Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Evaluation of Anti-wrinkle Effect of Peanut Shell Extract and Stability of the Extract in Cosmetic Products

땅콩 겉껍질 추출물의 주름개선 효능 및 화장품 제형에서 추출물의 안정성 평가

  • Narae Han (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration) ;
  • Jin Young Lee (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration) ;
  • Mihyang Kim (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration) ;
  • Eun Young Choi (Department of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Daegu Haany University) ;
  • Bong-Jeun An (Department of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Daegu Haany University) ;
  • Yu-Young Lee (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration) ;
  • Moon Seok Kang (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration) ;
  • Hyun-Joo Kim (Department of Central Area Crop Science, National Institute of Crop Science, Rural Development Administration)
  • 한나래 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과) ;
  • 이진영 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과) ;
  • 김미향 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과) ;
  • 최은영 (대구한의대학교 화장품약리학과) ;
  • 안봉전 (대구한의대학교 화장품약리학과) ;
  • 이유영 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과) ;
  • 강문석 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과) ;
  • 김현주 (국립식량과학원 중부작물부 수확후이용과)
  • Received : 2023.06.09
  • Accepted : 2023.08.27
  • Published : 2023.09.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study was conducted to investigate the possibility of peanut shell, a by-product of peanut, as a functional cosmetic ingredient. Peanut shell extract showed high antioxidant activity with IC50 values of 75.00, 46.33, and 472.83 ㎍/mL for DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging and SOD-like activity, respectively. Furthermore, peanut shell extract was efficiently decreased the MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein level in the UVB treated-HaCaT cell and maintained procollagen protein level similar to normal control. Similar to anti-wrinkle related protein expression assay, the IC50 value of elastase and collagnease inhibition in peanut shell extract was lower as 0.30 and 0.09 mg/mL, respectively, than that of the positive control. Additionally, eriodictyol and luteolin, which are isolated from peanut shell extract, showed 53.8 and 98.0% elastase inhibition rate, respectively, and 60.1 and 72.5% collagenase inhibition rate, respectively, at a concentration of 0.1 mg/mL. Thus, luteolin was assumed to be the effective ingredient for wrinkle inhibition in peanut shell extract. As a result of stability evaluation of lotion and cream formulations containing peanut shell extract, it was confirmed to be a stable formulation with no significant changes. Therefore, it is considered that peanut shell extract can be applied as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle inhibition.

본 연구는 땅콩의 부산물로 폐기되는 겉껍질의 기능성 화장품 소재 활용 가능성을 검토하고자 수행하였다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물의 DPPH 및 ABTS 라디칼 소거능 및 SOD 유사활성 IC50값은 각각 75.00, 46.33, 및 472.83 ㎍/mL으로 조사되었다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물 처리에 따른 MMP-1, MMP-3, 및 procollagen의 단백질 발현 정도를 측정한 결과, 농도 의존적으로 MMPs 단백질 발현량이 감소하였고, procollagen 단백질은 정상대조군 수준을 유지하였다. 주름 억제 효능을 검정한 결과, 추출물의 elastase 및 collagenase 저해활성 IC50 값은 각각 0.30 및 0.09 mg/mL로 양성대조군보다 낮았다. 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물에서 분리한 eriodictyol과 luteolin의 elastase 및 collagenase 저해 활성을 분석한 결과, 0.1 mg/mL 처리농도에서 eriodictyol과 luteolin은 각각 53.8 및 98.0%의 elastase 저해 활성을 보였으며, collagenase 저해 활성은 각각 60.1 및 72.5%로 조사되었다. 이를 통해 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물의 주름억제활성 유효성분은 luteolin일 것으로 사료되었다. 또한, 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물이 함유된 로션 및 크림 제형의 온도 조건 및 온도 순환에 따른 pH 및 점도를 측정한 결과, 유의미한 변화 없이 안정적인 제형임을 확인하였다. 이를 통해 땅콩 겉껍질 추출물이 주름 억제를 위한 화장품 소재로 적용 가능할 것으로 판단되었다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 논문은 농촌진흥청 연구사업(과제번호: PJ014303012023) 및 2023년도 농촌진흥청 국립식량과학원 전문연구원 과정 지원사업에 의해 이루어진 것임.

