• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.205-232
• /
• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1 mg/ml UA or 0.1-1 mg/ml ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) was measured . The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1 mg/ml UA and 0.5 mg/ml ONA) at 6 h more than $20\%$ compared to vehicle treated group (p<0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from f week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent $(ONA{\geq}UA>Vehicle)$. LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Veh). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;\alpha$. Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either $ONA\;(10{\mu}M)$ or UA $(10{\mu}M)$ for 24h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via $PPAR\;{\alpha}$. Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.834-839
• /
• 2007

밀가루의 3%, 6%, 9%, 12%를 미나리가루로 대체한 castella를 제조하여 최적의 비율을 알아보고, 대체 비율에 따라 castella의 비중 및 비용적, 색도와 조직감, 관능적 특성을 통해 품질 특성을 평가하였다. 미나리가루의 첨가는 castella의 비중을 증가시켰는데 미나리가루가 12% 첨가된 DP 12의 비중이 가장 높았고, 나머지는 첨가량이 줄어들수록 유의적으로 낮아졌다. 비용적은 첨가량이 많아질수록 낮게 나타났다. 색도에서 L값은 미나리가루를 첨가한 castella보다 대조구가 가장 높은 값을 나타냈으며, 미나리가루 첨가량이 많아질수록 낮아졌고, a값은 미나리가루 첨가량이 증가할수록 미나리가루의 색소 성분의 증가로 인하여 녹색이 증가한 것으로 사료된다. 조직감 측정 결과는 견고성, 접착성, 씹힘성에서 미나리가루가 9% 첨가된 DP 9가 가장 높게 나타났고, 응집성은 첨가량이 증가할수록 낮게 나타났다. 하지만 탄력성에서는 유의적인 차이를 나타내지 않았다. 관능검사 결과는 castella의 속질색과 껍질색이 대조구에 비해 진했다. 기공의 크기는 미나리가루 첨가랑이 많아질수록 작아지고, 기공의 균일성은 미나리가루 첨가량이 많아질수록 일정했다. 견고성은 미나리가루 첨가량이 많아질수록 높게 나타났고, 미나리가루의 맛도 첨가량이 많아질수록 높게 나타났다. 전체적인 기호도는 미나리가루 9%가 첨가된 DP 9가 가장 높게 나타났으며 유의적인 차이를 보이지 않았다. 미나리가루 첨가에 대한 기능적인 측면에서는 9%를 첨가한 DP 9나 12%를 첨가한 DP 12가 좋겠지만, 재료비 대비 측면에서는 미나리 가루를 3% 첨가한 DP 3이 미나리가루 첨가의 적정량으로 보여진다.e)에 있어서는 검은콩 청국장 가루를 10% 첨가한 BC10시료가 가장 높은 점수를 받았는데, 이 결과는 청국장 냄새가 강하지 않고 촉촉한 정도(moistness)나 부드러움(softness)에 있어서도 무첨가 마들렌과의 차이가 가장 적기 때문으로 사료된다. 이상의 결과를 통해 검은콩 청국장 가루 첨가 마들렌 제조 시 10%를 첨가하는 것이 조직과 관능 특성 상 적정 첨가량임을 알 수 있었다.과 통신탑재체 및 통신탑재체와 CBSSIM을 연동시키는 PCTS를 포함한 HITL시뮬레이터의 설계 및 구현 내용에 관해 기술한다.에 관해 기술한다.와 관련된 involucrin, loricrin, filaggrin의 단백질 발현이 최소한 2-3배 이상 증가함을 HaCaT 세포에 UA와 ONA(각 10$\mu$M)를 24 h 처리 후 실험 결과로 확인할 수 있었다. 이런 결과를 토대로 UA와 ONA가 장벽기능 향상뿐 아니라 PPAR $\alpha$를 통한 표피 각질세포 분화를 유도함을 제시할 수 있었다. Masson-trichrome과 elastic fiber 염색법을 통해서, UA와 ONA 도포에 따른 콜라겐섬유의 비후(thickening)와 엘라스틴섬유의 신장(elongation)을 조직 사진으로 확인하였다. 시험관 시험을 통한 콜라겐 및 엘라스틴 합성실험과 엘라스틴 분해효소에 대한 저해능 평가를 통해 진피에 대한 UA와 ONA의 효과를 확인할 수 있었다. 이런 결과들을 토대로 UA와 ONA는 피부장벽기능 유지뿐 아니라, 진피 내 콜라겐섬유와 엘라스틴섬유 합성을 촉진하는 것을 관찰할 수 있었다. 이 결과로부터, UA와 ONA는 장벽기능 및 진피강화에 관여할

