• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.244-252
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• 2014

EOF (Empirical Orthogonal Function) analysis is applied to investigate the sand movement in Hujeong Beach. For the analysis, the profile data which were observed five times from June 2009 to May 2010 along the 13 baselines were used. To secure the temporal and physical consistency among the 13 profile data, the 13 profile data were combined into one data and using this data the EOF analysis was performed. According to the analysis, the first EOF is related with the mean topography and the second EOF represents the natural variation of sediment migration and the third EOF is related with the along-shore sediment transport arising from storm. The remaining EOFs show no special relation with wave conditions. In conclusion the main factors which are having great effects on Hujeong Beach's sand movement are analyzed as natural variation and along-shore sediment transport owing the wave conditions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.206-216
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• 2017

The temporal distribution of the turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) and the vertical component of Reynolds stresses ($-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$) was measured during one wave period under high wave energy conditions. The wave data were obtained at Hujeong Beach in the east coast of Korea at January 14~18 of 2017 when an extratropical cyclone was developed in the East Sea. Among the whole thousands of waves measured during the period, hundreds of regular waves that had with similar pattern were selected for the analysis in order to give three representing mean wave patterns using the ensemble average technique. The turbulence properties were then estimated based on the selected wave data. It is interesting to find out that $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ has one clear peak near the time of flow reversal while TKE has two peaks at the corresponding times of maximum cross-shore velocity magnitudes. The distinguished pattern of Reynolds stress indicates that vertical fluxes of such properties as suspended sediments may be enhanced at the time when the horizontal flow direction is reversed to disturb the flows, supporting the turbulence convection process proposed by Nielsen (1992). The characteristic patterns of turbulence properties are examined using the CADMAS-SURF Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model. Although the model can reasonably simulate the distribution of TKE pattern, it fails to produce the $-{\bar{u^{\prime}w^{\prime}}}$ peak at the time of flow reversal, which indicates that the application of RANS model is limited in the prediction of some turbulence properties such as Reynolds stresses.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.561-568
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• 2020

Wave measurements using X-band radar have many advantages compared to other wave gauges including wave-rider buoy, P-u-v gauge and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), etc.. For example, radar system has no risk of loss/damage in bad weather conditions, low maintenance cost, and provides spatial distribution of waves from deep to shallow water. This paper presents new methods for estimating significant wave heights of X-band marine radar images using Artificial Neural Network (ANN). We compared the time series of estimated significant wave heights (Hs) using various estimation methods, such as signal-to-noise ratio (${\sqrt{SNR}}$), both and ${\sqrt{SNR}}$ the peak period (TP), and ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k). The estimated significant wave heights of the X-band images were compared with wave measurement using ADCP(AWC: Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler) at Hujeong Beach, Uljin, Korea. Estimation of Hs using ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k) yields best result.