• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.22-32
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to know the pattern of Hanbok Jegory with measuring Jegory and studying manufacturing method of the Jegory used currently. It is a purpose to find constitutional problem caused by the character of the bending somatotype and, to study the standard model of the Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age, by comparison of this fitness for bending-somatotyped women in old age. The results obtained are as follows; 1. The kinds of measurements considered in manufacturing process are Hwajang Length, Bust girth, and the skirt length. The length of Jegory and width of Neck are also considered. 2. Manufacturers consider somatotype the most important thing when they make Jegory for women in old age. Front length, Back length and Width of the Jegory are considered secondly important. 3. The results of the comparison show that the Standard Hanbok drafting method is not suitable for drafting Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age. 4. The suitability test for the model designed by the above methods shows that it fits in bending somatotyped women in old age better than standard drafting method. The results show the superiority of the above methods especially in the breast width, the Godae length, and the adaptedness to the body.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.189-203
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• 2014

In this study, Creative motifs using face composition of Jogakbo and Knot Symbol were developed, and applied to traditional Baeja of Joseon Dynasty to develop design contents of traditional clothes. As for study method, 7 motifs of new formative image that integrates traditional beauty and contemporary sense were developed by applying Knot Symbols and face compositions of Jogakbo with the use of Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 vector graphic software. The motifs were designed in contemporary image in face compositions like rectangle pattern, triangle pattern, dual rectangle pattern, vertical and horizontal pattern, pinwheel pattern, gojunmun pattern and free pattern by involving various changes like repetition, rotation, reduction, expansion and decomposition and using the colors used in the Jogakbo. It is desired that through this study, traditional Baeja may develop to bear traditional and contemporary image so that our traditional clothes design may become global. Also it is anticipated that this study will contribute to development of culture products of Hanbok like Jeogori, pants and skirt that require change of design in the global era while maintaining traditional beauty to appeal to the emotions of world citizens.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.123-139
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• 2003

This study examines the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect through field study and various documents. The purpose of the study is to elucidate how their religious ideas are reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteritics and underlying meanings these costumes have, and I reached the following conclusions 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs in their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups turned out to have certain characteristics in common: they all reflected the times, Korean tradition, ancestor worship. 3. I looked at the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme to establish their structural characteristics, and it turned out that they an symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, for instance, had to do with Buddhism Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common type of costume consisted of traditional hanbok top, pant, robe, and some type of headpiece for men, and hanbok top and, skirt for women, and if women were to wear a robe, it usually meant the sect believed in sexual equality. There was also a tendency to simplify or minimize the dress code, which seems to indicate that the sect was trying to adapt itself to, the times. The most common type of the outer garment for men was a robe with narrow sleeves, straight lapel, and no slits, and a robe with wide sleeves, straight lapel, and slits for women. The color scheme of the costumes included blue, white, yellow, red, and black, reflecting the influence of the Yin-Yang and Five Elements idea and traditional preference for white of Koreans. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various element of traditional Korean outfit and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas. Many religions in and fall, and each has its own dress codes, and I hope this study provides a framework and data for other researchers and leaders of new religious groups that will emerge in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.128-136
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• 2002

This research was designed to study the Korean dress design trends and different kinds of ancient patterns applied to the Korean dresses in 2001. The trend sources were collected by the HANBOK monthly journal and the symbolism of patterns associated with these patterns being used the prevalent Korean dress collection in markets. The results of the research can be summarized as following; The most of Korean dress image was elegant of ancient mode. Main colors of the traditional Korean jacket were white, yellowish white and green. However, main color of the traditional Korean skirt was represented as red. A plant pattern was the most popular pattern in a practical purpose. It looks beautiful and it is also easily manufactured with open space. Copying other patterns definitely damage the elegance of the Korean dress. It is time for us to not only keep our own traditions but also study and develop new patterns. Designers must study to develop the image and patterns which are agreed with consumer's taste.