• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the hair style trend in the respect of fashion trend in 1960s. The study also attempted if there were significant influences to current hair designers and hair styles as beehive, mods hair, short cut. geometric cut, wigs, natural hair, unisex hair. This study is a descriptive study, involving the collection of picture data and examine the art of the 1960's. Because 1960's is a revolutionary decade in the way of living and fashion trend. This study also adopted review of literature and analysis of magazines. 1960's was a period of major street fashion as Mods, Jackie Look, Miniskirt, Pop Art, Op Art Look, Space Look, Hippie Look, Unisex Look. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1) A review of literature had shown that little or no studies for an in depth analysis of 1960's fashion trend and hair design. 2) During the sixties, the trend of fashion and hair style were remarkable change in the way of living. 3) There were strong influences hair styles of 1960's until today.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2016

Since their emergence in the 1960s, music festivals have attracted young people the world over with similar tastes, attitudes and styles. Now a worldwide phenomenon, music festivals such as Glastonbury in England, Primavera Sound in Barcelona, Spain and Pentaport Rock Festival in Incheon, South Korea draw hundreds of thousands of attendees from around the world and have become a major event not only for music fans, but for trend forecasters who now chronicle what has come to be known as "festival fashion", which has several distinctive style markers. This paper provides a historical background of festival fashion, examines the phenomenon using fashion theory and discusses the controversies facing the music festival and festival fashion, in particular the role that sponsorship from major corporations currently plays as advertisers who want to get their products into the hands of influential festival attendees and allegations of cultural appropriation on the part of attendees. In conclusion, the future of music festivals and festival fashion as a category is examined.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

Expression of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas plays a role of making the progress of dramas not bigoted and new. Especially, woman characters have a high weight as a heroine by an increase in their image in fusion traditional dramas. Expression of characters harmonizing modern with tradition has also given a help in reflecting a trend of the present times. Hair style and face makeup of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas are in the process of fusionization getting an effect from postmodernism. They are expressing the hair style of symbolization modern elements of hair style to traditional hair styles. They also expressed a neutral image with faded hair styles in the shaggy cut style and dye of neoplaticism. Neo-hippie style was changed into the style of naturalism and nationalism and the hair style braided in various branches as the one of Indians was changed into a primitive and national feature. It is producing a new style by permitting even a long-hair permanent wave hair style. Expression of straight hair style, a long-hair shaggy & bulging wave style and a hair style of neoplaticism, was distinguished. In the side of face makeup, they expressed its luxurious and splendid style by attaching great importance to its luster and are exposing images of characters by a smoky makeup emphasizing eye lines. Their face makeup was almost never separated from present dramas as using pearl shadow in a glossy lips makeup and color, which made it possible to express it more dramatically in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas. In the event of the makeup element of fusion traditional dramas permitting diversity, the character makeup of fusion traditional dramas made a foundation to show people diverse elements of makeup by mix & match a present elements and past elements of historical research, which made it possible to express a unique makeup or a special makeup. Diverse makeup expressions were limited by reflection of illumination even in the existing videos. Therefore, 'Fusion' made it possible to express it more freely in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1229-1240
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to review such results of the scientific and technological development as women's changed status, sexual identity and their views of physique in the cyber space based on cyber feminists' theories, and thereby, examine the concept of space during the medieval age, and then, the fundamental spiritual concept involving the fetishism of women's body as sexual objects in the materialistic space of the digital age in terms of the consciousness of trend or supra-sensual perceptions, and thereby, review the effect of the cyber terrorism and violence on the fashion in sub-cultural terms. Some researchers distinguish psychedelic styles from cyberdelic ones to assume such psychiatric visions as psychedelic fashion characterized by resistance and delinquency-cyber punk fashion, cyber hippie fashion, cyborg fashion- and then, define them all as cyber resistant culture fashion or as a sub-cultural style of the cyber culture. As a result, it was found that human bodies are being encoded with the networks, various cyber characters or avatars are emerging, while human bodies are being distorted or exaggerated with human beings and machines being imploded.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.122-142
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• 2003

This study examines the meaning of retro phenomenon and its background of establishment that showed in the pop culture. And it finds out the retro phenomena in the domestic fashion trends. And it defines the characteristics of dress and its ornament in the retro phenomena that have shown in the Korean movies since 1998. By doing this, it examines the relationship between movie dress and street fashion while it compares the styles in the 50s 70s with the retro fashion that is currently emerging. The results of the study are as follows. First, the hippie look in the 60s represented a distinctive characteristic of how they rejected traditional lifestyles. Hippie's romantic femininity that showed in the movie of 'Oollala Sisters' received a spotlight as a necessary style in the modern fashion trend. Second, while the funk look in the 70s was a style of disorder and disgust, the movie gives it a possibility of fashion with a converted sense as a vanguard fashion while embracing the funk look. Third, the layered look in the 70s was expressed with layered items, while the current layered look emphasizes layered textiles as shown in the movie of 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King'. Fourth, the feminine look which was a symbol of restraint shows a mixed style with delicate feminine items as shown in the movies, 'The Harmonium In My Memory' and 'Ditto'. Fifth, the training look that has two stripes as shown in the movie 'the Friends' is considered as casual wear, which is functional and easy to move at the end of the 20th century. Finally, the romantic images of school look, as shown in the movies 'the Friends' and 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King', show a renewed mixed & unique style. This study has its significance in the sense that it verifies the fact that the movie dress does not show the characteristics of the works that momentarily passes the screen, but it becomes a foundation of the future fashion design. At this time that Korean movies are highly developing, a through study on the movie fashion will not only give a direction of future in the modern fashion, but it will also give a developing momentum in the Korean movie dress.