• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.211-222
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• 2004

1980년대는 전 세계적으로 직물디자인이 다양한 시대적 요구에 부응하여 적극적으로 변화를 추구함으로서 미적 효과 창출에 있어서나 위상 정립에 있어 괄목할 만한 성장을 이룬 시기였다. 이 시기는 섬유 공학기술 발달에 의한 첨단 소재의 등장, 예술${\cdot}$문화 지향에 의한 공예기법의 구사, 감성추구에 의한 장식성의 부활에 의해 직물디자인이 첨단화, 고급화, 차별화의 질적 향상을 도모함으로서 직물디자인의 현대적 개념을 구축하였다. 본 연구는 80년대 전개된 직물디자인의 새로운 흐름을 파악하고, 이러한 새로운 경향이 제시한 직물의 다양한 미적 창출방법과 조형 가능성을 고찰함으로서 직물디자인의 역할과 중요성을 인식하고자 하였다. 본 연구는 다음과 같이 요약된다. 1) 80년대는 직물의 창조적인 면을 중시함으로서 직물에 시각적이고 감각적인 측면을 부각시키는 다양한 시도로 직물의 예술화 경향이 대두되었고 2) 80년대는 섬유 소재의 표현성 및 조형성에 대한 새로운 인식으로 다양한 창조가능성을 개발함으로서 소재표현의 다양화를 시도하였으며 3) 80년대에는 직물이 시대정신을 전달하는 적합한 수단으로 이해되어 전통문화를 비롯한 다양한 문화에 대한 수용과 융합으로 직물에 문화적 내용을 강조하게 되었다. 이와같이 80년대는 직물디자인이 다양한 변화를 추구함으로서 직물의 가치 창출에 기여하였으며, 아울러 고부가가치 산업으로 확대시켜 나갈 수 있는 첨단 산업의 한 분야로 인식되게 되었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.19-31
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• 2019

To study the cleaning effects and post-treatment stability assessment of various methods of cleaning textiles with metal thread, six naturally-soiled historical textiles with metal thread were investigated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Prior to the cleaning of fabricated gold, silver, and copper thread that had been glued onto a paper substrate, the artificial deterioration was carried out in a controlled environment with light(UV and daylight), and temperature and humidity factors which would weaken and damage the samples. A synthetic soil mixture was applied to the samples to imitate soil found on the historic and archaeological textiles with metal thread; the cleaning effect and post-treatment assessment were investigated by use of three textile cleaning methods: mechanical cleaning, wet cleaning, and solvent cleaning. While investigating the naturally-soiled textiles with metal thread, it was determined that the soil colors and sizes of contaminating particles of each textile were different due to the diversity of original environmental factors and conditions. After cleaning with kneaded rubber, Stoddard solvent, n-decane or n-hexane, a bright, clean effect was apparent. Kneaded rubber was successful in picking up both large and small particles, but its stickiness caused some of the metal leaf to peel off. Stoddard solvent produced a good cleaning effect, but after use of n-hexane and n-decane in the cleaning process, a white layer of residue remained on the textile's surface. Wet cleaning was not effective and the rapid humidity changes between wet and dry conditions caused the edges of the paper substrate to lose their original shape.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.394-400
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical background which uses and characteristics of Korean traditional incense and how to use it in clothes. Incense was at first introduced to Korea in the period of King Nulji of Shilla dynasty. First introduction to this nation, incense was already regarded as divine. It was then developed with five main uses, tribute, fragrance, purification, anti bacteria, and cure. Incense used by fragrance and anti-bacteria in clothes. It make emit a fragrance from the clothes or decorate clothes with ornaments. Incense was also to prevent clothes or books from being damaged by insects and maintain them over a long period. It used one of the factor for beauty of costume.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2005

This paper is to study about paisley shawl and paisley motif to focus on Kashmir shawl. Kashmir shawl and paisley shawl of Europe can be identified by the use of 'pine cone' motif. Early 19th Europe textile manufactures began imitating the Kashmir shawl, the motif began to be called 'paisley', after Paisley, Scotland, one of the largest producers of imitation Karshmir shawls. This study is to analyze on origin of shawl and paisley motif at the theoretical background. And main issues are to study on organization of the Kashmir shawl indusry, weaving technic and producing process, development of motif, change of size and border design of shawl, difference of Woven Kashmir shawl, Patchwork shawl and hml shawl, causes of decline to shawl industry, differences of between Kashmir and European shawl etc. The result of this study can help to understand correct and accurate information, knowledge of paisley motif and paisley shawl.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to find out the type of fashion codes hip-hop fashion has in contemporary Chinese fashion, and the frequency and characteristics of each fashion code. Text mining, which is the most basic analysis method in big data analyticswas used rather than traditional design element analysis. Specific results were as follows. First, hip-hop initially entered China in the late 1970s. The most historical turning point was the American film "Breakin". Second, frequency and word cloud analysis results showed that the "national tide" fashion code was the most notable code. Third, through word embedding analysis, fashion codes were divided into types of "original hip-hop codes", "trendy hip-hop codes", and "hip-hop codes grafted with traditional Chinese culture".

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to guide the research direction for securing the competitiveness of the textile industry by analyzing the trends of patent technology development for flexible materials and platform technologies of domestic and overseas textiles used for wearable devices. The study is based on patents from Korea (KIPO), USA (USPTO), Japan (JPO), Europe (EPO), PCT (WO), and China (SIPO), which were registered as of December 31, 2017. The analysis utilized 3,643 patents acquired from the WINTELIPS search DB. The technology classification system for patent analysis was divided into evangelist-based textile technology developments: human body (AA), fiber attachment patch development (AB), and service platform development (AC). The analysis findings are as follows: 1. The development of flexible materials and platform technologies for textile-based wearable devices has increased since 2000. In particular, China (SIPO) had the most patents. 2. In China, Japan, and Korea, most patent applicants are applied for by natives, but the US has a high proportion of foreigners applying for patents. 3. As for the amount of development of the evangelist-based textile technology (AA) was the most common with 1,203 (33%) cases. As a result of the above IP historical analysis, it can be seen that as a result of the global competition, domestic companies need to acquire IRP and standard technology, and promote commercialization by applying their products to smart wearables devices and other products.