• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.229-233
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• 2004

Andongpo, 100% Korean hemp fabric was treated with the glyoxale resin type finishing agent and/or the soluble urethane type finishing agent to determine the optimum process condition of the crease resistant finish and the crease recovery of treated sample fabrics was evaluated for the study. The treatment conditions for the study were 6 conditions, such as, A-1~A-6, in which A-1 was the condition of treatment glyoxale resin type finishing agent only and A-2~A-6 were the condition of treatment both glyoxale resin type finishing agent and soluble urethane type finishing agent. Among the 6 conditions, the crease recovery of the sample treated with A-4 condition was $148^{\circ}$(angle of recovery method) and grade 3.2(appearance method) and so, these samples showed the excellent crease recovery. From the result, 15g/l of the catalyst conc., 50g/l of the glyoxale resin type finishing agent cone., and 40g/l of the softner were the optimum treatment condition for the crease resistant finish of the andongpo.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.759-769
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• 2001

The principal purpose of this study is focused on the fabrics used in Kaya period by investigating the imprinted fabrics on the remains of the old tomb of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong which were built around the late 4th century to the late 6th century. Most of the remains are plain weaved, however there is one remain that 4-end complex gauze with patterned, and the other is weaved with geometrical pattern which were plain weave with 2 · 1 twill and 3 · 1 twill. The imprinted fabrics that had twists had S twists only. Of all the fabrics that were examined, the most loose one had the density of 8 × 6/cm, the most fine fabric had the weft density of 91.8 strands/cm and the warp density cannot be counted. It is No. 416 of Doharg-ri tomb that has the highest ratio of density as 3.15. All the fabrics observed by SEM and Polarizing Microscope are hemp.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.955-967
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• 1995

This study was performed to investigate the physical and chemical properties of the 5 kinds of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and undyed fabrics. The difference between dyed and undyed fabrics was checked experimentally. Obtained results are as follows. 1. Bending length and flex stiffness were increased after dyeing, and tensile strength of waif i3l fabrics except Ramie was also increased. 2. Abrasion resistance was improved in Ramie and Hemp after dyeing but the rest of fabrics were decreased. 3. Crease resistance of dyed fabrics was roughly worse than that of undyed fabrics. 4. Air permeability remarkably increased after dyeing and this fact estabilished that the traditional Gal-01 was cool clothing. 5. Water repellency in Cotton 1 and Polyester rises but the rest of fabrics were not changed. Therefore it is found that this repellency related to the their fabric counts. 6. Blocking effect of UV light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed Cotton 1 and Polyester blocked UV light almost perfectly. 7. The colorfastness to soaping and sunlight was proved to less than 3 grade in all fabrics after dyeing. It indicates that this colorfastness became worse owing to dyeing. 8. The colorfastness to dry cleaning and water was decided to more than 3 grade in all fabrics. 9. The colorfastness of the dyed fabrics to sweat after exposing to man-made acid sweat solution was good so that was decided above 3 grade. However after exposing to man-made alkalic sweat solution it became worse owing to dyeing.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.598-607
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• 2008

Bast fibers were applied for various usages from fabrics to household care products long time ago. In this study, we investigated the physical characteristrus of water retted & chemically rotted fibers of Yucca, New Zealand hemp, Corn, Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, and Mulberry paper that have been harvested by domestic cultivation. Water retting is more effective than chemical rotting for six kinds of plant fibers. When all fibers were rotted chemically with 1% sodium hydroxide, only Kuzu vine and Indian mallow were retted. Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Com fibers have higher tensile strength than any other fibers. The crystallinity of Kuzu vine, Indian mallow, Yucca, New Zealand hemp, and Corn was as low as 60% but Yucca, New Zealand hemp were flexible. Yucca had fewer lumina whereas New Zealand hemp more lumina in cross sectional shape. Especially com fibers have a structure like sponge, and Indian mallow had a net shape. The longitudinal section of New Zealand hemp showed smooth and long shape. Mulberry paper was proved to be short and thin, which is quite appropriate for making paper. In this study, we found that plant fibers for living material could be used for cloth materials.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2005

Researches to preserve and restore the excavated cellulose fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated cellulose fabrics, acid-treated cellulose fabrics were prepared. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were used for an experiment. Three kinds of cellulose fabrics were treated by the acid aqueous solution for the various strength retention ($100\%,\;80\%,\;60\%,\;40\%,\;20\%$). The fine structure and physical properties of acid treated cellulose fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as wide-angle X-ray diffraction, tensile test, weight loss, shrinkage, SEM etc. Tensile strength and strain of cellulose fabrics decreased with increasing acid treatment time. However, weight loss and shrinkage increasing slightly. The crystal diffraction intensity was not changed. SEM results of acid-treated cellulose fabrics show that the surface was damaged.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

모시, 삼베 및 견직물의 천연염료 염색 중 탄닌색소 함유 염료재료, 한약재 염료재료를 이용한 염색방법 구명 시험과 염색 후 항균성검증과 염색견뢰도를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 가. 탄닌색소를 함유한 상수리나뭇잎, 호두외피, 밤송이 등의 추출액을 염색할 경우에 모시, 삼베, 견직물은 pH가 낮을수록, 또한, 염색온도가 높을수록 염섹직물은 짙게 염색되었다. 나. 홍화 염색에 있어서 홍색색소 추출온도가 40$^{\circ}C$에서는 염색 직물의 색상은 자주색(RP), 70$^{\circ}C$이상에서는 주황(YR)색상으로 변화되었다. 다. 염색견뢰도는 탄닌계 염재 및 쪽은 3~4급 이상으로 우수하였으며, 한약재 염재는 대부분이 3급이하로 불량하였다. 라. 주요 한약재 염재의 항균성은 직물별로도 차이가 있지만 소목의 균감소율이 낮기 때문에 항균성이 높았다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.139-153
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.