• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.161-172
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• 2023

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na₂S₂O₄ were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L^* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na₂S₂O₄ was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na₂S₂O₄, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na₂S₂O₄. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4-5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.22-35
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• 1998

The objective of this study was to investigate and to identify and to classify the fabric names concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). The important findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Various names of fabrics concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla were found to be classified into ten categories of fabrics. They were as follows: (1) kye( ), (2) Su(繡), (3) Kum(錦), (4) Ra(羅), (5) Reung(綾), (6) Sa(紗), (7) Si( ), (8) Kyun(絹), (9) Myun Ju(綿紬), (10) Po(布). Ra(羅) in ten categories was the most various. The numbering orders shown above were the orders of degree of valuability and preciousness of the fabrics in Silla. Namely, (1) Kye( ) was the most precious fabric, (2) Su(繡) was the second precious one, (3) Kum(錦) was the third precious one, and so on. It was found that the orders of the degree of preciousness of fabrics were a system for differentiating social class and rank, or sex of the people. It revealed the ordering system of the degree of the preciousness of fabrics of Silla was derived from T'ang dynasty. The system of Silla and T'ang system were almost the same each other. Materials used to manufacture fabrics were of mainly three kinds; e.g., wool, silk, and hemp. In these three kinds of materials silk was the most common stuff, and it was seen under the various names of the silks.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.248-261
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• 2023

The conditions for minimizing dyes and additives when dyeing cellulose fibers such as linen, ramie, and hemp fabrics were obtained using glucose, an organic reducing agent. Dyeability and colorfastness were measured through repeated dyeing. The overall surface dyeing concentration followed the linen>hemp>ramie order, and most of the colors were in the range of PB (PurpleBlue). As the glucose concentration increased, the blue series was strengthened, and the color was dark and clear. It was determined that glucose the concentration of 4g/L was appropriate for minimizing the amount of dye. When the dyeing temperature was 30℃, the surface dyeing concentration was the highest, and the color was dark and clear. Although the dyeing concentration increased as NaOH concentration increased, 3g/L (pH 12.37) was considered appropriate for the minimum NaOH concentration, which becomes gradual after the dyeing concentration increased rapidly. It was found that the surface dyeing concentration, when repeated six times for 5 min, was better than that of dyeing once for 30 min. Washing, rubbing, and perspiration colorfastness were all found to be excellent in grades 4-4-5, and colorfastness to light was excellent in grades 5 of linen and hemp and grade 4 of ramie.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.34
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• pp.50-61
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• 2013

The Grave encapsulated by lime soil mixture were excavated with clothing and hemp shoes from the Choseon Dynasty in Gooam, Sacheon. Hemp shoes have wood in the center and their surroundings were made of complex materials including herbaceous ones but the front part was lost or became very fragile. We analyzed the hemp shoes and pre-test of consolidant for conservation treatment of hemp shoes. As a result of analyzing, three kinds of plants were identified. For hemp shoes, Oryza spp, hemp, and one kind of dicotyledones were used and it was analyzed that fabrics attached to the back of Dogaengi was cotton. Conservation methods for pre-test of consolidant, Polyethylene Glycol, Paraloid-B72, Dammar gum, Methyl Cellulose and Silicone resin was selected. The solution was sprayed twice in a 24-hour duration. Properties of consolidant was measured; color difference, glossiness difference, folding streangth and tensile streangth. By comparing the results, PEG was confirmed to the most suitable as consolidant. For the conservation treatment, cleaning and strengthening was conducted. For strengthening treatment, PEG 4000 was selected given that the shoes were made of complex materials. The PEG impregnation method was applied with the PEG 4000 concentration gradually changing from 5% to 80% for reinforcement. Then humidity- controlled drying in order to avoid any rapid environment change.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.170-183
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• 2019

