• Title/Summary/Keyword: Horse Riding

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The Symbolic Meanings of Louis XVI's Costumes in the Portraits

  • Kim, Ju-Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.12
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    • pp.1409-1417
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    • 2011
  • This study examines King Louis XVI costumes and his portraits according to symbolic meanings. This study analysis of costumes comes from portraits related various domestic and overseas literature, preliminary study papers, and web sites. Omnipotence, activity, nobility, openness and benevolence were distinguished in the symbolic meaning expressed in the portraits of King Louis XVI. Louis XVI in a portrait was drawn with god or expressed as a martyr and symbolically showed the omnipotence of god. Louis XVI was symbolized as almighty god by maximizing the authority and dignity of the king through the hands of justice that were used as a background or portrait accessory and a costume with the symbol of House of Bourbon. Kings of many generations were expressed as authoritative through portraits. However, Louis XVI showed a proletarian aspect in ordering portraits to reflect the daily working image of communicating with citizens. Active images such as the king riding a horse or administering the state affairs were emphasized in a political and military perspective; in addition, the benevolence of the king was symbolically presented through a family portrait. This symbolically signified that the king is a warm-hearted person who passionately takes care of state affairs and loves the people through a noble element coming from pastel colors and attributes of red colors. Historically, the political incompetence and indifference of kings was fragmentally emphasized; however, these portraits considered the king as one who tried to fulfill duties as the true king with a great interest in politics and the people.

A Study on the Costumes of the Terracotta Warriors at the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang (진시황릉(秦始皇陵) 출토(出土) 병용(兵俑)의 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究) -호복(胡服)과의 관련성을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, So-Hyeon;Cho, Kyu-Wha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 1993
  • This study intends to find out the correspondence of the costumes of the terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Shi Huang to the dress of nomadic people. The Chinese took the dress of nomadic people into their costumes so that they might practise shooting arrows from horse back in the Age Of Wars. The terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Sin Huang provide us with substantial evidence that Qin Dynasty inherited the system of wearing the dress of nomadic people from Zhao. Figures of calvarys wear the jackets of nomadic people, but figures of other warriors wear Han jackets. This means that the aim of taking the dress of nomadic people is to be convenient in practising shooting arrows from horse back. Nomadic people adjusted their jackets to left, because they road on a horse from left for being the tunga only on the left. But calvarys adjusted their jackets to right. In those days, China didn't have a tunga. So there was no necessity for riding from left. And Chinese were accustomed to adjusted their jackets to right. This is the reason why calvarys adjusted their jackets to right, though they wear the dress of nomadic people. Soldiers wear trousers. Some have puttee, some have their leg bounds. All the soldiers tightened their coats or jackets with belts which were inhereted from nomadic people. They wear either shoes or short boots. The figures are classified according to rank, espicially in their hats and armours. General wears a cap adorned with pheasant' feathers, officer wears an unadorned cap, and men are hatless or in turbans. Calvary's headgear looks like a p'ing-chin-tse which was correspondence to the headgear of nomadic people. Soldiers wear armours according to duty, and armours are differentiated by rank. From the state of terracotta warriors, I think that the warriors were made from BC 246 to BC 210 which is equal to the date of making the tomb of Qin Shi Huang. Then the date of making the terracotta warriors was between 60 and 100 years since the king Wu Ling of the state of Zhao took the dress of nomadic people.

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The Comparative Study of Costume and Ornaments between Shilla and Uighur (신라복식과 위구르복식의 관계 연구)

  • 한윤숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.24
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 1995
  • This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

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The Clinical Study on 40 Cases of Patient with Chronic Prostatitis (만성전립선염환자(慢性前立腺炎患者) 40예(例)에 대(對)한 임상적(臨床的) 고찰(考察))

