• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in "Moment in Peking" is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, "In the Mood for Love" introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.62-76
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.

• Proceedings of the Korean Geotechical Society Conference
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• 2005.03a
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• pp.41-48
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• 2005

A small scale impact apparatus, pressuremter and soil chamber were used to investigate horizontal behavior and bearing capacity of the steel guardrail post installed in compacted soil. A useful test and data reduction method for pressuremter was developed to evaluate soil parameters of surrounding soil and stability of the post. From the analyses of the PMT, horizontal bearing capacity of the post impacted by a boggie was 12.7% bigger than that of the post with static loading. The increased horizontal bearing capacity is due to generated inertia force that is dependent on the shape of failed soil wedge around the post. P-y curves were obtained from the pressuremeter test and were applied to a finite difference program which predicted a load-deflection and a bending moment contours along the post.

• International Journal of Railway
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.91-93
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• 2014

In these days, use of proper soils for construction materials become more limited, but wasted soils are abundant; therefore, the method which can use wasted soil such as soft clay has been investigated. Air-foamed stabilized soil has been used widely, but never been used as a subgrade material. The aim of this study is to verify the use of air-foamed stabilized soil as the subgrade construction material. Several wasted soils such as soft clay was selected to make air-foamed stabilized soil mixtures. The air-foamed stabilized mixture design was conducted to find the optimum quantity of stabilizing agent (cement) and air-foamed, and the effect of cement quantity and air-foamed quantity on strength of air-foamed stabilized soil mixtures base on the test results of unconfined compression test was investigated. As the quantity of cement is increased, the strength is increased, but the quantity of air-foamed is increased and the strength is decreased. Elastic moduli based on unconfined compression strength were obtained to use as subgrade of railway track design.