Fiber scutching refers to the process of extracting fibers from plants by separating or extracting fibers from the raw materials. As the definition of the term implies, the "Fiber Scutching" is performed on plants with advanced bast fiber as the primary material processing technique performed on plant materials. Some of the most popular phosphorus plants are ramie, hemp, flax, and the paper mulberry, which have a long history of cultivation and a wide range of distribution, making them very universal as a material supporting human life and culture. This study was described in Oju-yeonmunjangjeon-sango but was designed to re-examine the method of breaking dried stalks, which is currently unused in Korea, to examine the feasibility and characteristics of the technology. As a result of sampling and experimenting with hemp bast using the method recorded in the literature, hemp fiber was actually produced. The criteria for removing the shell from the hemp stem were the degree of discoloration and drying, and only when the stalk was completely discolored to yellow could segregation of the stalk from the shell be performed. The amount of sunlight and temperature were conditions that accelerated drying. However, if exposed for a long time, it is confirmed that hemp bast will be in a suitable condition to process, regardless of the amount of sunlight and temperature. 'Breaking of dried stalks', which utilizes the physical power of 'threshing with a flail' is considered a core process of the fiber scutching technique in 'Yukjin' in Hamgyeong-do. The bark and the core of the hemp were separated by tapping, the bast was thinly split, and the shell was peeled off, making it suitable for collecting with thread. The method of collecting the fibers by applying physical power causes downing on the fibers, which is to be generally avoided in the manufacture of bast fabric woven hemp or ramie. However, Hamgyeong-do's fiber scutching method seems to have applied this principle to the method of making fragile fabrics by using it in reverse. This method is distinct from the steaming or boiling of the stalks' in Andong, Korea, and it is similar to the Western method of spinning fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.5-17
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• 1999

This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.85-95
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to find a phase of clothing in Korean proverb. The results of the analysis of this research was as follows： In the case of headgear, was expose that symbolize handsomeness, conduct of life, personality that display charm and position which is not usage as only head protection. Upper wear was expressing aspect and person's similarity, and was symbolizing conduct of life by meaning of dress and its ornaments according to a person that dress displays that change. Trousers(bottom wear) was expose that it means aspect or conduct of life(a 4 case, 40％) through site. Overcoat showed that overcoat that is clothes that is symbolizing wearer's situation, aspect and wear most on face because is involved with behavior that is not right in clothes usage is used by standard that foretell personality. Underwear can know that expressed being involved with right behavior, nature by the basic clothes. I was able to know that I express an attitude of a life or a form through shoe, and the accessories won an minor order but that I have a large influence on a character or the appearance of a person. Silk fabrics expresses Position, and hemp cloth expressed by symbol that display ability. Also, silk fabrics had meaning that hint person's background. Dress and its ornaments that is used in proverb by these result can know that have function as symbolic symbol that display Person's nature or situation, aspect that is wearing clothes that is not function as only simple clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.41-46
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• 1984

Ancient Korean and China litteratures show us that it has been long since people from humbler classes to king most commonly used bast fabrics as materials of their cloth. According to the record of these ancient litteratures, highly developed fine bast fabrics and those woven in figures were used as tribute between ancient Korea and China. In this study we will make a brief research of the history of bast fabric culture from ancient times to the Korea Dynasty in which the bast fabric culture flourished and reached the summit of prosperity. After having compared the bast fabric culture of ancient Korea with that of ancient China in which the bast fabric culture developed very much and bast fabrics were used more commonly as materials of cloth than any other fabrics, we could come to conclusions as follows. 1. Names were given to bast fabrics according to the kinds of bast fibers, the degree of fineness and the containing of figures: Ma-po, Jeo, Jeo-po, Bag-jeo-po, Moon-jeo-po, Po and Se-po. The number of 'Seung' which indicated the degree of fineness was attached to the top of each name to show how fine they are. 2. While the bast fabric of 30 Seung is known to be the most fine one of the ancient China, in ancient Korea fine bast fabric of higher than 30 Seung was woven. This fact proves that the technique of weaving bast fabrics of the ancient Korea was more highly developed than that of ancient China. 3. In ancient China the highest Seung number of the ordinary clothes which were put on after putting off livery of grief was regulated to be 15. But in ancient Korea, Sil-la, it was regulated to be 28. Judging from this fact, we may say that the consumption level of the ancient Korean people in cloth was higher than that of the ancient China people. 4. The reason why in ancient Korea the technique of weaving bast fabrics was so highly developed is suppoed to be that the ancient Korean people preferred elegant, refine and simple taste in cloth. 5. The excellent bast fabric culture of the ancient Korea flowed into ancient Japan. It proves that Korea played an important part in the history of textile development of the world.