• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1019-1034
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.29-41
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to improve the fitness of clothes by producing patterns considering body proportions at a time of producing clothes for export through extracting factors comprising body types and conducting comparative analysis of proportions by body part using body indexes of Korean women in their 20s living in both Korea and foreign countries. The study results are as follows. Factor analysis by group was conducted for body indexes in order to examine body types of Koreans living overseas. As a results, six factors were extracted from all of three groups; Joseonjok(Koreans living in China), Goryeoin(Koreans living in Russia) and Korean residents in Japan, and their explanatory powers were 60.42%, 63.62%, 63.15%, respectively. Obesity factor was extracted as the 1st factor, and the groups showed differences in other factors. As a result of proportion comparison using body indexes of Koreans living in foreign countries and Korea, it was found that, in height item, when regarding the height as 100, the length of the lower part of the body was long in the order of Goryeoin. Joseonjok, Koreans living in Korea and Korean residents in Japan. Also in width item, when regarding the waist as a standard, it was observed that Joseonjok people have the shoulders, the breasts and the hips that look relatively wider comparing with the width of the waists because they have very narrow waists and the width between shoulder length is big. In addition, the study examined proportions of the breast thickness/the breast width, the waist thickness/the waist width, the hip thickness/the hip width to height. From the analysis, it was found that breasts of Koreans living in Korea are flattest while their waists are slender, and Goryeoin and Joseonjok have round body shapes from the waist to the breast.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.115-126
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of older women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which featured 453 women between the ages of 70-85. A factor analysis was performed of 31 indices, including seventeen based on height and length measurements, eight based on circumference measurements, and six based on torso flattening. The torso shape was determined from seven factors: torso flatness ratio, shape of the side upper torso, vertical size of upper torso, silhouette of the torso, silhouette of the bust and abdomen, shape of the hip, and the vertical size of the back of upper torso. The torso shapes of older women were classified into three types based on the results of the factor analysis. Type 1 is called the large rectangle type. They have the lowest degree of forward bend in the torso, the largest vertical and horizontal size, a round body shape, and the upper torso is gently curved. Type 2 is called the inverted triangle type. They also have a round body shape, but the abdominal size is relatively small compared to the size of the bust, and also have an open and drooping bust, and the biggest degree of forward bend in the torso. Type 3 is called the square type. They are characterized by drooping hips, the smallest vertical and horizontal sizes, and the gentlest curve of the torso.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 2003

With rapid expansion in e-retailing of apparel business, the virtual fitting model is used for comparing fit of the selected garments. The researchers experimented women's perceived body size for developing virtual fitting model. 50 women who were 20's in age were participated in the experiment They were graduate students with clothing & textile major. The results of this study showed that the subjects perceived themselves with fuller figure at waist or hips and with shorter figure at waist height than their actual body site. Many subjects believed that their body sizes were close to the average site. Especially, subjects whose abdomen girth of hip girth was much larger than average thought that they have relatively flat abdomen. It was concluded that not only the user's body measurements but also user's perception on their figure type are needed to be considered in the process of developing virtual fitting model for e-retailing of apparel. It was expected that the virtual fitting model of extraordinary size body would not be accepted by the female consumers even though they are extra large or small size person in reality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.1-19
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• 2004

With a view to providing the basic data of clothing manufacturing for Chinese women in their 20s residing in Ningbo City, Zhejiangsheng, China, this study analyzes their upper-body types. With the subjects of 192 female adults(age 20 to 29), the following conclusions were made: 1. According to the Chinese standard classification, all body types except C were seen: A(58.33%), Y(40.63%), and B(1.04%). 2. According to the Korean standard classification, body types appeared in the order of H(68.75%), N(29.17%), and A(2.08%). 3. $R\ddot{o}hrer$ index was 1.23 belonging to the ordinary somatotype. The distribution was ordinary(60.42%), slim(38.54%), and fat(1.04%). 4. The subjects were 158.62cm(height), 83.54cm(bust), 65.77cm(waist), and 87.50cm(hip). 5. No significant differences were noticed in all the items except waist breadth around age 24. 6. Compared with Korean counterparts, Chinese females were a little shorter, had bigger bust, similar waist, and smaller and flatter hips. 7. Seen in the side somatotype classification, a standard body type was revealed with $24.50^{\circ}$ of a slightly-leaning shoulder gradient. 8. Seven factors were produced in the present analysis, and five body types in the group analysis turned out to be standard.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 2008

