• Title/Summary/Keyword: Historical textile

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A Study on Vivienne Westwood Design (비비엔 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계 연구)

  • 방수란
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.129-141
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of historical costume style and painting on Vivienne Westwood design. For this purpose, the costume style after 16C and the rococo painting of 18C are researched. And through Westwood's recent designs, the external form and internal symbol are compared. The results of this study were as follows : 1. From Renaissance, Rococo, Crinoline, Bustle, S style were showed on Westwood design. 2. In external method, historical costume styles were expressed by silhouette, detail, costume item, textile and various cuttings. 3. In the case of painting, it focused on Rococo painting of 18C. Costumes in painting were realized or painting itself were used for textile. 4. Most of her design was cut in the round rather than in the flat, bold cutting and slash were employed. 5. These works are symbolizing the harmony of tradition and future, at the same time through the transformation of orthodox style, containing ridicule to the authority and a challenge to society as well as sex. These results let us know that Westwood is versatile to transform the history and harmonize the tradition and 20C Fashion successfully. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1):129∼141, 1999)

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A Study on Exposure Among Asbestos Textile Workers and Estimation of their Historical Exposures (석면방직업 근로자의 석면노출 실태와 과거농도 추정에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Jeong Im;Yoon, Chung Sik;Paik, Nam Won
    • Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.16-39
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    • 1995
  • From July 8 to September 2 1994, asbestos exposure level among asbestos textile workers was surveyed. Six plants out of plants in Korea were selected for this study. In addition to the exposure level, the relationship between the level of exposure and some factors affecting exposure were studied. Also, using historical data of asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plants plus current data, trend of asbestos exposure level could be introduced. Historical exposure level was estimated on the basis of these data. The main results of this study are follows. 1. Average concentration of all six plants surveyed was 1.54 f/cc, and range of those concentrations was 0.03 - 11.58 f/cc. The minimum average concentration was 0.32 f/cc and the maximum was 8.04 f/cc which is four times higher than the Korean standard. A wide difference of exposure level among the workers of different plants was observed. In three plants, the half of all the plants surveyed, their average concentrations exceeded the Korean standard, and those in all the plants exceeded the ACGIH TLV. 2. Among total 56 samples, 22 samples(39%) were in excess of the Korean standard, and 53 samples(95%) were above the ACGIH TLV. Among 32 personal samples, 15 samples(47%) exceeded the Korean standard, and 30 samples(94%) exceeded the ACGIH TLV. Among 24 area samples excluding a few samples collected in office area, seven samples exceeded the Korean standard, and 23 samples( 96%) exceeded the ACGIH TLV. 3. Distributions of concentrations were observed by processes. In weaving, the highest, average concentration was 4.29 f/cc, and range was 2.61 - 11.58 f/cc. In spinning, average concentration was 2.22 f/cc, and range was 0.41 - 8.93 f/cc. In carding, average concentration was 1.98 f/cc, and range was 0.23 - 10.93 f/cc, In twisting, average concentration was 1.65 f/cc, and range was 0.21 - 9.83 f/cc. In mixing, the lowest, average concentration was 0.48 f/cc, and range was 0.22 - 1.20 f/cc. 4. All the samples from basic processes of asbestos textile plants were above the ACGIH TLV. Nineteen samples(45%) out of all these 42 samples exceeded Korean standard. Fourteen samples(58%) of total 24 personal samples, and five samples(28%) of total 18 area samples exceeded the Korean standard. Considering processes, all the samples in weaving process exceeded the Korean standard and 50 did 54% of those in spinning, 40% in carding, and 27% in twisting. 5. Trend of decreasing asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plants was observed by time. 6. Asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plant in 1975 were estimated to be 11.0 - 92.4 f/cc.

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A Study on the Historical Characters and Textile Conservation of Mrs. Lee, Dan-ha's Wonsam (외제 이단하 부인 대예복(원삼)에 대한 연구)

  • Bai, Sang Kyoung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.5 no.2 s.6
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 1996
  • Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.

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한국전통 섬유제품의 발굴 I -수제품(Carpet, Rug)을 중심으로-

  • 민길자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.21-34
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    • 1992
  • A Research on specialty carpet(Rug) in ancient Kurea. Wool carpet culture takes an important part of ancient textile culture in ancient Korea. This research on specialty carpet culture of ancient Korea has been made form the view point of traditional textile history on the basis of historical documents and the collections.

