Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Hanbok Imagery in Domestic Fashion Magazines -A Postcolonial Perspective-

국내 라이선스 패션 잡지에 나타난 한복 이미지 -후기식민주의 관점을 중심으로-

  • Jieun Lee (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Eunhyuk Yim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 이지은 (성균관대학교 의상학과) ;
  • 임은혁 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Received : 2023.11.24
  • Accepted : 2024.04.08
  • Published : 2024.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In the fashion industry, cultural borrowing-often championed for promoting diversity-is notably prevalent in the editorials of fashion magazines. However, when scrutinized through a postcolonial lens, this practice reveals a tendency to reinforce Western power structures. This study focuses on instances of orientalism and cultural appropriation within editorials featuring Hanbok in domestic licensed fashion magazines, examining the implications of such instances. The findings reveal three key aspects: first, the creation of a sensual female image intertwining sexual fantasies about Asian women with enigmatic Hanbok aesthetics; second, the utilization of traditional culture, including Hanbok, in luxury fashion's premiumization strategies, thereby perpetuating stereotypical images through self-exoticization; and third, a decontextualization trend that presents traditional cultures and Hanbok from diverse origins together, irrespective of context. This research contributes to the literature by addressing postcolonialism and cultural appropriation, specifically offering insights into the media's role in the modernization of traditional culture in the long term.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahern, S. (2017, February 15). Karlie Kloss apologizes for controversial Geisha Vogue spread. Variety. https://variety.com/2017/biz/news/karlie-kloss-vogue-spread-apology-1201989137/
  2. Bhabha, H. K. (1983). The other question: the stereotype and colonial discourse. Screen, 24(6), 18-36.
  3. Bhabha, H. K. (2012). The location of culture (B. C. Na, Trans.). Somyeong. (Original work published 2002)
  4. Beom, S. H., & Yim, E. H. (2015). Homage characteristics in fashion photography: Focusing on Tim Walker's editorial fashion photography. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(4), 67-81.
  5. Cheang, S., De Greef, E., & Takagi, Y. (2021). Rethinking fashion globalization. Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
  6. Cho, S. H. (2022, November 20). 가장 동시대적 한복이란 [What is the most contemporary Hanbok]. Vouge Korea. https://www.vogue.co.kr/2022/10/20/%EA%B0%80%EC%9E%A5-%EB%8F%99%EC%8B%9C%EB%8C%80%EC%A0%81-%ED%95%9C%EB%B3%B5%EC%9D%B4%EB%9E%80/
  7. Chun, K. S. (2000). Representing colonialism and nationalism in the Korea museum. Korean Society of Museum Studies, 3, 159-201.
  8. General, R. (2020, March 3). Chinese fashion designer sparks outrage after 'Appropriating' sacred Tibetan art. Nextshark. https://nextshark.com/guo-pei-thangka-tibetan-art-appropriation
  9. Han, S. W. (2022, September 26). '청와대 논란' 이후…보그가 한 달 만에 공개한 한복 화보, 진짜 이 갈았다 [After the 'controversy of Cheongwadae'... Hanbok editorial released in a month by Vogue]. Wikitree. https://www.wikitree.co.kr/articles/792467
  10. Heo, S. H. (2022). How have K-pop idols come to occupy the cover of licensed fashion magazines? [Unpublished master's thesis]. Korea University.
  11. Hinton, P. R. (2013). Returning in a different fashion: culture, communication and changing representations of 'Lolita' in Japan and the West. International Journal of Communication, 7, 1582-1602.
  12. Hogans, K., & McAndrews, L. (2022). Away from violence toward justice: A content analysis of cultural appropriation claims from 2013-2020. Fashion Practice, 15(2), 1-25.
  13. hooks, b. (1992). Black looks: Race and representation. South End Press.
  14. Hoskins, T. E. (2014). Stitched up: The anti-capitalist book of fashion. Pluto Press.
  15. Jeong, S. H. (2019, March 8). 세계 첫 AI 여성 앵커, 또 동양인 비하?, 스타벅스 컵 사려고 밤샘 [World's first AI female anchor, another disparagement of East Asians?, pulling an all-nighter to buy Starbucks cups]. Newspim. https://www.newspim.com/news/view/20190308000448
  16. Jung, S. Y., & Lee, I. S. (2014). Study on the editorial fashion styling of Korean image: Focusing on Vogue Korea. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association, 16(4), 37-47.
