• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.195-204
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• 2005

본 연구의 목적은 최근 문화 속에서 새로운 가치기준으로 주목받고 있는 취향의 개념을 체계적으로 정리하고, 취향을 중심으로 현대패션에 표현된 룩의 조형성과 미적가치에 대하여 살펴보는 데에 있다. 취향은 개인에 의해 개별적으로 추구되는 삶의 방식이며 선호이자 현대사회 내에서 개인을 구별짓는 중요한 요소이며, 특히 패션은 취향의 차별화를 표현하는 주요 대상이다. 취향이 표현된 룩으로는 시대를 초월한 멋쟁이 취향의 댄디룩과 최근에 새롭게 주목받고 있는 저속한 취항이 표현된 키치룩, 성적 이상 취향이 표현된 페티시룩, 엽기 취향이 표현된 그로테스크룩과 어린 취향이 표현된 키덜트룩 등이 있다. 현대인의 다양한 취향과 그의 표현인 룩은 패션의 향유를 통한 즐거움의 추구이며 현재에 대한 긍정적인, 그리고 미래에 대한 적극적인 기대를 나타내는 상징적 표현이라 할 수 있다. 룩을 통해 패션과 사회는 서로 소통할 수 있으며, 디자이너는 컬렉션을 통해 룩을 효과적으로 제안함으로써 소비자의 취향을 만족시키는 핵심적인 역할을 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과는 취향에 대한 학문적 근거를 제공해 주며, 패션으로 표현된 미적 가치를 보석 줌으로써 문화 속의 취향과 패션의 룩에 대한 해석의 틀을 제공할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.363-371
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• 2019

본 연구의 목적은 빅토르 위고(Victor Hugo)의 <크롬웰, Cromwell,1827> 서문의 그로테스크한 특성을 살피고, 니체의 고대 <그리스 비극>에 나타난 '사티루스(Satyros)'의 그로테스크한 현상을 빅토르 위고의 그로테스크와 차이점 및 공통점을 규명하기 위함이었다. 또한, 빅토르 위고와 니체의 공통점은 중세에 관심이 있었는데, 어떤 차이가 있는지 살펴보고자 했다. 연구의 주요결과는 빅토르 위고의 그로테스크 현상은 니체의 <그리스 비극>에서 디오니소스 극장의 '사티루스'에서 드러난다. 그것을 분류하면 첫째, 외형적인 부분에서 인간과 동물이 혼합된 형상을 한다. 둘째, '사티루스'가 익살스럽고 우스꽝스러운 분위기에서 가면을 그로테스크한 소재로 활용한 부분이다. 그로테스크에 대한 미학적, 철학적 정의가 세기마다 다양한 방법으로 있었지만, 아직도 그로테스크에 대해서 연구가 부족한 실정이다. 향후 후속연구는 시간의 흐름에 따른 사회적 현상에서 세부적인 연구가 진행되야 할 것이다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국콘텐츠학회 2006년도 춘계 종합학술대회 논문집
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• pp.310-313
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• 2006

사람들은 애니메이션을 다른 예술분야와 비교하여 유치하거나 어린이들을 위한 하위문화라고 생각해왔다. 물론 최근에는 이러한 양상이 많이 바뀌었지만 여전히 애니메이션은 문화적 또는 예술적 측면보다는 상업적 측면에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그러나 단편 애니메이션을 중심으로 다양한 실험적 표현들을 사용한 예술적인 애니메이션도 지속적으로 제작되고 있다. 따라서 본 논문에서는 상업적인 측면보다는 실험적이고 작가적 성향이 짙은 퀘이 형제의 애니메이션 특성을 살펴본 후, 그들의 대표작 <악어의 거리>의 크로테스크성을 분석하고자 한다. 또한 그들이 크로테스크한 표현을 통하여 이 애니메이션에서 나타내고자 하는 의미들을 고찰하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제51권3호
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• pp.87-98
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the tattoo look in modern fashion from the aspects of 'expression techniques' and 'aesthetic properties'. Tattoos are one of the body decoration which have been continued for a long time all over the world and have contained various meanings in : invocation. symbolization. solidification, exotic tastes, and body decoration. While tattoos have been progressed for the past time, they have been enlarged into body painting, make-up, and even into body art. Besides, their technical skills and equipments have been also developed. Therefore, tattoos are neither tabooed nor restricted in lower class, such as gangsters, bickers, prostitutes, etc., any longer. They are showed in everywhere of our society, running on the fashion. Specially, in fashion, they are shown through the 'tattoo look' designed by talented fashion designers. Futhermore, tattoos are one of the things which have gotten a new value under the Post-modernism and the turning of the century. The various tattoo looks in modern fashion are classified into four categories, according to the expression techniques, the use of see-through, reappearance of primitive body-decoration, application of tattoo patterns, application of street styles'tattoo patterns, make-up & body painting. And, they are also classified into four categories, according to the aesthetic properties Exoticism, Eroticism, Primitivism, and Grotesque.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• 인문언어
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.109-128
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• 2002

The six fabliaux of the Canterbury Tales are a notable artistic achievement. Of all of them, however, the Merchant's Tale is the most notable to show Chaucer's development of the scope of this genre. We will look briefly at the characters of the fabliau narrators who are crucial to Chaucer's drama of relationships in the course of the Canterbury pilgrimage framework. To distinguish the accomplishment of the Merchant's Tale, we will consider the relative merits of each of the other five fabliaux in the Canterbury Tales. The least flawed of the fabliau narrators, the Merchant will tell a powerful tale about an old man's lust turned into a hasty marriage gone wrong that aims its satire at the noble ruling class of the land, not the usual targets of Chaucer's or most other writers' fabliaux. Further, unlike the light-hearted and dismissable endings of the other Chaucerian fabliaux, the Merchant's Tale has what we will call an Act 6 of continued deception at all corners of the love triangle represented by the senex amans January, his young wife May, perhaps now pregnant after her tryst with Damyan in the pear tree, and the still present young lover Damyan. This triangle of mutual deception will continue into the unknown future under the male and female forces at odds as personified in the king and queen of fairies, Pluto and Proserpina.