• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.26-34
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on the mechanical properties of two different waterproof and breathable shell fabric groups(high density woven and PTFE laminate) used for outdoor apparel and to compare and correlate data of their mechanical properties and hand values. The results of this study were as follows; There were no statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in extension, bending and shearing properties. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in MMD, SMD, LC and we values. High density woven fabrics had smoother surface than PTFE laminated fabrics. PTFE laminated fabrics can be compressed easily more than high density woven fabrics but their recovery after compression was not better than high density woven fabrics. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in NUMERI, FUKURAMI. There was statistically significant difference between two fabric groups in total hand value. Total hand value and mean deviation of MIU had a very high and statistically significant negative correlation coefficient.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1798-1811
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• 2010

This research evaluates the changes in the comfort-related properties of high-density fabric, such as moisture permeability and waterproofness, in order to assess the relative importance of laundry conditions for clothing properties after repeated laundering and suggest the best laundering conditions for high-density fabric through the identification of the most influential factor. A commercial high-density fabric was washed 25 times in a drum-type washer using nine different laundry conditions based on profiles derived from a fractional factorial design. To evaluate the changes in the comfort-related properties of the fabric, pore size, air permeability, water vapor transport, water repellency, and water resistance were measured. The comfort-related properties of the fabric deteriorated after repeated laundering by the damaged surface finish; in addition, the damaged surface also changed the pore size. As a result, the water repellency and water resistance decreased. The detergent was the most responsible factor to change the properties among the four factors of detergent, hardness, temperature, and RPM. The best laundering conditions for the fabric was a neutral detergent, soft water of 70ppm, a temperature of $15^{\circ}C$, and 30rpm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.112-118
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• 2020

This paper examined the water repellency, water proofing and water vapor permeability of twelve types of woven fabrics for sports wear clothing. Their physical properties were compared and discussed with the fabric structural parameters and surface finishing effect. A water repellent property of 100% was obtained in the coated or laminated water repellent finished fabrics; in addition, cotton/nylon breathable composite fabrics treated with a laminated finishing and with low fabric density showed a 90% water repellency. Water proofing fabric above 6,000 mm H₂O hydraulic pressure was achieved by coated or laminated finishing; however, high density fabric or medium-level coated fabrics exhibited 100% water repellent and low water proofing characteristics. Superior water vapor permeability characteristics with good water repellency and proofing properties were achieved at the 2.5 layered low density and with 0.7 - 0.9 cover factor nylon fabrics treated with hydrophilic laminated finishing. The regression analysis for examining the effects of fabric structural parameters and surface finishing such as coating and laminating to the water vapor permeability exhibited a high determination coefficient of fabric structural parameters of 63.5%; in addition,, main factors among fabric structural parameters appeared to be cover factor and fabric thickness per weight. Coating and Laminating factors exhibited determination coefficient of water vapor permeability parameters of 36.5%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.597-605
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• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• 한국정보처리학회논문지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.111-118
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• 1998

직물의 밀도를 측정하는 작업은 직물 제직 공정에서 매우 중요한 사항이나 일반적으로 직물 제직 공장에서는 고속의 제직 라인에서 수작업에 의해 비효율적으로 행해지고 있다. 따라서 직물 제직 공정에서 직물의 포목 교정을 통해 고품질의 직물을 생산하기 위해서는 정확한 밀도 측정 과저잉 필수적인 사항이다. 본 논문에서는 고속의 제직 공정에서 광학적인 실린더 렌즈를 이용하여 직물의 위사 정보를 검출한 후 밀도 측정을 자동화함으로써 양질의 직물 생산과 직물 생산 효율을 극대화하고자 자동 밀도 측정 시스템을 제안하였다. 제안한 자동 밀도 측정 시스템은 고속의 직물 제직 공정에서 직물의 전체 영역에 걸쳐 일정한 밀도를 유지시켜 고품질의 직물 생산을 가능하게 하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.457-463
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• 2018