  17. Karentzos, A. (2019). Traveling fashion: Exoticism and tropicalism. In E. Gaugele, & M. Titton (Eds.), Fashion and postcolonial critique (pp. 230-245). Sternberg Press.
  18. Kawamura, Y. (2006). Japanese teens as producers of street fashion. Current Sociology, 54(5), 784-801.
  19. Kawamura, Y., & Marc de Jong, J.-W. (2022). Cultural appropriation in fashion and entertainment. Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
  20. Kim, E. J. (2011). Licensed fashion magazine from the perspective of globalization: Based on Vogue Korea [Unpublished master's thesis]. Korea University.
  21. Kim, H. J. (2007, February 15). 한(韓)스타일(HanStyle) 육성종합계획(2007~2011) 발표 [The HanStyle cultivation comprehensive plan (2007-2011) announcement]. Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. https://www.mcst.go.kr/kor/s_notice/press/pressView.jsp?pSeq=8462
  22. Kim, H. L., & Kim, H. Y. (2022). A study on fashion design applying Po(袍) of the Joseon dynasty period based on cultural convergence. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 22(1), 81-101.
  23. Kim, H. W. (2022, December 14). '일본식 가옥' 적산가옥서 한복 홍보영상 촬영 논란 [Controversy over filming Hanbok promotional video at 'Japanese-style house' Jeksan house]. Ilyosisa. https://www.ilyosisa.co.kr/news/article.html?no=237603
  24. Kim, K. R. (2014, February 16). 호미 바바 '문화의 위치' [Homi Bhabha, 'The location of culture']. Gwangjudream. http://www.gjdream.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=453136
  25. Kim, M. J. (2009). 한국적 패션 디자인의 제다움 찾기: 전통미와 현대적 활용을 중심으로 [Finding the Je-daum of Korean fashion design: Focusing on the aesthetics of tradition and its modern adaptations]. Snupress.
  26. Kim, S. Y. (2013). Glocalism trend in the pictorials of domestic licensed fashion magazines. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 13(1), 47-69.
  27. Kim, Y. K. (2010). A study on formative characteristics and aesthetic values of Hanbok shown in print media since 2000 [Unpublished doctoral dissertation]. Ewah Womans University.
  28. Kinsella, S. (2000). Adult manga: Culture and power in contemporary Japanese society. Curzon Press.
  29. Ko, M. H. (2020, November 6). 멕시코 원주민 디자인 갖다 쓴 佛디자이너?...정부가 해명 요구 [French designer uses Mexican indigenous design?...Government demands explanation]. Yonhapnews. https://www.yna.co.kr/view/AKR20201106002600087?input=1195m
  30. Ko, Y. J., & Yim, E. (2023). Authenticity of utilizing Korean traditional culture in luxury fashion: The case of Gucci. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 23(1), 35-51.
  31. La Torre, V. (2021, November 18). Dior pulls photo in China show criticised for 'smearing Asian women' by portraying a woman with 'spooky eyes' and a 'gloomy face'. South China Moring Post. https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/article/3156455/dior-pulls-photo-china-show-criticisedsmearing-asian
  32. Lee, C. H., Han, J. M., & Kang, H. S. (2017). A study of component changes in Han-bok form 2000 to 2015: Based on women's Han-bok images from internet newspapers. Communication Design Association of Korea, 60, 348-362.
  33. Lee, H., & Lee, K. (2019). Comparative analysis of fashion characteristics on the cover of domestic licensed fashion magazines: Focused on ELLE, VOGUE, W. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 21(1), 1-12. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2019.21.1.1
  34. Lee, J. A. (2009, January). Dressed in Hanbok. Vogue, 182-195.
  35. Lee, J. A. (2011, January). Winter flowers. Vogue, 206-223.
  36. Lee, J. A. (2015a, October). New Korean Faces. Vogue, 410-421.
  37. Lee, J. A. (2015b, February). La traviata. Vogue, 256-269.
  38. Lee, J. A. (2017, January). 2017. Vogue, 154-177.
  39. Lee, J. S. (2019, April 15). History erased by enlightenment romance. Cauon. http://news.cauon.net/news/articleView.html?idxno=33021
  40. Lee, J.-S., & Choi, N.-Y. (2007). Analysis of the costumes and make-up expressed in main characters of Kabuki, traditional Japanese theater: Focusing on Kabuki costumes exhibited in Japanese embassy in Seoul. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 13(1), 41-52.
