• 제목/요약/키워드: Hat string

검색결과 6건 처리시간 0.021초

처용무복포의 연구(I) -구조적 특징과 변천을 중심으로- (A Study on the Costumes of Ch'oyong Dance(I) - focus on the structure and change-)

  • 박진아;조우현
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.129-143
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    • 1997
  • This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.

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영국 로열 패밀리의 모자 패션에 나타난 조형성 연구 (A Study on the Characteristics of the Hat Fashion of the British Royal Family)

  • 김은영;이미숙
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제18권4호
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    • pp.28-44
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat fashion worn by the British royal family. The research range has been limited to hats which Elizabeth II, Camilla Parker Bowles, and Kate Middleton wore from April 29, 2011 to April 11, 2014 when Kate Middleton married Windsor Prince William and became part of the royal family. The methods of the research were: previous studies and literature about the royal family were referred to, the function and types of hats were considered, and then the plasticity of the designs seen in hat fashion of the royal family were analyzed. The results are as follows: first, the shape of the hats of the British royal family: Three-dimensional shapes(84.2%) were the most frequent, the detailed shape of the hat Canotier(33.5%), Boater(12.7%) and Bowler(10.3%) had greater frequency. Second, the color of the hats were W(13.7%), Bk(10.5%), Y(9.8%), B(9.6%), YR/PB(9.4%) and RP(9.2%) color. The Color Combination is the Monochrome Color(62.3%), Analogous Color(16.1%), Accent Color(13.2%) and Complementary Color(8.4%) were most frequent. Third, the material of the hats were Felt(44.5%) and Straw(40.3%) were used most frequently. Finally, the decoration of hats were: Flowers(25.7%), String(25.0%), Ribbon(18.4%) and Feathers(17.9%) were the most common. This study can be utilized as basic data for effective styling and design ideas in the field of total fashion.

국립민속박물관 소장 19~20세기 갓끈 재질 조사: 호박, 대모, 플라스틱, 유리를 중심으로 (Investigation of the 19th~20th century Hat String Materials at the National Folk Museum of Korea: Amber, Tortoise Shell, Plastics, Glass)

  • 오준석;이새롬;황민영;노수정;이영민;박성희;임성희
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제51권4호
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    • pp.66-83
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    • 2018
  • 갓끈은 조선시대 남성용 모자인 갓을 고정하는 실용적인 면과 함께 사용하는 재료의 다양화에 따라 신분을 나타내는 장식적인 구실도 하여, 금, 은, 옥, 마노, 호박, 명박, 산호, 청금석, 수정 등 다양한 고급 재료가 사용되어 왔다. 19세기 말 개항과 함께 근현대로 넘어오면서 갓끈의 재질이 어떻게 변천되었는지, 국립민속박물관 소장품 중 19~20세기 갓끈에 대해 재질을 조사하였다. 갓끈의 재질을 분석한 결과, 전통적인 재질로는 호박, 대모, 나무, 대나무가 사용되었으며, 상아, 유리(소다유리, 납유리, 알칼리혼합유리)와 19세기 이후 발명된 신소재인 플라스틱(셀룰로오스 나이트레이트, 페놀-포름알데히드, 폴리스티렌, 아크릴)이 갓끈 장식에 새롭게 사용되었다. 갓끈의 중앙 장식, 구슬, 대롱에 사용된 재료는 대모가 가장 많이 차지하며, 대나무, 나무, 호박 순으로 전통 재료의 사용 빈도가 높았다. 대나무는 대롱으로 사용하여 다른 재질의 중앙 장식과 구슬을 조합한 갓끈이 많아, 흥선대원군 집정시 의관과 문물의 간소화시책에 따른 죽영이 유행을 보여주고 있다. 호박은 갓끈의 중앙 장식과 구슬에 사용되었으며, 산지는 한국에서 발견되고 있는 호박 유물과 마찬가지로 유럽의 발틱 호박으로 동정되었다. 갓끈에 사용된 유리는 고대부터 조선시대까지 한국에서 출토되거나 전승되어온 소다유리나 알칼리혼합유리도 사용되었지만, 납유리에서는 Na2O가 검출되어 한국에서 발견되는 납유리 성분에서 벗어난 특징을 보여주어, 개항 후 해외에서 들어온 새로운 공예용 유리로 추정된다. 셀룰로오스 나이트레이트나 페놀-포름알데히드 등과 같은 플라스틱은 서구에서와 마찬가지로 전통재료인 대모, 호박, 산호 등을 대체하는 새로운 합성재료로써 도입되어 사용되고 있음을 보여주고 있으며, 셀룰로오스 나이트레이트는 열화에 의해 균열과 미세 균열, 부서짐과 황변이 관찰되고 있었다. 국립민속박물관 소장 19~20세기 갓끈 재질에 대한 조사를 통해, 개항이후 전통적인 재료의 사용과 함께, 대모나 호박과 같은 천연재료를 대체하기 위해 유리와 플라스틱과 같은 신소재의 도입이 확인되었다.

