• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.211-222
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• 2004

During the 1980s, Textile design achieved a remarkable growth in creating aesthetic effect and in establishing its standing by responding to demands of the time effectively and seeking changes proactively. This was a period when Textile design constructed its modern concept as it was attempting a qualitative improvement through advanced technology, high class, and differentiation. The advent of advanced materials through the development of textile engineering, employment of craft techniques to further cultural and artistic orientation, and restoration of decorativeness in pursuit of sensitivity, all these developments of the 1980s contributed to the rise of above characteristics. In this study, attempts are made to grasp the new trend of Textile design during the 1980s and to review diverse methods of aesthetic creation and plastic possibility which this trend presented for the Textile, and thus to recognize the role of Textile design and its importance in a new light. The new trend of Textile design during the 1980s can be summarized as follows: 1) An appreciation of the creative aspect of the Textile. As attempts are made to emphasize visual and sensitive aspects of the medium, Textile tended to become an object of art itself. 2) A new awareness of the representative and plastic capacity of the fiber material. As attempts are made to develope the creative potential of the Textile, representation of the material tended to become more diversified. 3) A recognition of the Textile as a proper means to deliver the spirit of the time. As the medium accommodates and fuses diverse cultures including traditional culture, more emphasis was place on cultural contents of the Textile. In the process of pursuing these changes, Textile design of the 1980s has also contributed to the creation of new values, laying the groundwork for its emergence as an advanced high value-added industry.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.19-31
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• 2019

To study the cleaning effects and post-treatment stability assessment of various methods of cleaning textiles with metal thread, six naturally-soiled historical textiles with metal thread were investigated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Prior to the cleaning of fabricated gold, silver, and copper thread that had been glued onto a paper substrate, the artificial deterioration was carried out in a controlled environment with light(UV and daylight), and temperature and humidity factors which would weaken and damage the samples. A synthetic soil mixture was applied to the samples to imitate soil found on the historic and archaeological textiles with metal thread; the cleaning effect and post-treatment assessment were investigated by use of three textile cleaning methods: mechanical cleaning, wet cleaning, and solvent cleaning. While investigating the naturally-soiled textiles with metal thread, it was determined that the soil colors and sizes of contaminating particles of each textile were different due to the diversity of original environmental factors and conditions. After cleaning with kneaded rubber, Stoddard solvent, n-decane or n-hexane, a bright, clean effect was apparent. Kneaded rubber was successful in picking up both large and small particles, but its stickiness caused some of the metal leaf to peel off. Stoddard solvent produced a good cleaning effect, but after use of n-hexane and n-decane in the cleaning process, a white layer of residue remained on the textile's surface. Wet cleaning was not effective and the rapid humidity changes between wet and dry conditions caused the edges of the paper substrate to lose their original shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.394-400
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical background which uses and characteristics of Korean traditional incense and how to use it in clothes. Incense was at first introduced to Korea in the period of King Nulji of Shilla dynasty. First introduction to this nation, incense was already regarded as divine. It was then developed with five main uses, tribute, fragrance, purification, anti bacteria, and cure. Incense used by fragrance and anti-bacteria in clothes. It make emit a fragrance from the clothes or decorate clothes with ornaments. Incense was also to prevent clothes or books from being damaged by insects and maintain them over a long period. It used one of the factor for beauty of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.39-52
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• 2005

This paper is to study about paisley shawl and paisley motif to focus on Kashmir shawl. Kashmir shawl and paisley shawl of Europe can be identified by the use of 'pine cone' motif. Early 19th Europe textile manufactures began imitating the Kashmir shawl, the motif began to be called 'paisley', after Paisley, Scotland, one of the largest producers of imitation Karshmir shawls. This study is to analyze on origin of shawl and paisley motif at the theoretical background. And main issues are to study on organization of the Kashmir shawl indusry, weaving technic and producing process, development of motif, change of size and border design of shawl, difference of Woven Kashmir shawl, Patchwork shawl and hml shawl, causes of decline to shawl industry, differences of between Kashmir and European shawl etc. The result of this study can help to understand correct and accurate information, knowledge of paisley motif and paisley shawl.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to find out the type of fashion codes hip-hop fashion has in contemporary Chinese fashion, and the frequency and characteristics of each fashion code. Text mining, which is the most basic analysis method in big data analyticswas used rather than traditional design element analysis. Specific results were as follows. First, hip-hop initially entered China in the late 1970s. The most historical turning point was the American film "Breakin". Second, frequency and word cloud analysis results showed that the "national tide" fashion code was the most notable code. Third, through word embedding analysis, fashion codes were divided into types of "original hip-hop codes", "trendy hip-hop codes", and "hip-hop codes grafted with traditional Chinese culture".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to guide the research direction for securing the competitiveness of the textile industry by analyzing the trends of patent technology development for flexible materials and platform technologies of domestic and overseas textiles used for wearable devices. The study is based on patents from Korea (KIPO), USA (USPTO), Japan (JPO), Europe (EPO), PCT (WO), and China (SIPO), which were registered as of December 31, 2017. The analysis utilized 3,643 patents acquired from the WINTELIPS search DB. The technology classification system for patent analysis was divided into evangelist-based textile technology developments: human body (AA), fiber attachment patch development (AB), and service platform development (AC). The analysis findings are as follows: 1. The development of flexible materials and platform technologies for textile-based wearable devices has increased since 2000. In particular, China (SIPO) had the most patents. 2. In China, Japan, and Korea, most patent applicants are applied for by natives, but the US has a high proportion of foreigners applying for patents. 3. As for the amount of development of the evangelist-based textile technology (AA) was the most common with 1,203 (33%) cases. As a result of the above IP historical analysis, it can be seen that as a result of the global competition, domestic companies need to acquire IRP and standard technology, and promote commercialization by applying their products to smart wearables devices and other products.