  41. Lee, M., & Yim, E. (2020). Cultural appropriation and representation in the contemporary fashion industry. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 70(4), 54-64. http://dx.doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2020.70.4.054
  42. Lee, N. N. (2022). A study on the causes of decline in the market of the fashion magazine in Korea: Focused on the license global fashion magazine and the local fashion magazine [Unpublished master's thesis]. Hanyang University.
  43. Leong, N. (2013). Racial capitalism. Harvard Law Review, 126(8), 2151-2226.
  44. Metamorphose. (n.d.). Styling #825. https://metamorphose.gr.jp/en/product/7511
  45. Ngai, N. (2023). Sugar and spice (and everything nice?): Japan's ambition behind Lolita's Kawaii aesthetics. Media, Culture & Society, 45(3), 545-560. https://doi.org/10.1177/01634437221126082
  46. Noh, H. (2004). A comparative study on the articles of domestic licensed fashion magazines [Unpublished master's thesis]. Ewha Womans University.
  47. Oh, M. S. (2017). 현대문학이론의 길잡이 [A guide to modern literary theory]. Siindongne.
  48. Oxford Reference. (n.d.). Cultural appropriation. Oxford Reference. https://www.oxfordreference.com/display/10.1093/oi/authority.20110803095652789?rskey=3hkmvA&result=1
  49. Park, S. K. (2001). Ambivalance and hybridity in Postcolonialism. The Journal of Criticism and Theory, 6(1), 85-110.
  50. Park, S. Y. (2016, July 29). 인기몰이 중인 '합법적 로리타 소녀 모델', 그 요인은? [The 'legal Lolita girl model' gaining popularity, what's the reason?]. Osen. http://www.osen.co.kr/article/G1110464907
  51. Paulicelli, E. (2022). Fashion and race: Translating cultures in Dapper Dan and Gucci. In E. Paulicelli, V. Manlow, & E. Wissinger (Eds.), The Routledge companion to fashion studies (pp. 475-487). Routledge.
  52. Prickett, S. N. (2011, October 7). SNP's word of the day: Orientalism. Fashionmagazine. https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/snps-word-of-the-day-orientalism/
  53. Robertson, R. (1992). Globalization: Social theory and global culture. SAGE.
  54. Roushan, A. (2021, December 16). Japan's miss universe contestant draws flak From netizens for wearing 'deadly Costume'. Republicworld. https://www.republicworld.com/world-news/rest-of-the-world-news/japans-miss-universe-contestant-draws-flak-from-netizens-for-wearing-deadly-costume.html
  55. Said, E. W. (2000). Orientalism (H. G. Park, Trans.). Kyobomungo. (Original work published 1978)
  56. Said, E. W. (2011). Culture and imperialism (S. G. Kim & J. H. Jeong, Trans.). Chang. (Original work published 1993)
  57. Seo, M. J. (2019, October 26). 복고 인기 편승한 개화기 콘셉트..."일제시대 미화 우려" [Retro popularity rides on the enlightenment period concept… "Concerns over glorifying the Japanese colonial era"]. Yeongnamilbo. https://www.yeongnam.com/web/view.php?key=20191026.010060708140001
  58. Shin, P., & Lee, H. (2017). Study on the Lolita complex of Korea girl group's school look image fashion. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 19(4), 365-372. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.4.365
  59. Skov, L. (2003). Fashion-nation: A Japanese globalization experience and a Hong Kong dillemma. In S. Niessen, A. M. Sandra, C. Leshkowich, & C. Jones (Eds.), Re-orienting fashion: The globalization of Asian dress (pp. 215-242). Berg.
  60. Stewart, D. (2014, March 10). Ugh: White model Dons tribalstyle face paint for Vogue Italia shoot. Jezebel. https://jezebel.com/ugh-white-model-dons-tribal-style-face-paint-forvogue-1540349251
  61. The figure of winter. (2018, January). W. 89-91.
  62. Welters, L., & Lillethun, A. (2022). The fashion reader. Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
  63. We rule the street and this is our home. (2017, October). Vogue, 294-311.
  64. Woman in blossom. (2012, May). Vogue, 428-430.
  65. Woo, D. B. (2022, December 12). 해외에서 부는 'K-사극' 열풍…이유는? [Why did 'K-historical drama' become popular overseas?]. Hankookilbo. https://www.hankookilbo.com/News/Read/A2022120810120004554?did=NA