• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

The purposes of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design by focusing on the period from 2000 to 2010 and to find out the development direction of the next makeup design. This study considered formative theory to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design of $Marian$ $L.$ $Davis$ and $Marilyn$ $R.$ $Delong's$ theory, and analyzed the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design in an aspect of line and form, color and material, The results are as follows: First, the shapes of the artistic eye-makeup such as tear drops, and rectangular paisleys were similar with the form of clothes such as the hourglass, cylinders and mix-types. Second, monotonic color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination that induced complex contrast coordination were apparent as well. Third, the objects of the artistic eye-makeup such as glitter papers, spangles and beads had similar features as the material of clothes such as silk and spangle, and contrast was partially used like colors. The results suggest that artistic eye-makeup and clothes have an organic relationship, and artistic eye-makeup is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• Phonetics and Speech Sciences
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.99-106
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• 2017

Clinical data about vocal nodules have seldom been reported, even though vocal nodules are commonly diagnosed in outpatient speech and voice clinic. This study aims to investigate clinical characteristics of the patients who are diagnosed with vocal nodules. This study analyzed the data for 10 years from the 319 patients diagnosed with vocal nodules (45 males and 274 females with the mean age of 39.4 ranging from 2 to 83) in terms of gender, age, occupation, voice change initiation pattern, change with time, throat clearing, smoking history, type of voice abuse, acoustic analysis, maximum phonation time, GRBAS, and VHI. Thirteen patients (4.08%) had unilateral vocal nodule and 306 patients (95.9%) had bilateral vocal nodule, the majority of which had a pattern of asymmetry (73.9%). The glottal closure pattern was hourglass in 72.1% of patients, posterior chink in 17.9% of patients, and irregular in 7.9% of patients. The most common occupational category was professional voice users (43.4%). The voice abuse pattern included excessive talking in 96 patients (76.8%), loud voice in 78 (62.4%) patients, and excessive singing in 17 patients (21.6%). The patients showed worse scores in G, B, and S than in R and A for the GRBAS evaluation. The most recommended treatment for vocal nodules was voice therapy. The current clinical data will be helpful for treatment planning for the patients of vocal nodule.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.66-77
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• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.81-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to inquire original design and character of dancheong in Yeongnamnu P avilion which features unusual portraits of twisting dragons and four heavenly creatures. Its artistic value and originality can be found in the portraits of four heavenly creatures which are painted on the interior seonjayeon(fan shape rafter) and in the unique design of crossbeam meoricho(flower decorations on each side of pillars). Yeongnamnu's crossbeam meoricho is janggu-meoricho type(meoricho with hourglass figure) with full-shape lotus and half-shape flower decorations. And it can be said that, dragon portrait painted on the border of lotus and flower decorations in green and yellow is a very unique style of dancheong, for the reason that it has scarcely been used before and ever since. The portrait of four heavenly creatures painted on each corner of seonjayeon is also found to be unique in design, for the reason that the design has rarely been used throughout history, with only two exceptions in mural tombs of Goguryeo and folding screen in Injeongjeon Hall of Changdeokgung P alace. With its unique and authentic feature along with its rarity in number, the portrait of four heavenly creatures painted on Yeongnamnu can be considered as quite symbolic and important.

• Interaction and multiscale mechanics
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.173-195
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• 2013

Meshfree methods are known to have the capability to overcome the strict regularization requirements and numerical instabilities that encumber the finite element method (FEM) in large deformation problems. They are also more naturally suited for problems involving material perforation and fragmentation. To take advantage of the high efficiency of FEM and high accuracy of meshfree methods, a coupled finite element (FE) and reproducing kernel (RK, one of the meshfree approximations) formulation is described in this paper. The coupling of FE and RK approximation is implemented in an evolutionary fashion, where the extent and location of the evolution is dependent on a triggering criteria provided by the material constitutive laws. To enhance computational efficiency, Gauss quadrature is applied to integrate both FE and RK domains so that no state variable transfer is required when mesh conversion is performed. To control the hourglassing that might occur with 1-point integrated hexahedral grids, viscous type hourglass control is implemented. Meanwhile, the FEM version of the K&C concrete (KCC) model was modified to make it applicable in both FE and RK formulations. Results using this code and the KCC model are shown for the modeling of concrete responses under quasi-static, blast and impact loadings. These analyses demonstrate that fragmentation phenomena of the sort commonly observed under blast and impact loadings of concrete structures was able to be realistically captured by the coupled formulation.