• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.748-761
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• 2008

This study was initiated out of necessity to inquire into the trend of costume regulation between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century, and what influence the change of dress and its ornaments had on the people at the time. As for the resources this study was based on, the True Record of Joseon Dynasty, which was the historical record of official compilation, was used as basic material, and the excavated relics at the time were referred to. The forbidden dress and ornaments mentioned in the records from the time of King Seonjong to the time of King Hyeonjong were classified into textiles, clothes, ornaments and dresses, according to the objects. It was designed to identify the laws and ordinances or regulations enacted by the state and the contents of discussions, which were caused by the extensive consumption of silk gauze and fabrics and the luxury in dress and ornaments, and the phenomenon induced by the consumption desire of the social class with economic power, and to help understand the cause. So to speak, the law and ordinance or regulations were established to solve the social problems caused by the failure in controlling dress and ornaments wearing based on social position, during the process in which the king and court officials were making effort to intensify their political power in each regime.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.80-97
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• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.39-47
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was investigate the historical change in Kasa for the Buddhist commandment in the era of Buddha and the Korean Kasa. The original Kasa specified in Buddhist commandment has many concrete features. In contrast Korean Kasa is quite simplified and become very practical. Although we could not follow the numerous original specifications in Kasa, we must maintain and transmit Korean Kasa based in the minimum regurations. For this purpose, it is necessary to form a unified opinion and to develop a desirable specification for the Korean Kasa.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.7-26
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• 1982

Investigation for industrial revolution has been recognized as an important issue of historical science, since industrial revolution itself was a historical moment in modern economic society and in the forming of modern capitalistic culture. If clothing culture had been developed in close relation to social culture. industrial revolution which gave a base for modern capitalistic culture, would be a birth of modern clothing as well as a moment for modernization of western clothing. As it takes for granted that industrial revolution, historical phenomenon is a developmental base of modern clothing culture. This study tried to enlighten the origin of modern clothing culture phenomenon with investigation of industrial revolution as a historical moment in modern clothing culture through documental study. Historian's point of view and method of studying are important when we investigate the clothing phenomenon. Although culture phenomenon of industrial revolution has been evaluated usually through socialogical aspect, studying for clothing culture phenomenon must be carried out on aethetical as well as well as sociological aspect, on account of dualism of clothing, as it is social and artistic nature. In 19th century, there were technical improvement, changing patterns of production, changing social relation and beginning of mass culture. At the same time clothing culture phenomenon was changed in relation to modern capitalistic society. The findings of the study could be summarized as follows. 1. Technical improvement in textile industry and fitting process brought about mechanization of clothing industry. 2. Appearance of popular clothing culture made it easy to spread to various classes of society. 3. Development of transportation system and communication channel made it internationalization of western clothing. 4. Recognition of importance in functional style of clothing. 5. The pursuit of modern aesthetics made rapid changing mode of clothing. Above distinctive features of modern clothing culture were derived from by-product of machinary culture, mass culture, internationalism, rapidly changing mode of various culture during industrial revolution. Industrial revolution was a change of the material world as well as in industry owing to machine advent, then the culture part that displayed directly these changes was the plastic arts of living that mould the material. The problem of clothing construction caused by industrial revolution was solved by pursuing the functional aesthetics. Clothing phenomenon as a process of value transfer participates mass culture in closs relation to general change of various culture caused by industrial revolution. Therefore western clothing gained the qualities of modern culture, condensed as function, and popularity in the process of modernization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.117-137
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• 2011

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-ju(細), Si(總)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東弟] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史)of Japan from the $4^{th}$ century to the early $10^{th}$ century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the $8^{th}$ century and Sllla(新羅) of the $9^{th}$ century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the $10^{th}$ century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the $7^{th}$ century and it was rapidly spread in the $8^{th}$ century. In the $9^{th}$ century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(細) and Si(總)in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the $8^{th}$ century to the $9^{th}$ century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the $9^{th}$ century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early $8^{th}$ century. As the foreign relation between Sllia and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-$8^{th}$ century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.