References

  1. J. Y. Lee and J. M. Lee. Analysis of rcent research trends in development of functional cosmetic materials for wrinkle improvement, J. Converg. Inf. Technol, 11(6), 181 (2021). 
  2. Y. J. Cho, Characteristics of cosmetic with whitening compounds from Phellodendron amurense, J. Appl. Biol. Chem., 54(2), 108 (2011). 
  3. S. J. Kim, W. J. Oh, S. P. Kwon, and G. Nam, Studies on anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture, J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci. Korea, 47(4), 341 (2021). 
  4. J. H. Lee, J. I. Kim, H. J. Choi, and J. H. Lee, Anti-wrinkle effect of Schizandra chinensis bailoon fermented with Lactobacillus plantarum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci. Korea, 40(4), 365 (2014). 
  5. E. Moon, J. Jeon, G. Lee, M. Baik, and D. W. Lee, Effect of isoquercitrin-containing Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract on skin wrinkle improvement, J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci. Korea, 44(2), 191 (2018). 
  6. R. Bodoria, M. C. Cittadini, Y. Rossi, M. Montenegro, N. Martinez, and D. Maestri. An overview on extraction, composition, bioactivity and food applications of peanut phenolics, Food Chem., 381(1), 132250 (2022). 
  7. FAOSTAT. FAO Statistical Databases; FAOSTAT: Rome, Italy (2014). 
  8. M. Y. Kim, H. J. Kim, M. H. Kim, J. Y. Lee, Y. Y. Lee, and B. K. Lee, Changes in physiological activities of peanut and defatted peanut extracts according to cultivars, J. Korean Soc. Food. Sci. Nutr., 48(8), 847 (2019). 
  9. J. Yang and C. Kwak, Inhibitory effect of Aralia elata etanol extract against skin damage in UVB-exposed human keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts, J. Nutr. Health., 49(6), 429 (2016). 
  10. M. M. Younis, I. M. Ayoub, N. M. Mostafa, M. A. EI Hassab, W. M. Eldehna, S. T. AI-Rashood, and O. A. Eldahshan, GC/MS profiling, anti-collagenase, anti-elastas, anti-tyrosinase and anti-hyaluronidase activities of a Stenocarpus sinuatus leaves extract, Plants(Basel), 11(7), 918 (2022). 
  11. N. Y. Park, D. G. Han, GE-GE, M. J. Bae, H. J. Kim, S. G. Kim, E. Y. Choi, and B. J. An, Verification of antioxidant activity from velvet bean (Mucuna pruriens) extract, J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci. Korea, 49(1), 9 (2023). 
  12. N. Han, J. Kim, J. H. Bae, M. Kim, J. Y. Lee, Y. Y. Lee, M. S. Kang, D. Han, S. Park, and H. J. Kim, Effect of atmospheric-pressure plasma on functional compounds and physiological activities in peanut shell, Antioxidants, 11(11), 2214 (2022). 
  13. J. H. Oh, E. H. Kim, J. L. Kim, Y. I. Moon, Y. H. Kang, and J. S. Kang, Study on antioxidant potency of green tea by DPPH method, J. Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., 33(7), 1079 (2004). 
  14. Y. E. Kim, J. W. Yang, C. H. Lee, and E. K. Kwon, ABTS radical scavenging and anti-tumor effects of Tricholoma matsutake Sing. (pine mushroom), J. Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., 38(5), 555 (2009). 
  15. H. K. Kim, G. M. Na, S. H. Ye, and H. S. Han, Extraction characteristics and antioxidative activity of Schiznadra chinensis extracts, Korean J. Food Culture., 19(5), 484 (2004). 
  16. J. H. Kim, D.Gao, W. S. Jeong, C. T. Kim, S. W. Cho, H. M. Kim, and J. S. Kang, Anti-wrinkle effect of Isatisindigotica leaf extract: Evaluation of antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and clinical activity,Antioxidants, 10, 1339 (2021). 
  17. H. Mechqoq, S. Hourfane, M. EI Yaagoubi, A. EI Hamdaoui, J. R. G. da Silva Almeida, J. M. Rocha, and N. EI Aouad, Molecular docking, tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase inhibition activities of argan by-products, Cosmetics, 9(1), 24 (2022). 
  18. J. Qiu, L. Chen, Q. Zhu, D. Wang, W. Wang, X. Sun, X. Liu, and F. Du, Screening natural antioxidants in peanut shell using DPPH-HPLC-DAD-TOF/MS methods, Food Chem., 135(4), 2366 (2011).