This study examined the water absorption and drying properties of the thirteen types of the knitted fabrics for sports wear. These physical properties were analysed with relation to the constituent fiber cross-sectional shape and structure parameters of the knitted fabrics by regression analysis. Absorption and drying properties of the knitted fabric specimens were increased with increasing the porosity of the constituent yarns, which was attributed to the capillary channels in the yarns. The water absorption and drying properties were increased and decreased with increasing tightness factor and stitch density of the knitted fabric. The absorption property of the knitted fabric for perspiration absorption and fast dry sport-wear clothing was mostly influenced mostly by fiber cross-sectional shape and its characteristics, whereas, drying property was dependent on the structural parameters of the knitted fabric such as tightness factor and stitch density. Therefore, superior perspiration absorption and fast drying knitted fabric could be obtained in the fabric structure with optimum tightness factor and stitch density, and constituent yarn structure with non-circular fiber crosssection and high porosity. GATS method and MMT method are used to measure sweating fast drying properties and it is necessary to carry out studies using these measurement methods in order to compare with the results of this study.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2008

Three kinds of 135D/108F ITY were produced from raw yam 85D/72F + SDY 50D/36F with. interlacing pressure $1.5kg/cm^2$, $2.5kg/cm^2$, $3.5kg/cm^2$ respectively. 72 kinds of sized yams were manufactured from three ITYs by altering sizing speed, sizing temperature and sizing tension. The mechanical characteristics of 72 kinds of plain fabrics which were woven using the sized yam as a warp were analyzed after scouring. The initial modulus of scoured fabric responded sensitively to the sizing speed in high tension. The WT of scoured fabric recorded the. highest1n the conditions of sizing tension 30g, and air pressure $2.5kg/cm^2$ in interlacing treatment. When sizing temperature was high, the WT value appeared low, but when sizing speed was high, the WT value was much affected by air pressure in interlacing raw yam. The MIU value of fabric according to sizing tension variations increased up to sizing tension 40g, but decreased above it. The bulk density decreased up to sizing tension 30-40g, but increased above it. In addition, the bulk density decreased as sizing temperature increased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.193-204
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• 2002

Many fashion forecasting companies propose the fashion colors in every season. Modern fashion consumer respond to fashionable trends with utmost sensitivity. Therefore to satisfy the consumer with an trendy image, the fashion design must be found first, as image matters, followed by an analysis of each design element's effect on the total image composition. In previous studies of fashion image, has been discussed the positive correlation between fashion design elements of color, fabric, and form as the central issue. In this thesis, two of the fashion design elements, color and fabric are simultaneously considered to classify the image of fabric in fashion. For the color variables, 10 hues are selected from Munsell's system of color notation, and 12 tones from PCCS color notation., which are currently used in the domestic fashion industry. Texture variables used in this survey are classified by luster, prominence-depression of surface, thickness, and density of fabric. Graduate students from 20 to 50 years old and the specialists in fashion companies participated in the survey. The results of this survey are as follows: 1. The fashion fabric image is classified as 5 main images: 'elegant', 'comfortable', 'characteristic', 'light'and 'simple'. 2. The influence of hue, tone and texture is significant to the fashion fabric image. Following colors, yellow-red, red hues and light grayish, dark grayish tones convey the elegant image. The texture property for the elegant image is luster, thin and low density. Properties of fabric conveying the comfortable image are yellow-red and green-yellow hue, soft, light tones, matte and high density. Furthermore, hue turned out to be a insignificant variables for the unique image, whereas dark grayish, grayish tone, luster and prominent texture convey a unique image. For light image, properties of fabric are blue-green, purple hues, light, bright tones with thin, low density texture. Properties of fabric conveying the simple image are blue-green, purple-blue, green-yellow hues, and strong, vivid tones, with luster and flat texture.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.553-559
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• 2005

Hand characteristics related with structural properties of fabrics have something to do with mechanical properties of fabric. In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyzed according to fabric structural parameters such as the weave structure and the linear density of weft of cotton fabric. Mechanical properties have been used by KES-FB system which measures hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. Linear density of weft, tensile, bending, and shear properties are decreasing with increasing weft linear density, and there is no considerable effects on compression and surface properties. In case of formability with weft linear density, B/W, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T except MMD/SMD, WC/T, and WC/W have been effected. There is a high correlation between the crimp, tightness, hand, formability and mechanical properties specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influences the bending rigidity, shear properties, and the tightness which have effects on the tensile linearity, bending, shear, compression properties, hand, and formability.