• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.168-181
• /
• 2004

This research on the present state of production and circulation of boseong-sambae, based on the materials, has been collected and arranged through the survey for one you, 2003. Boseong-sambae, the hemp fabric produced at Boseong, hold 35% of nationwide production volume and 50% of circulation volume. The products of hemp include hemp fabrics, shroud, contemporary Korean dresses and other household articles. Dried hemp skin, hemp thread and hemp fabrics are traded at the fair held in every five days, mostly by direct transactions which is trusted between the producers and consumers. A bolt of boseong-sambae includes 20 ja(a Korean foot, 60cm in length) of hemp fabrics in breadth of 35cm. The price of a bolt is approximately 2∼3 hundred thousand won. They are endeavoring to revive hemp fabric that the image was lost due to the cheap and coarse fabrics woven with Chinese thread since the latter half of 1990's. The advanced countries have invested positively in this business because hemp is an environment friendly material. Thus, a strong national support is demanded in this field facing a crisis due to the inundating of coarse hemp products from China, and the aging problem of the initiate, the reason of the discontinuation of the inherited technique. Through this research understanding tire present station and the problem of hemp production, the future research will be followed expecting the Renaissance of the Korean traditional hemp fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.23-32
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.11-17
• /
• 1985

This paper aims to examine the variety of the absorption of cotton, T/C and hemp fabrics seperately seperaterly sized by rice, wheat, potato, corn flour and pp.V.A.. Experimental variables occurring in the concentration of sizing agents, the water content of unsized fabrics and an iron temperature show the following results, 1. When fabrics sized, the rate of absorption increases according to the order of rice, corn, pp.V.A., potato, wheat flour for cotton fabrics, of rice, corn, pp.V.A., wheat, potato flour for hemp fabrics and of the rice, pp.V.A., potato, corn, wheat flour for T/C fabrics : rice flour shows an absorption rate highest among all the others mentioned above. 2. To a certain extent, the stronger the concentration of sizing agents, the higher the rate of absorption. 3. The higher fabrics density, the higher absorption rate. 4. The structure and hydrophilic property of the sized fabrics affect the rate of absorption. 5. The fabrics with water content of 20% before sizing it shows the rate of absorption highest. 6. An iron temperature after sizing fabrics shows the rate of absorption highest at the properest at the properest one : $180^{\circ}C$ for cotton, $150^{\circ}C$ for T/C and $200^{\circ}C$ for hemp fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.31-38
• /
• 1987

This paper aims to examine the velocity of water absorption of cotton, hemp, and T/C fabrics sized by rice, wheat, potato, corn flour and pp.V.A.. Experimental variables such as the concentration of sizing agents, the moisture regain of unsized fabrics and the ironing temperature showed the following results. 1. When the fabrics were sized, the velocity of water absorption increased according to the order of corn, rice, potato, wheat flour and pp.V.A. for cotton fabrics, of corn, potato, rice, wheat flour and pp.V.A. for hemp fabrics, and of corn, wheat, rice, potato flour and pp.V.A. for T/C fabrics; corn flour showed the highest velocity of water absorption and pp.V.A. did the lowest among all the others mentioned above. 2. The higher fabric density, the higher velocity of water absorption. The finer the count of fabric yarn, the higher velocity of water absorption. 3. The material of sized fabrics most affected the velocity of water absorption than other factors of those. 4. To a certain extent, the higher the concentration of sizing agent, the higher the velocity of water absorption. 5. The fabrics with moisture regain of 20% before sizing showed the highest velocity of water absorption. 6. The ironing temperature after sizing fabrics mentioned below showed the highest velocity of water absorption; 180$^{\circ}C$ for cotton, 200$^{\circ}C$ for hemp, and 160$^{\circ}C$ for T/C fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.729-742
• /
• 2005

This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.27-38
• /
• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.49
• /
• pp.85-94
• /
• 1999

The fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb in the Kaya period were examined. Most of fabrics examined were composed of hemp and silk. Considering that silk was found in the old tomb of the Kaya period in the late 5th century and that various kinds of silk were used in the other area silk was assumed to be used before 5th century in the Kaya period. Only the structure of the densely plain weaved fabrics were analysed as silk and the other physical properties of the fabrics could not be the examined fabrics were plain weaved and altered structure with twill and plain weaving were found indicating that diverse weaving structures were used in the Kaya period. This indicate a certain level of cultural exchange between Kaya and Silla PaikJae, Kokuryo and weaving technique were almost similar in the Korean peninsula in the 5th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.41-53
• /
• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.4
• /
• pp.367-372
• /
• 2001

Five kinds of commercial ramie and hemp fabrics were treated with cellulase under different concentrations. Samples were mercerized before enzyme treatment to investigate the effect of mercerization on cellulase enzyme treatment. Physical characteristics(weight loss, tear strength retention, wrinkle recovery, drape stiffness, dyeability) of cellulase enzyme treated and untreated samples were measured and compared. X-ray diffractions were examined to verify if there were any changes in their crystallinity of enzyme treated fabrics. Weight loss, wrinkle recovery and degree of crystallinity increased as the concentration of cellulase enzyme increased. In the meanwhile, tear strength retention and drape stiffness and dyeability decreased. Enzyme activity was more effective on mercerized samples. Particularly, there was distinct tendency to increase weight loss and flexibility.