In the fashion industry, cultural borrowing-often championed for promoting diversity-is notably prevalent in the editorials of fashion magazines. However, when scrutinized through a postcolonial lens, this practice reveals a tendency to reinforce Western power structures. This study focuses on instances of orientalism and cultural appropriation within editorials featuring Hanbok in domestic licensed fashion magazines, examining the implications of such instances. The findings reveal three key aspects: first, the creation of a sensual female image intertwining sexual fantasies about Asian women with enigmatic Hanbok aesthetics; second, the utilization of traditional culture, including Hanbok, in luxury fashion's premiumization strategies, thereby perpetuating stereotypical images through self-exoticization; and third, a decontextualization trend that presents traditional cultures and Hanbok from diverse origins together, irrespective of context. This research contributes to the literature by addressing postcolonialism and cultural appropriation, specifically offering insights into the media's role in the modernization of traditional culture in the long term.
Hanbok is a our own history and tradition and is an icon of Korean history and culture. Today, the costumes are moving around the world fashion trend due to the development of mass media and internet at the same time. This is an important clue to marketing activities and can be used for predictive analysis. Although Hanbok is changing little by little every year, research on the trend of Hanbok is rare. This study analyzed the results of searching for 'Hanbok' as a keyword in Portal Site Naver and posting a customized purchase of Hanbok for marriage between 2016 and 2017. The analysis was based on analyzing the photos uploaded, and analyzing purchase reason in the On-line review. Most buyer of Hanbok purchased for prepare marriage. The choice of a customized hanbok is mostly to search online or to use the fair. The most important factor in choosing a custom Hanbok that appeared in online reviews is color and then price. The color of the jacket is mostly light color and the off-white color is the most used and the long skirt such as the pink system, the chorale system and the red system, and it can be seen that the pink skirt is overwhelmingly large. In the design of Hanbok, The sleeves were straight and narrow, and the length was the chest line. The collar were enlarged and widened. 고름 used the sole color instead of the jacket and skirt color, and it was narrow not long. skirt's pleats was wide, and designed to overlap with double color of the fabric.
Hanbok, a traditional Korean clothing, became a hip culture for young people in the late 2010s. As hanbok brands for young people appeared and distribution channels changed for them, hanbok appeared on the crowdfunding platform. This study summarized characteristics of hanbok provided as rewards by funding projects in Wadiz, the largest crowdfunding platform in Korea. Results of this study are as follows. First, since the first successful crowdfunding in 2015, it has shown rapidly growth. Second, as a result of examining the name of reward hanbok, 167 reward hanbok appeared. They could be divided into three periods: women's hanbok, unisex hanbok and trendy hanbok period. Third, looking at characteristics of reward hanbok from each period, feminine Chollic onepiece during the women's Hanbok period adopted the feminine interpretation of the original men's Hanbok. Characteristics of reward hanbok during the Unisex Hanbok period are in the direction of the closure. By adopting the direction of the closure of hanbok that both men and women can use, unisex hanbok is appeared. Finally, reward hanbok during the trendy hanbok period reflected trends such as genderless and hip. Hanbok reflected various trends from home culture to COVID-19 that occurred around the world at that time.
This study examines the characteristics and recent changes of the Hanbok industrial cluster in Gwangju Metropolitan City, in order to understand the problems in the activation of the Hanbok industry and to seek future policies. A total 32 companies comprise the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' and were surveyed with a 41 questions with questions in four categories. The Gwangju Hanbok area has been in existence for more than 40 years and was composed of small groups of one or two manufacturers. They are experiencing the same difficulties as other Hanbok clusters, such as the aging of workers, the downturn of dress culture, and changing consumption paradigms. However, since 2015, various efforts have been made in order to seek countermeasures to cope with such difficulties, particularly with the foundation of the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' with the support of the Ministry of Small Venture Business. This study focuses on the alterations in the current Hanbok industry due to the IT industrialization as well as the changes in the locations of the Hanbok clusters due to the revitalization of old towns by local governments., The results providing an opportunity to appreciate the problems therein and seek the solutions. Small manufacturers of the Hanbok cluster are trying to improve their entrepreneurship, digital technology application, and knowledge in accordance with the socio-economic trends, but they have limitations to practically apply it to business, barely keeping the minimum production base. The central government and the Gwangju should reinforce and expand the support for marketing and public relations for the Hanbok to foster the designer population, to establish mutual brands, to raise brand awareness, and to promote the technological perfection of the individual businesses, to allow them to cope with the current market trends, in order for the technological development and firm settlement of the local Hanbok industrial cluster.
Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.
This study conducted in-depth interviews with experts to implement Hanbok shows on metaverse, which can contribute to the succession and development of Hanbok design and to establish a platform that fits the reality of the Hanbok industry and consumers. In-depth interviews were conducted to collect opinions from experts, and the derived contents were divided and analyzed using an affinity diagram. Experts were positive about the use of the metaverse platform of the Hanbok show in terms of impact, accessibility, exposure, virtual fitting, issuance of NFTs, and promotion of Hanbok brands. As a result of verifying the validity of the four components of metaverse, experts highly evaluated the possibility of using Hanbok shows in the order of virtual reality, augmented reality, mirror world, and lifelogging. Visuality, influence, marketing efficiency in virtual reality, immersion in augmented reality, fantasy and artistic elements, expression, diversity, and abundant experiences were expected. The platform's requirements emphasized realistic implementation equipment and technology, collaboration between Hanbok designers and producers, in addition to government support. Results of this study showed that appropriate target was analyzed to be in the 10-30s, and the appropriate price range was found to be able to sell at a discount of 40-80% compared to offline. This study provides useful implications for the service development of metaverse content, which will also be actively used in the Hanbok field, and can be used as basic data for reviving the Korean Hanbok industry and strengthening international competitiveness.
The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the New-Hanbok styling of online shopping mall, and to also suggest a solution to the problems of the New-Hanbok styling and develop a progressive plan. The research method was to search six keywords related to 'Hanbok' in the search portal 'Naver' and select 14 Hanbok brand companies. A total of 412 pictures of products for the model used on main screen were analyzed among 14 companies. The results of analyzing the New-Hanbok styling are as follows. First, the New-Hanbok styling showed the unstructured characteristics like unconventional arrangement after getting out of the fixed form of traditional Hanbok styling elements. Secondly, diverse images were represented as the hairstyle and makeup were highlighted as the elements of New-Hanbok styling. Thirdly, the new, fresh, trendy, and fashionable New-Hanbok styling was shown through the mix-and-match of traditional Korean-style accessories and fashion jewelries. However, regarding the New-Hanbok styling shown in online shopping mall, the overlapped items were especially found while the difference in material, pattern, and color required to overcome this problem was insufficient. It was lacking in the styling consistency for the establishment brand image while the awareness of the importance of accessory styling was insufficient. The brand competitiveness of the New-Hanbok could be secured by raising awareness on differentiation, consistency, and importance through the styling elements such as item composition, material, pattern, color, hairstyle, makeup, and accessory of brand.
In the diverse modern era, individuals are actively striving to develop and demonstrate their capabilities . As a means of cultivating interest in hanbok and differentiatedabilities , there exists a national qualification verification for hanbok technician. This study focuses on using Saekdong-jeogori pattern that is suitable for design and allows for accurate pattern production in a short time for beginners taking the practical test for hanbok technicians. We analyzed five experimental Saekdong-jeogori patterns, from which the final patterns for research were derived through appearance tests on the first table evaluation and the second outfit evaluation. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-1 for research utilized the body values presented by beginners taking the hanbok technician qualification verification, while the rest were calculated or applied using equivalents. The godae point and armhole depth were calculated based on the chest circumference, and the armhole curve, sleeve shape, doryeon line, and sleeve-end were drawn, regardless of the changes in the figures, using equal parts. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-2 provided activity by vertically lowering the side line from the end of the armhole, and the keotseop line was drawn by moving 1 cm from the width of the Kit to the armhole line. The seopko was raised 0.2 cm from the keotseop reference line and0.2cm , and was supplemented by its connection to a natural curve.
The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men's Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.
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