  • Cho, Chung Sik;Kim, Chul Jung
    • Journal of Haehwa Medicine
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.245-257
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    • 2000
  • A clinical study was done 40 patients of chronic prostatitis who was treated in Dept. of Internal Medicine, Oriental Medicine Hospital, Taejon University, from 1 Mar. 1999 to 31 Oct. 1999. The results were as follows. 1. In distribution of age, 30's and 40's were 57.5% the most, 20's and 60's were 35.0%, 50's was 7.5%. 2. In distribution of past history, the urethritis(45.0%) was the most. 3. In distribution of ocupation, a white-collar worker was 35.0%, a business man was 22.5%, a public servant was 12.5%, etc. 4. Sitting the mean time of day were distributed 5~7 hours, above 7 hours, 3~5 hours, under 3 hours, etc. 5. The resting interval of a long distance drive were distributed 2 hours(35.0%), 3 hours(32.5%), etc. 6. The habit of enduring ejaculation during sexual intercourse was showed 45.0%. 7. The habit of enduring urination was showed 20.0%. 8. Influency of mental stress was showed 90.0%. 9. Ten cases(25.0%) were showed riding horse or riding bicycle. 10. Four cases(10.0%) were showed wearing tight trousers. 11. The habit of put a wallet his hip pocket was showed 57.5%. 12. The most common symptom was distributed the others symp-tom(66.8%) and the voiding symptom(63.3%) more than pain-neuro-logical symptom(37.5%) and symptom related with sexual function (26.6%). 13. In distribution of palpation, lower abdominal pain, lumbar pain, perineal or parascrotal pain were mostly showed right side. Moreover diagnosis of pulsation was weakly showed chi pulse of right. 14. Duration of disease were distributed above 1 year(82.5%), under 1 year(17.5%). Degree of prostatitis was severe showed adove 1 year. 15. The distribution of WBC count of the prostatic secretion, com-paring with before therapy and after therapy, were showed from 5 cases to 0 case in very many/HPF, from 23 cases to 13 cases in many/HPF, from 12 cases to 13 cases in 10~30/HPF, from 0 case to 13 cases in under 10/HPF. 16. Therapeutic improvement of symptom were distributed pain-neurological symptom(94.8%), the others symptom(90.8%), the void-ing symptom(89.6%) and symptom related with sexual function(67.5%). 17. Differentiation of symptoms and signs were distributed dificiency of spleen-lung vital energy, wetness-heat of lower warmer, dificiency of spleen-kidney yang, dificiency of kidney yin, wetness-phlegm, dificiency of vital energy and blood. The prescriptions were Bojungikgitang(44.6%), Yukmijihwangtang(20.7%), Palmijihwangtang(12.0%), etc.

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Fashion Design Study on Korean Traditional Image Suitable for Ramie Fabric(I) - The Application of Aesthetic Property of Goguryeo Era Clothing - (모시 소재에 적합한 한국적 이미지의 의상디자인 개발에 대한 연구(제1보) - 고구려 시대 복식의 미적 특징을 적용하여 -)

  • Lee, Mi-Yeon;Lee, Kun-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.130-144
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    • 2008
  • A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

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A Study of the 'Hobokko' (I) (호복고 독해 연구(1))

  • Park, Chun-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.60-75
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    • 2008
  • A history of Chinese Costume is that of the accept and the struggle between the 'Shen- Yi' of Han(漢) race and 'Ho-Bok' of foreign races. There are the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' in their representative documentary. They are quite significant materials for the researchers of the Oriental costume. The purpose of this study about comparing and analyzing the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' give a guidance to Chinese costume's researchers. The results of study are as follows: The 'Shen-Yi', having made a dress joined an upper to the low clothing together(上衣下裳) and deeply covered the parts of all the bodies, was named, had appeared the Spring-Autumn & warring state period(春秋戰國時代) and later the former Han Dynasty(前漢). Not only everyone in spite of men and women, without distinction of rank, high and low alike but also even the court dress(朝服) and from latter Han Dynasty(後漢) only the housewives could have worn it. The 'Shen- Yi Ko' disappeared its records and remains and at present nothing leave behind. The 'Ho-Bok' is a costume of the nomadic horse-riding people among the foreign races, then influenced upon the Chinese costume. The style of the Chinese costume consists of 'Yi Sang'(衣裳) and the 'Ho-bok' of foreign races, 'Yi Ko'(衣袴). The 'Yi Ko'((衣袴), derived from the King Muryoung of Cho Dynasty, had greatly been changed the chinese men's clothing and After that 'Ko Sup'(袴褶). The Chinese have enjoyably and familiarly the accepted 'Ho Bok' for a long time.

