• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.67-77
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to investigate the origin of ku and changes of styles from ancient times to recent times. It will contribute to recent times . It will contribute the correct understanding of the historical change of clothing materials. For this study historical comparative method were utilized using documentary records and relic of ku. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were the first clothes that human beings put on in order to protect human body against the cold. Ku was widely worn by many people in Asia dynasty. ku was an out fit for protection against the cold and it was made of animal fur. 2. The ancient times, the northern part of korean peninsular and Manchus were the mainfield of action of korean people. At this time, koreans preferred the ho-bok that the nomadic tribe used put on. But the territiory of unified Silla was limited to the southern part of korean peninsular, and it be supposed that ku was preferred only in a certain local community and social class. In Chosun dynasty , ku was also adopted as garment for protection against cold. During Sung-Zong and Chung -Zong era it was so popularized that both men and women in noble class preferred it. But in latter part of Chosun dynasty government worned the nation against extravagance in living, ku lots its popurality and it was modified into another garments such as gotzaugori, baeza and magoza.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.139-153
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• 2016

Retro fashion can be defined as re-applied and re-created fashion style where a certain period or a specific style in the past would be recalled. As a unique cultural phenomenon, the 'retro' style has affected not only our daily lives, but also the fashion industry. The purpose of this study is to explore the relationship between the nostalgia and consumer purchase behaviors of retro fashion products in Korea. The data was collected using a self-administered online survey of 224 respondents. The results show that the sub-elements of nostalgia include personal and historical nostalgia. The personal nostalgia positively influences consumers' purchase intention of retro fashion products, whereas historical nostalgia negatively affects retro purchase intention. Interestingly, the moderating effects of self-connection and age of respondents on the relationship between nostalgia and retro purchase intention was identified. The findings highlight the potential role of retro fashion on modern society, as it can overturn any concerns people may have about the gloomy future and the harsh reality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2005

Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.129-145
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• 2001

Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.713-725
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• 2007

This treatise is designed to discover the principle of timeless continuity of Korean design from the perspective of modem accomodation of formative beauty of tractional dress style with the focus on measurement analysis of dress from visual perspective. For this purpose in this research the following subjects are studied with concentration: the 1st phase debate on the dress style appearing in the Kokuryo murals and genre painting during the later period of Chosun Dynasty regarding the formative beauty of dress style. 2nd phase debate on the points of changes and transformations during given age and given principle of Korean designs being maintained across the span of time in the context of madern accomodation of such traditional dress. From historical perspective characteristics of each given age and principles of visual formative principles appear in various ways variety attributable to mutually interactive principles according to historical background and culture. For this reason it can be said that they are determined by different paradigm or forms from characteristics of Korean style design in the present and future and those for traditional forms of dress in the past.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.82-93
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• 2009

This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.136-148
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the current infrastructure of database on costume cultural heritage. The contents, kinds and accessibility regarding the digital contents of the websites of literature archives, museums and culturecontent.com by Korea Creative Content Agency were analyzed. First, it was evident that the quantity and quality of the database should be improved. The literature archives are mostly comprised of historical documents; however, the quantity of the database regarding the documents that are commonly studied in the field of traditional costume is not satisfactory. On the other hand, the quality of the database depends on the in-depth understanding of the terminology because errors occur when the contents of literature are transferred to an online database. Second, various information is required to meet the needs and interests of the digital environment. Most of the museums provide information on costume cultural heritage through their websites; nevertheless, it is not thorough and only partial. Third, the reliability of information needs to improve. The various contents provided by culturecontent.com lack reliability as it focuses on the entertainment values. To increase reliability, the source and origin of the information about the costume cultural heritage should be provided and the contents should be proofread before they are exposed to the public. Based on these findings, the researchers put forward the following suggestions: the quantity and quality of the databases should be enriched, and that more diverse information is required. Finally, more attention should be paid to increase the reliability of this information. This study will be an asset for the foundation to build solid databases and popularization of the traditional costumes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.