• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.33-50
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• 2014

Investigations on the symbolic role, spiritual health benefits and efficacy of the clothing items of the Ga wolomo (chief priest) have received little attention. Highlighting the relevance of these clothes, this paper focuses on the chief priest's dress code for his appointment, confinement, ordination, ceremonial and daily life activities. Data were collected through content analysis, participant observation and interviews with people from selected Ga communities, such as La, Teshie and Ga Mashie. The findings revealed that the selection of the chief priest is confirmed with a special clothing item. His traditional clothes and adornment also have meanings, importance and symbolic interpretations; explained in their uses, colour and style. As the spiritual head, the role of the chief priest's costume is very distinguished and symbolic in executing his duties; protecting, strengthening faith, confidence and assurance during spiritual healing, and when solving pertinent problems in the community. The paper concludes by recommending further research and documentation on other aspects of the Ga clothing culture, such as hand items and hair styles from the pre-colonial period to the present.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.29-42
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• 2000

It has long been believed that European clothing style has been developed independently without the Eastern influence. This deductive assumption has limited the understanding about the contents of Eastern clothing style, and there has only been limited studies on the Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern clothing to be considered as merely exotic and relatively unimportant. Therefore, a thorough study and understanding of the contents of the Eastern clothing style and its influence on the western world is very much needed. The objective of this study is to see how the clothing of the Islamic Osman Turk had influenced Europe during the Gothic and Renaissance period and to find the relationship between the development of the East and West clothing style. This study also has the purpose of re-evaluating the importance of the Eastern culture in the present multi-cultural global era of the 21 st century. The most typical clothing of the Osman Turk was kaftan and other traditional clothing included narrow pants and head dress. Through trade, war and other channels, the Turkish influence changed the styles and colors of previous European fashion that can be characterized by the simple designs of tunic and mantle into a dynamic dress culture. Cotehardie adopted the styles of the Turkish kaftan. The new weaving techniques enabled new clothing such as Pourpoint, Houpplelande made of brocade and velvet with elegant patterns come into European fashion. Also, head dresses, which before were not used except for religious reasons were widely worn. As such, Turkish fashion gave significant influence on the development of European clothing style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.167-180
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.77-95
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• 1998

The culture of a country is formed by the sense of value of a nation being a creator as well as on operator of the culture. So, the Chinese culture and fruthermore, the sense of value the Chinese people can be understood through the study of the costume of China. Above all, the culture of China, including the costume, have been formed through the his-tory of exchange between the central Chinese people and its surrounding minority races, and it should not be overlooked that its own culture of each race is existing with each other in the great Chinese culture sphere. In the paper, the concept of costume as relections of a culture is confirmed through the examination of the characteristics of the costume of the Miao tribe with such history and culture as a background and on effort is made to take those as resources modern fashion designs while inferring from them the characteristics of costume with universal and original values sthat can be sublimated into the modernistic beauty. The results of the study are as follows. First, the basic composition consists of a simple jacket made in a way of straight-cut-ting and a close pleated skirt and it tended to put emphasis on diversified and splendid decorations compared with the simple basis composition. Second, the costume of the Miao tribe are characteristic of hair done in a knot with head-dress around head. Third, the kinds of dress are multifarious by race and region due to a long period of mobile and disperse life. In the course of studying the universal value of the Miao tribe is confirmed which is by no means inferior to the standard of the medernistic beauty which keeping its originality. The study is made to be helpful for activating the design going with the trend that the basic harmony between the nature and man, that is a climate and the local cul-ture hearing formed a splendid culture in the past, are being found again.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.246-251
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• 1999

Headdress which adorns the head has been used not only as a type of dress but also as a vehicle to express the human's mentality and a tool to convey ideas. This study first examines the type of headdress observed in the world folk costumes and investigates their geographical distribution and aims to examine how the types of headdress are inter-related to the peoples' natural environments, way of life and cultural background such as religion and aesthetic, ethical standards. Headdress used as important elements of many peoples' folk costumes can be categorized into scarf-type, hat-type and adornment-type. Veil-type, the one of scarf-types, was developed in Southwestern Asia and Arabic Africa influenced by natural and religious factors. This type is more simplified in Turkey and Eastern Europe and only covers head and neck in the former and only head in the latter while also being called 'headkerchief-type'. Hat-type is observed in many different parts of the world. Adornment-type has been used to symbolized one's noble social status and authority in societies dominated by shamanistic cultural background; it was also used in Far East out of the motivation to fulfil one's aesthetic desire. Headdress though it was originally made from the idential purpose of wearing, has developed into the various types affected by each people's natural environments, emotion and ways of life.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.153-168
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine, specifically, the external and internal characteristics of anti-fashion expression in the Korean student movement after the 1945 Liberation. The dress expressed in the student movement represented the purity of student and characterized resistance, and this character expressed strongly in 80s, faded from middle of 90s. Until the 60s, the student movement was not characterized by, so activist students wore dress and suits. It symbolized students as an elite group of society. They added on head-bands to express resistance. In the 70s, activist students wore school uniforms, school military training wear, blue jeans and loose shirts in demonstrations. They tried to express re-bellion against the government and the older gen-eration. In the 80s, the period was remarkably distingusihing by the economic growth at that time. Activist students wore T-shirts with Korean letters and popular paintings specially made, Korean costumes, wrapped in the Taggeuki (Korean national flag), and refused wear on jeans because of anti-Americanism. They also wore masks, muffled their faces, and got their heads shaved. These anti-fashions are very strong expressions for the national independence spirit, national traditional heitage, anti-foreign power and anti-American. In the early 90s, activist students wore reformed Korean costumes specially made group uniforms, after that they wore casual everyday clothes with caps. They tried to express remarkable resistance in the early 90s, but after the mid-90s expression of resistance weakened and faded, so there was no distinction between activist and non-activist. There are the reasons why the student movement changed after the peaceful transfer of political power.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.77-98
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• 2024

The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.