• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.160-168
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• 2010

This paper examines a particular period in Japanese history. when clothing was systemically changed through government policy. It demonstrates the complex relationships between an Eastern nation and a Western clothing system. It also explores the complexity of roles which clothing plays in society, clothing which brands a nation as masculine, but which resists the discourses of modernity, which were found on native clothing. It demonstrates that native, Japanese clothing has always been developing to meet the needs of its wearers, according to technology, sumptuary laws and prevailing tastes, and therefore that fashion is not any more a product of Europe than it is of the East. It reveals the Japanese fashion system as a complex and multi-dimensional one, about surface design rather than change in shape, bur also being about inner and deep surfaces as well as outer surfaces for public presentation, and thus being a carrier for private as well as public discourses. This examination also demonstrates that whilst fashion may be intimately bound up with the forces of society and also politics, it is also a force which resists outside control, and develops because of the signification with which the embodied wearers endow it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.85-96
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• 2000

The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.458-484
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• 2001

The costume originated from the idea that it could protect human beings from ferocious beasts. The military costume was from protection against an enemy equipped with weapons. Furthermore, the makers of the costume were afraid of supernatural powers and it made them devise an armour and decorate it by the concept of superstition for the purpose of overcoming it. The function of military uniform was important for increasing the protection against any enemies while they join in battle. However in harmonious time, it represented artwork of peace, dignity, and order. Since the uniform was a king of symbol to show their position, and their role. They could feel proud as a member of a military group they belong to and they gain honor, courage, patriotic sentiment through their military costume. The purpose of this study was to investigate the originality the military costume as it changed and developed continuously from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome to modern times. This study was performed to show the comparison and characteristic marks of the past, and the influence of them on the modern military uniform. The method used in this study was using past manuscripts of the early times, information attained from domestic and foreign military documents and previously written reports. As a result, the military costume was one of many means of expression of their natural and social environment. It can be said that the most epoche-marking and powerful changes to the social environment are revolution or war. War absolutely has influenced on the changes of the changes of costume and the military armour according to the type of war and the development of weapons. Especially using the amour, the main purpose that of protecting the body has changed into distinguishing our forces from the enemy and instilling fear into enemy, Furthermore, the class who has the power has used it in order to express their power and dignity. Therefore, armour had required two rules to not only protect the body but also discriminating between classes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.361-379
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find how hybrid fashion and make-up responses to multiculturalism condition and how expression of hybrid. Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance. In accordance with this current of the times, this study observed the hybrid found in the multiculturalism of the 21th century. The expression of hybrid in multiculturalism of contemporary fashion and make up combination of difference. Second, the society development and a generalized knowledge of multiculturalism and hybrid and history of make up. Third, characteristic of fashion about multiculturalism and characteristic of fashion about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid. Fourth, characteristic of make up about multiculturalism and characteristic of make up about hybrid classify a divide into five according to fashion trend. Oriental and western of hybrid, the past and the present of hybrid, high society and the lower classes of hybrid, the main current and non mainstreamers of hybrid, the present and the future of hybrid take measures too.