• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2012

From the beginning of the twentieth century, 'Modernism' impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso's innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel's fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly decorative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has examined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer's environment from different perspectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel's visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.155-162
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• 2000

Classifying the diverse and complex clothing category of nationality subcultures in China is not a simple task. However, summing up, it can be largely classified that clothing of the northern area is long trousers and short skirt. Among the clothing of Nationality in China, especially, Pao(robe: 袍) has its diversity and colorfulness. whose elements forming its each characteristic feature has enough value to be investigated fully in the historical point of view. The conclusions of this study reveals that Pao in nationality subculture in China can possibly be divided into the four types as Qipao(旗袍) in Dongpei area, Mongopao(蒙古袍) in Inner Mongolia, Qiapan in Xinjiang area, and Zangpao in Tibet area. The modes of Qipao and Mongopao are mainly similar in that they have diagonally on the right, stand collar in composition, but Qipao shows its diversity in collar and slashes, and Mongopao also shows diversity in its colare and waistband. Since western culture flowed into China along with its open door and reform policy, the splendid color and distinctive pattern, decoration, diversified method of compositions and clothing categories of Nationality cultures are disappearing in its their originality and nationality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.159-170
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• 2003

핀업은 제2차 세계대전기간동안 매력적인 여성들의 성적인 사진들을 군일들이 그들의 숙소 벽에 부착함으로서 생겨난 신조어이다. 이러한 핀업들은 영화의 발달로 인하여 헐리우드 스타들과 같은 발전된 형태로서 나타나게 됐으며, 그들의 스타일은 하나의 패션 트랜드를 만들었다. 본 연구의 목적은 핀업의 스타일을 역사적 관점에서 고찰하여 특성을 분석하며 핀업 스타일이 역사적으로 어떠한 변화를 통하여 오늘날의 현대패션까지 영향을 미치게 되었는가를 연구하는 것이다. 연구방법은 관련된 문헌고찰을 통한 역사학적 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 핀업의 범주를 설정하고 관련자료를 수집하였다. 그리고 핀업 스타일의 공시적, 통시적 고찰, 역사적 변천과 특성을 분석하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치가 패션에 어떠한 영향을 미치고 있는지를 연구해보았다. 연구 결과 핀업 그 스스로는 역사적 고찰을 통하여 그 가치를 지니며, 핀업 스타일의 변화는 구조적으로 이루어지며, 구조는 세대와 취향에 따라 변화하며 패션에 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있었다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.562-576
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to semiotically reinterpret the Korean beauty and symbol inhering in the modern clothing of Korean designers as the context of traditional culture through regarding the clothing including hegemony that is controlling the Korean society and culture as a sign. The theoretical framework for analysis was derived from the semiotically analytic methods of F. Saussure and R. Barthes. The results of the study are as follows ; Korean images reflected in the modern clothing designed by Korean designers are humanistic image, environmental-friendly image, totemic and mythlogical image, equal and peaceful image, and metaphorical and metonymical image. Conclusively, developing a creative design based upon the interpretation of our unique and traditional culture, the clothing could be newly made of historical and cultural resources in the modern lives. If so, I think that the clothing will be not only the visual and decorative art, but also an information which contains implication of our culture, and finally can be established.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.554-565
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• 2016

This study analyzed expressive effects of King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory. Theoretical analysis was done through a literature research of previous studies from both domestic and international. Empirical research was used as a research tool for visual media such as , , and . An analysis on movie costumes indicated that King Henry VIII's costume almost matched DeLong's (1998) expressive effect on excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy. King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory expressed significant of strength and excitement in terms of expressive effects with some elegance. King Henry VIII's costumes had their expressive effects different according to the intentions of film productions, even for the identical event scenes with the same purpose. The findings of this study can be used as basic data for the research of design and costumes as well as the production of drama stages for historical dramas during King Henry VIII's reign.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.159-170
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• 2001

The culture and society environment plays major role in the development of Fashion and now in the 21st century, interest in Fashion is getting increased along with the rapid progress of advanced media development and information surge. Now it s the time to extend visual efficiency not only transmitting fashion image but also develop a creative product that satisfy the demander s needs. Currently it is very hard to express our subjective Korean "nationalism" in the Fashion since the various expression skill using western fashion illustration are dominant in our society. I have classified two components, fashion illustration and Korean painting in the theoretical circumstance. In fashion illustration circumstance, I examined the concept, usage, expression skill and history referring to historical documents. In Korean painting section, I considered coloring portrait concept, pattern, history, concept, and feature of the four gentlemanly plants. including the basic material of Korean-paper, Writing- Brush, Ink-Stone, Traditional-ink and also the history of itself. I have designed 8 products applying the concept of plum blossoms, orchids, chrysanthemums and bamboos that represent the most important part of the four gentlemanly plants, and also the expression skill of Korean coloring portrait.rait.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.5-18
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• 1999

This study focus on the history of Scottish kilt and the application of kilt designed by Vivienne Westwood 1993 F/W. Up to late the 16 Century saffron shirt was worn among Highland men and belted plaid become common dress after the 17 Century. The early the 18 Century belted plaid have developed as a kilt separated to a upper and a lower skirt style. However Government banned wearing tartan and kilt after Culloden battle (1745) as highland Dress(tartan, kilt, belted plaid etc) was the symbol of rebellion. This legislation by Hanoverian authority continued for 35 years. Although most of tartan was disappeared during those period it has become popular among European upper class after george IV's visiting Scotlan in 1822. Highland Dress become Scottish national dress after Industrial revolution. Currently Vivienne Westwood's 93 F/W using tartan and kilt and its accessaries those items were successfully transformed modern ladies dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.881-892
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• 2001

Applying the globalization theory to the fashion phenomena which regarded the phenomena of the contemporary culture as globalization, this study had an object of looking into the globalization tendency of the fashion phenomena shown Paris, London, Milno, New York, Tokyo, and Seoul collections from 1995 to 1999. The results of this study were as follows; 1. It was the blend of romanticism that was the most common trend shown at the six world collections. 2. The works appeared at the six world collections showed the regional peculiarity under the historical background or the sociocultural influence each city had. 3. Another character appeared at the six city collections was the appearance of multi-ethnic style mixed various regional motive at a work. After all, the world fashion phenomena in the second half of 1990's could be condensed into globalization appeared homogenization, regionalization and hybridization at the same time.