In this research, female adults in ages 25 to 34 that reside in Shanghai, China, have been polled from 29th of December, 2007 to 2nd of February, 2008 in accordance with simple random sampling method. 210 women have been selected and polled. Of these, 10 who responded in appropriately were excluded and the remaining 200 were used in the final analysis. The questionnaires used in this poll were made up of ones that are about how they wear tailored suits and how much they are satisfied with them, and questions about demographical characteristics. SPSSWIN 12.0 Program was used as the analysis method in getting statistics and descriptive statistical analysis, t-test, and $x^2$ analysis have been performed. The summary about the Chinese female adults is as follows: 1. They prefer jackets with design, style, and quality that better fit them to the ones with a name brand and a lower price. 2. They prefer shoulder princess style jackets with short lapel color lengths and slacks with a basic style in waistline. 3. When wearing jackets they feel uncomfortable in all regions and were not satisfied. 4. All responded that they have an experience of having the jackets mended after purchasing them and a high frequency of mending was shown along the waistline, hips, and leg lengths.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the design features appropriate for the altered physical characteristics of pregnant women and formulate the direction of future design and development of maternity wear. A Delphi research method based on a panel of experts and pregnant women was used and the survey was conducted to determine the suitability of maternity wear. The survey found that A-line silhouette outerwear with round necklines, with wide sleeves and snap-button fastening on the front with a formal and decent look was considered appropriate as maternity and postpartum wear. Shirts and blouses long enough to cover the hip area to complement women's curvy and full figures, especially around the bust, waist, and hip areas during the later stages of pregnancy were found to be appropriate. Calf-length pleated skirts were comfortable to wear during pregnancy due to the abundant freedom of movement and space offered by pleats. Ankle-length straight leg pants were rated appropriate in terms of comfort and style both during late stages of pregnancy and at work postpartum. Dresses decorated with pleats from the armholes all the way down to the knees were found to provide high levels of comfort at the abdomen, chest, and hips, and considered appropriate. Based on this study results, a follow-up study will be conducted to examine the design of maternity wear during pregnancy as well as at work after pregnancy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.145-154
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze University Woman Students' recognition of their physical bodies and the effects that their recognition has on their image and satisfaction of their physical bodies. The result of study is as follows. 1) According to the result of the analysis of the difference between University Woman Students students' practical physical sizes and ideal sizes, it was showed that their heights and burst should be larger than their practical physical sizes but their waist, hip, and weight should be reduced.2) According to the result of the analysis of the factors for the evaluation of University Woman Students students' behavioral body images, Factor I was 'Management of Appearance', factor II was 'Management of Weight' and Factor III was 'Satisfaction of Appearance'. Considering the result of correlation of factors of the body images, it was showed that the more interest they had on their appearances, the more management they had on their weights. 3) They had comparatively positive recognition on their physical bodies. However, regarding their degrees of the satisfactions on their physical parts, they showed somewhat dissatisfaction on all the items of their physical parts. 4) According to the result of the analysis of the correlation between their recognition of the physical types and their satisfaction of them, it was showed that they had more satisfactions when their heights were higher and their weights were lighter. In addition, it was showed that they had more satisfaction when they had larger busts and regarding their waists, hips, upper arms, lower arms, wrists, thighs, and calf measurements, they had more satisfactions when they had thinner ones and regarding their shoulders' measurements, it was showed that they had more satisfactions when they had narrower shoulders' measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.661-670
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate the incidence of sports injury and trend of incidence pattern of national judo athletes. The research method was analyzed based on the records of all injuries experienced by national judo athletes during training and competition for 9 years from 2008 to 2016. A total of 20,345 sports injuries requiring physical therapy were 10,768 (52.93%) for women, 9,577 (47.07%) for men, lower extremities 9,688 (47.62%), upper limbs 5,807 (28.54%), and trunk 4,850 (23.84%) and knee-related injuries (27.82%) occur more frequently than other injuries. Shoulders, feet and back were more frequent in male athletes, and ankle, neck and hand injuries were more common in female athletes. Using the binomial trend line, the trend of the decrease of sports injuries in each area was shown. However, infrequent injuries such as hands and hips tend to increase gradually. The results of this study are expected to be used as a training program for judo athletes' sports injury and basic data.