한국장신구의 사치 금제 고찰 (A Study on Luxury Prohibition of Korean Personal Ornaments)

  • 추원교
    • 디자인학연구
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    • 제2권1호
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    • pp.43-62
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    • 1989
  • The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

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조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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≪난중일기≫에서 본 이순신의 꿈과 인격의 몇 가지 측면: 분석심리학적 입장에서 (Dreams of Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545-1598) in Nanjung Ilgi (Diary in War Time) and Some Aspects of His Personality: From Jungian Viewpoint)

  • 이부영
    • 심성연구
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    • 제37권2호
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    • pp.99-148
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    • 2022
  • 이순신 ≪난중일기≫를 중심으로 이순신의 인격의 몇 가지 의식적 측면을 살펴보고 이순신의 꿈을 분석심리학적으로 해석함으로써 무의식의 목적의미를 추론하고자 하였다. 그의 인간성은 알려진 바와 같이 충, 효를 철저하게 실천했고 나라를 위해 헌신한 영웅의 상과 일치한다. ≪난중일기≫에는 그의 강직함과 함께 매우 인간적인 감성, 오해와 정치적 박해를 겪어야하는 말할 수 없는 고통, 절망과 고독, 육친을 잃은 통곡이 숨김없이 묘사되고 있다. 일기쓰기와 이순신의 '아니마'의 또 다른 표현인 달밤의 시, 피리와 거문고 소리, 그리고 또한 불가해한 꿈을 보고 점을 쳐서 미래를 알아봄으로써 그는 그의 고독을 스스로 치유했다. 미래의 영웅을 키우고 이끌어준 어머니의 위대한 역할과 융이 말하는 모성콤플렉스와의 관계를 살펴보았고, 이순신이 평생 괴로워한 '흉인', 원균이 이순신의 '그림자'로서 이순신이 의식화해야 했던 무의식의 열등한 인격이었다고 추정했다. 이순신의 죽음을 둘러싼 추측은 근거 없는 것으로 확인되었다. ≪난중일기≫에 기술된 이순신의 꿈 중 꿈의 내용이 조금이라도 기술된 꿈 32개와 이순신의 조카 이분(李芬)이 남긴 ≪이충무공행록≫에 수록된 꿈 3개, 총 35개를 살피고 특히 원형적 꿈을 분석심리학적 입장에서 해석하였다. 그 결과 첫째로 받은 인상은 꿈이 이순신에게 '신격에 의해 선택된 사람'이라는 사실을 되풀이 알려주고 있다는 사실이다. 이순신은 이를 바로 그대로 받아들이지 않았다. 그러한 태도 때문에 오히려 자아의 팽창에 빠지지 않았다. 동시성 현상이라고 할 수 있는 꿈과 이에 대한 이순신의 태도를 소개했다. 건강을 해치거나 편견에 빠질 위험을 경고하는 꿈도 있었고 '아니마'상, '자기'의 상징, 창조적 변환의 상징도 꿈에 나타났다. 그리고 무엇보다 그가 왕권을 행사할 수 있는 자격을 갖춘 사람임을 시사하는 꿈이 있었다. 그는 이를 몰랐거나 알았더라도 그런 생각에 관심이 없었을 것이다. 왜냐하면 그는 현세적 왕보다 더 위대한 호국신이 될 것이기 때문이다. 이순신은 항상 천명(天命)을 살폈다. 그리고 천명은 그를 영웅의 길로 인도하면서 영웅신화에 불가결한 고행의 시련을 주었다. 박해자와 위로하는 자가 함께 그의 길을 인도했다. 그의 어머니, 원균, 선조, 그리고 영의정, 유성용까지 모두 이순신 영웅신화를 구체화하는데 기여했다. 이순신은 죽고 신이 되었다.