The Evaluation on Functionality with Material-improved Working Uniform of Construction Field (소재개선에 따른 건설현장 작업복 착의기능성 평가)

  • Kim, Seong-Suk;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.228-235
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the functionality with material-improved working uniform(protocol, P) and current working uniform(control, C). Movement functionality evaluation of material-improved working uniform was carried out through sensory evaluation of working uniform. And Oxygen uptake was explored to different working uniform(P, C) in relation to a physiological functionality measurement. The results have been shown as follows: It was found that the workers feel uncomfortable with the parts of the wrist, the back width, the shoulder seam and the side in the current working uniform when they move their arms up and down, but the inconvenience has been reduced in the material-improved working uniform. And It was found that the workers feel uncomfortable with the parts of the back width, the wrist and the side seam of the jacket, and the waist, the hips and the thigh of the trousers in the current working uniform when they move their waist, but the inconvenience has been reduced in the material-improved working uniform. In the current working uniform, it was also found that they feel uncomfortable with the parts of the horse riding position in which they stand straight in their slightly bended knees, with the parts of the hips, the side seam, the thigh and the knees when they crouch down, and with the parts of the hips and the thigh when they put one of their legs onto a higher place. However, the inconvenience was reduced in the material-improved working uniform. Oxygen uptake, which was measured to assess physiological dressing functionality, was found to be higher when people work in an uncomfortable uniform than when they work in a uniform of better functionality by an increase in metabolic rate, which can be a cause of workers' inefficiency of fatigue.

Estimation of genetic parameters for temperament in Jeju crossbred horses

  • Kim, Nam Young;Son, Jun Kyu;Cho, In Cheol;Shin, Sang Min;Park, Seol Hwa;Seong, Pil Nam;Woo, Jae Hoon;Park, Nam Geon;Park, Hee Bok
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • v.31 no.8
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    • pp.1098-1102
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    • 2018
  • Objective: Temperament can be defined as a type of behavioral tendency that appears in a relatively stable manner in responses to various external stimuli over time. The aim of this study was to estimate genetic parameters for the records of temperament testing that are used to improve the temperament of Jeju crossbred (Jeju${\times}$Thoroughbred) horses. Methods: This study was conducted using 205 horses (101 females and 104 males) produced between 2010 and 2015. The experimental animals were imprinted and tamed according to the Manual for Horse Taming and Evaluation for Therapeutic Riding Horses and evaluated according to the categories for temperament testing (gentleness, patience, aggressiveness, sensitivity, and friendliness) between 15 months and 18 months of age. Each category was scored on a five-point linear scale. Genetic parameters for the test categories were analyzed using a multi-trait mixed model with repeated records. The ASReml program was used to analyze the data. Results: The heritability of gentleness, patience, aggressiveness, sensitivity and friendliness ranged from 0.08 to 0.53. The standard errors of estimated heritability ranged from 0.13 to 0.17. The test categories showed high genetic correlations with each other, ranging from 0.96 to 0.99 and high repeatability, ranging from 0.70 to 0.73. Conclusion: The results of this study showed that the test categories had moderate heritability and high genetic correlations, but additional studies may be necessary to use the results for the improvement programs of the temperament of Jeju crossbred horses.

A Study on the Difference between the Roots of (K)Hanbok and Hanfu (한복과 한푸의 차이점 분석에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Jisu;Na, Youngjoo
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.273-287
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    • 2022
  • (K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century- (동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Cho, Sun-Hee;Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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