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Contemporary Characteristics of Fashion-textile Design Applying Paisley Ornament (페이즐리 오너먼트를 활용한 패션텍스타일 디자인의 현대적 특징 연구)

  • Chung, Ha Jeong;Park, Juhee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.44 no.5
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    • pp.950-968
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    • 2020
  • This study derives the modern characteristics of the paisley ornament through an analysis of the paisley ornament shown in fashion since the 2010s based on a theoretical review of the paisley ornament used in Kashmir India shawls for artistic inspiration in the fashion-textile field. It classified the paisley ornament in fashion since the 2010s into types of 'basic structure of body and coif', 'abnormal paisley ornament shapes', 'complex structure of paisley ornament', 'complex structure with other motif', 'a pair of symmetrical reflection motif', 'regular of repetitive arrangement', 'complex arrangement of irregularity and regularity' and 'free arrangement of irregularity'. A comparative analysis with the historical paisley ornament shows that paisley ornaments have contemporary characteristics like 'Bisector structure of centerline in criterion of the body', 'Composite structure of extended 1-repeat', and 'Free structure of engineered placement'. A modern design was inspired by the historical art forms; however, it was used in free utilization of motifs and patterns in terms of size, direction, proportion and space. These were the expression of a design identity that originated from the aesthetic ability and career of a designer as well as the technology of computer programs for the improvements in time and cost efficiency.

Bleaching Treatment of Excavated Costumes and Inference of Missing Fabrics - Conservation Treatment of General Kim’s Costumes - (출토 의복의 표백과 유실된 직물의 추정 - 충장공 김덕령장군 의복(중요민속자료 111 호)의 보존처리 -)

  • Lee Mee-Sik;Hong Moom-Kyung;Bae Soon-Wha;Ahn Myung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.7 s.155
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    • pp.1160-1167
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    • 2006
  • The most ideal textile conservation is to block oxygen and light from historical textiles. However it is not possible because historical textiles should be examined, cleaned, restored, and exhibited to find out its historical value. Most of excavated costumes were severely stained and soiled. They are dark yellowish brown in color. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color of gray fabrics, bleaching would be required. Conservation treatment was carried out on the 8 historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim(1567-1596). Two of them do not hold the fabrics. They hold only cotton wool and a little piece of fabrics. Even though these costumes underwent the conservation treatment in 1979, they were stained and needed re-treatment. This time, they were dual-bleached using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride followed by wet cleaning to reduce the soils and stains. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. Through the analysis of the trace of fabric, carbonized fabric fragment, and fabrics remained in other garments, we concluded the missing fabrics to be ramie or cotton. It is different result from the primary report concluded to be silk.

Review on the Development History of Korean Textile and Fashion Companies and Chaebols - Based on Corporate Life Cycle Theory - (한국 섬유패션 기업과 재벌 발전 역사 고찰 - 기업생명주기이론에 근거하여 -)

  • Yu, Haekyung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.598-610
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    • 2021
  • Korean textile and fashion companies have played a major role not only in developing the Korean economy since Korea's industrialization started in the early 1960s but also in providing opportunities to form and expand chaebols (conglomerates of family-owned businesses). This study reviewed and analyzed the historical development of chaebols, which started the fiber/textile/fashion business before the 1960s and maintained their chaebol status until 2010. The Samsung, Samyang, Kolon, Taekwang, Hyosung, LG, and SK groups were included in the study, and data were collected from diverse sources, including the publications and websites of the chaebol companies, newspapers, magazines, and research articles. The strategies of the companies at the corporate and group levels were examined based on the corporate lifecycle, which consists of existence, growth, maturity, rebirth, and decline stages. The results showed that all the analyzed companies actively engaged in product line expansion during the growth stage. Vertical integration, especially backward integration, was common during the growth stage. Some groups established new companies to manage additional product lines and integration, while others pursued growth strategies mainly at the corporate level. The rebirth stage occurred in only a few companies and groups. Some seemed to be going through the decline stage, and the rest of the groups exited the textile and fashion business.

A Study of The Costume in the Historical TV Drama that the Empress Myungsung Appeared - Focus on Costume of Main Character - (명성황후가 등장하는 TV사극에 나타난 의상에 관한 연구[제2보] - 주요 등장 인물의 의상 표현을 중심으로 -)

  • Han Eun-Hee;Han Cha-Young;Ryu Song-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.8 s.99
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    • pp.85-98
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    • 2005
  • This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.