• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to explicate the contemporary concept of the term 'sportswear' by studying the history of sportswear tradition in America where sportswear was first established and developed. American sportswear originated from some functional clothes made for specific sports during the 19th century. Early in 20th century, there occurred many significant events in America while Americans were undergoing two successive world wars. First of all, due to the wars, women's role in labor force became so significant that their social status was enhanced remarkably. With economy growing every decade, the amount of leisure time for American people substantially increased and, therefore they could develop their leisure activity culture. All these changes made Americans demand the need for comfortable and functional clothes suitable for their changed way of life. In response to this demand, the sportswear tradition became mature due to the contribution by many creative All-American designers, most of whom have made their active contributions since 1970s. Now the sportswear, which used to be designed for specific sports, developed into casual wear in general with its extended definition. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for specific sports. Sportswear has now become more like a casual activity wear which all classes of people can enjoy in their life. Since the concept and scope of sportswear is extended to a great degree today, we need a new professional term to correctly express the extended nature of these contemporary clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.776-787
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors which have formed gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. For this purpose, the images of gender in fashion were analyzed and historical studies about gender images in men's fashion from the middle of the 19th century to the present days were done. Historically images of gender expressed in fashion were masculine image feminine image androgynous image and genderless image. Among those images masculine image and genderless image. Among those image masculine image and androgynous image have been the gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. In psychoanalytic view point the factors which have formed the gender images are related with sexual pleasure. Libido for looking narcissism and exhibitionism have produced masculine image and androgynous image in men's fashion, In socioeconomic view point power structure between the sexes have built the gender images in fashion. Masculine image and androgynous image came in to being in men's fashion for the purpose of displaying power or expressing opposition to power structure between the sexes, In aesthetic view point the aesthetic sense of each age about sex have constructed the gender images. Modernism had influence on building masculine image and post-modernism have formed androgynous image in men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.649-661
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the inner meaning and outer from of the uniform from a historical perspective. As a research method, this study investigated the significance of the meaning and farm of the uniform in history with a focus on the classification suggested by a Japanese scholar, Okuhira Sitse, and analyzed them by design elements. In the theoretical study, the uniform was divided into formal, working and collective uniforms according to the purpose of wear. As results, the plasticity of the uniform was analyzed as the concept involving: authority representing the power and influence within the organization as a inner moaning; differentiation from the rest by expressing the culture and ideology within the organization; cohesiveness among the wearers as members of the specific organization and the binding nature in effect; reliable images to customers due to the appropriate form of dress related to the specific business and controlled self expression; and aesthetics characterizing a given era as a form of aesthetic pursuit. The elements of these inner meanings were translated to the outer form of functional practicality and simplified design, which appeared as the simplified' suit' in a female uniform in workplaces.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.635-654
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• 2012

This paper studied sports-inspired fashion(SIF) that is often characterized as 'designer clothes inspired by active sportswear.' First, we reviewed the social, economical, artistic, and technological background behind its development. Second, we studied the development history of SIF by classifying it into four periods. Third, we analyzed how SIF emerged and developed with its own characteristics from a historical perspective. For a theoretical background, we did a critical review of previous literature in the field of clothing history, history of culture, and art history. We collected the data from magazines, such as Fashion Show and Gap Press and from the internet sources as well, such as firstviewkorea.com. We also did the content analysis of the data by consulting a chosen group of fashion designers. This study revealed that active sportswear started to develop from everyday clothes for functional convenience in the beginning and then SIF emerged later as a major fashion trend with the popularity of sportive look. This trend became stronger with the global spread of American popular culture. SIF eventually became high fashion with collaboration between sportswear industry and designers. This study confirmed that SIF reflects the characteristics of many sports games in silhouettes, colors, and details. It is predicted that sports will continue to be an important source of inspiration for fashion designers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.17-33
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to find the character of Cleopatra (69 B.C-30 B.C) by analyzing materials about Cleopatra, and to figure out symbolism and costume presented in movie . Costume of the main character, Cleopatra, compound the type of Egyptian traditional clothes, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. And, the symbolic meaning of it is also reinforced by adding ancient Egyptian myth to it. This kind of symbol is usually represented in Cleopatra clothing, especially in weaving pattern, embroidery, and ornament. And color of the clothes not only have their on predominance, but also can have their meaning fade away by mixed with each other, and also the shape has relation with the meaning of color. To sum up, the color and pattern of ancint Egyptian Cleopatra as alive formalize the power that come from coherence with the sun god in the center, which a used to maintain the power of the king. Costume in movie also contained color and pattern as a symbol of religion to symbolize the absolute power of king. These kinds of symbols are reemerging through historical recurrences and exotic interests.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.177-183
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• 1978

Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.273-294
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• 2020

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers' works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.303-316
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• 2006

The present study deals with developing a new modem design of quilt which is characteristic of Korean traditional patterns. The goal of this study is to make some samples of the pattern as a basic motive of quilt work by using some Korean traditional patterns that could be found in roof tiles, windows, Neung-Hwa (a kind of wood cut for printing book covers), and others. This study examines the concept of quilts, their historical background, and their characteristics. This study also examines traditional patterns that are applicable to the patchy work of quilt, discussing the characteristic of both the Korean patterns and Nubi (Korean traditional quilt). In the process of pattern development, the original patterns were simplified and transformed to apply them to the modem quilt pattern. Fabrics (100% cotton) of similar colors were used to emphasize quilting lines. This study has found followings; 1) The geometric pattern usually consists of dots, lines, and faces. These patterns are suitable for pieced quilts. 2) The curvilinear pattern found in roof tiles or Yi-Dynasty coins, can be easily re-expressed by the applique technique. Combinations of fabrics and motive compositions can express quilts in realistic and creative ways. 3) Addition of Korean traditional quilt techniques, such as parallel lines or swastika stitches, to the traditional object-derived quilt patterns led to the creation of images close to the already existing Korean quilt, Nubi.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.