• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.97-100
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• 2009

Patchwork is a handicraft to put some certain shapes of small cloths together. Historical records of patchwork was discovered in Ancient Egypt as far back as BC 1000. Patchwork has been popular in the England and in around 13-$14^{th}$ century, European spliced little pieces of cloths for cold necessities, which made the handle of patchwork techniques gradually tend to decorative other than utility. Patchwork designs and techniques were taken across the Atlantic to North America with the early settlers in the mid-eighteenth century. In the early years of $20^{th}$ century, owing to the continuous technological advances, woman got more job opportunities that made patchwork technologies withered. Patchwork art continually evolved on the basis of historical and cultural factors to new styles, the famous Hawaiian, Stained Glass, Mola, Celtic, Victoria, Seminole and many other patchwork styles like that perfect embodied different art and cultures of different nations in different times.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.32-44
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• 2016

Having set a trend for luxury fashion brand markets since the $17^{th}$ century, France has established the norms and the forms of the fashion business. In addition, it has maintained its status as a leading fashion power by discovering economic value from the intangible value of design and brand, and developing fashion into a high value-added industry. This paper aims to examine the socio-cultural factors that have exerted a positive influence on the formation of "fashion power" in France from a historical perspective. It will focus on four major external historical factors that made France the top fashion power: insights and innovation of French leaders as well as their constant concerns and efforts for the promotion of fashion, a tradition of experimental cultures and arts, open and the public-centered social environment and an atmosphere of cherishing the values of creation, and the establishment of a legitimate system that protects them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.89-106
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive effects of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in cinema and also to present two examples of Queen Elizabeth I's robes designed and made based on these expressive effects. To this end, this study wilt first examine Queen Elizabeth I's robes in her portraits according to the visual definers and emblematic meanings. Then on the basis of these knowledges, analyze visual definers and viewing priorities of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in five movies. Thereinafter, these robes will be classified based upon Belong(1998)'s four expressive effects. excitement. calmness, strength and delicacy. Finally, this study will demonstrate calmness and delicacy among four expressive effects through two robes made for the purpose. After analyzing the expressive effects of robes in five Queen Elizabeth I's movies, one can conclude excitement. calmness, strength, and delicacy can be found according to the flow of the story. Since this analysis focuses mainly on one particular person during one Particular period of time, there was a fundamental silhouette prevalent among the Queen's robes which then can be classified into different forms. Moreover, Queen's character in itself embodies authority and grace which. in turn, facilitates the presentation of the four expressive effects along the story line. In conclusion, thorough historical research on the character and the period. in addition to analysis of the visual definer and viewing priorities, is imperative when designing a historical costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.27-44
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• 2002

The Folk-dress of some parts of the traditional style is extremely focused and puts value on protecting itself against changes. Generally rural areas are much more conservative politically economically, and culturally. Its environment is sluggish and slow and daily routines change slowly. So they take friendly a position between a race and geographical and environmental differences which is expressed in the Folk-dress. Also, a dress is the most preferred individual object as a symbol of collective homogeneity. By those people who preserve these kinds of the individual objects and by those people who have ethnic conservation, folk-dress was handed down to the present age and the festival dress was used as a tool of ethnic tradition and binding. Therefore, 1 would like to study and research the differences between the folk-dress of the Lithuanian historical and geographical factors and the folk-dress of the surrounding north-eastern European countries. Especially when we compare these with the folk-dress in terms of historical, cultural. and political relationships between Lithuania and the north-eastern European countries, we can find out that they had a good effect on the folk-dress historically and culturally.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.27-43
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• 2015

Festival costume shown in festival parades targeting historical events or figures helps to understand the theme of festival and grants visual effects and at the same time, is an important factor to identify then-cultural environment. Accordingly, this study aims to make a periodic review of traditional costumes used in parades for Hanseong Baekje Cultural Festival and Yeongam Wangin Cultural Festival which are both the festivals that backgrounded Baekje period, make a comparative analysis of the archetypes of reproduction costume vs Baekje costume, understand the problems of festival costume, and seek developmental directions. After making a comparative analysis of reproduction costume shown in festival parades, it was found that king costume, queen costume, governmental official costume, and humble class costume were all different from Baekje costume in terms of configuration, materials, color, shape, and creating method of costumes, and problems were drawn. When it comes to costume items, Pasul and Danryungpoh that didn't belong to Baekje period were worn. The problems in color research can be identified in governmental official costume. The problems in type of costume are shown in the length of po worn outside, margin of width, and degree of restoring accessories. Therefore, it seems to be necessary to convey and identify costume creating method by festival parade-related persons.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.181-196
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• 1998

This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.37-46
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• 2004

'Fleeting fragrance: the history, preservation and display of perfumed clothes' Fragrance - like style - is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.