• 한국응용약물학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국응용약물학회 2007년도 Proceedings of The Convention
• /
• pp.79-92
• /
• 2007

Oxidative stress have known to be a risk factor for the degenerative processes and closely related to a lot of diseases. It is well established that antioxidants are good in protection and therapeutic means against oxidative damage. There is increasing interest in natural antioxidants and many natural antioxidants have been found and utilized as the possible protection for various diseases and skin aging. We have screened natural antioxidant agents for cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and drugs as therapeutic and preventive means against oxidative stress, and have developed a number of novel antioxidants from various natural sources. A novel melanin synthesis inhibitor, Melanocin A, isolated from the metabolite of a fungal strain Eupenicillium shearii F80695 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis of B16 melanoma cells with $IC_{50}$ value of 9.0 nM and MIC value of $0.9\;{\mu}M$, respectively. Melanocin A also exhibited potent antioxidant activity by scavenging of DPPH and superoxide anion radicals. UV was found to increase the level of hydrogen peroxides and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin tissues. This increase in ROS may not only alter the structure and function of many genes and proteins directly but may also modulate their expressions through signal transduction pathways and, ultimately, lead to skin damage. We investigated the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced premature skin aging. Firstly, the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT in vitro was investigated. Acute UV irradiation induced MMP-9 expression at both the mRNA and protein levels and Melanocin A suppressed this expression in a dose-dependent manner. We then investigated UV-induced skin changes in hairless mice in vivo by Melanocin A. Chronic exposure of hairless mouse dorsal skin to UV increased skin thickness and induced wrinkle formation and the gelatinase activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, Melanocin A significantly suppressed UV-induced morphologic skin changes and MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression. These results show that Melanocin A can prevent the harmful effects of UV that lead to skin aging. Therefore, we suggest that Melanocin A should be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and/or treating premature skin aging. Terrein is a bioactive fungal metabolite isolated from Penicillium species. Terrein has a relatively simple structure and can be easily synthesized. However, the biologic effects of terrein are comparatively unknown. We found for the first time that terrein potently inhibit melanin production in melanocytes and has a strong hypopigmentary effect in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Treatment of Mel-Ab cells with terrein (10-100 mM) for 4 days significantly reduced melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, terrein at the same concentration also reduced tyrosinase activity. We then investigated whether terrein influences the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which is required for tyrosinase expression. Terrein was found to induce sustained ERK activation and MITF down-regulation, and luciferase assays showed that terrein inhibits MITF promoter activity in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate the correlation between ERK pathway activation and a decreased MITF transcriptional level, PD98059, a specific inhibitor of the ERK pathway, was applied before terrain treatment and found to abrogate the terrein-induced MITF attenuation. Terrein also reduced the tyrosinase protein level for at least 72 h. These results suggest that terrain reduces melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production via ERK activation, and that this is followed by MITF down-regulation.

• 대한화장품학회지
• /
• 제49권3호
• /
• pp.203-212
• /
• 2023

본 연구는 땅콩의 부산물로 폐기되는 겉껍질의 기능성 화장품 소재 활용 가능성을 검토하고자 수행하였다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물의 DPPH 및 ABTS 라디칼 소거능 및 SOD 유사활성 IC₅₀값은 각각 75.00, 46.33, 및 472.83 ㎍/mL으로 조사되었다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물 처리에 따른 MMP-1, MMP-3, 및 procollagen의 단백질 발현 정도를 측정한 결과, 농도 의존적으로 MMPs 단백질 발현량이 감소하였고, procollagen 단백질은 정상대조군 수준을 유지하였다. 주름 억제 효능을 검정한 결과, 추출물의 elastase 및 collagenase 저해활성 IC₅₀ 값은 각각 0.30 및 0.09 mg/mL로 양성대조군보다 낮았다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물에서 분리한 eriodictyol과 luteolin의 elastase 및 collagenase 저해 활성을 분석한 결과, 0.1 mg/mL 처리농도에서 eriodictyol과 luteolin은 각각 53.8 및 98.0%의 elastase 저해 활성을 보였으며, collagenase 저해 활성은 각각 60.1 및 72.5%로 조사되었다. 이를 통해 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물의 주름억제활성 유효성분은 luteolin일 것으로 사료되었다. 또한, 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물이 함유된 로션 및 크림 제형의 온도 조건 및 온도 순환에 따른 pH 및 점도를 측정한 결과, 유의미한 변화 없이 안정적인 제형임을 확인하였다. 이를 통해 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물이 주름 억제를 위한 화장품 소재로 적용 가능할 것으로 판단되었다.