• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.71-77
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• 2007

Shoe's size and shape are determined by the last that takes shape of foot because last is the mold of shoe in development and manufacturing process. Then adaptation between foot and shoe is dependent on the last. In mass shoe production, model size is developed in the first place, other sized lasts are made through the grading process based on model size. The most important factor in grading system is grading deviation that must be same amount induced from foot measuring database. At present, most of the last manufacturing companies in korea using 260mm as a standard foot model size. When length grading deviation is 5mm, the ball girth grading deviation is 3.7mm and the ball width grading deviation is 1.2mm. I verified existing grading system by comparing grading results with foot measuring data. Also, I proposed reasonable grading deviation and application method of grading system. From the analysis of foot measuring database, reasonable grading deviations are 1.22mm in ball width and 0.84mm in ankle height in case of length grading deviation is 5mm. I confirmed that the current grading system is very accurate. When we grade last from 230mm to 290mm by current grading system based on model size 260mm, there is grading error over 1mm in the front outside area of foot. This error level of 1mm is no problem in normal walking shoe's last, but it induces adaptation problems in sports and special purposed shoe's last. Therefore using of three standard model size is recommended in grading men's last for reducing grading deviation error under the level of 1mm. It is specifically described as 235mm in 225-245mm, 260mm in 250-270mm, 285mm in 275-295mm. According to the above recommended grading system, it is enough to measure only three foot sizes in case of foot measuring project for men's last development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.749-758
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• 2017

The purpose of the present study is to develop a grading deviation, which is appropriate for the body type of women in thirties, by analyzing the three-dimensional body type. The materials for the study were adopted from the body measurement data of women in the age group of 30 to 39 years old, provided from Size Korea. By reflecting the factor analysis results using the three-dimensional shape measurement, deviations were derived. First, six factors influencing the changes in human body shape were derived as waist-hip length factor, bust-waist shape factor, back protrusion back shoulder factor, bust length factor, shoulder length factor, and frontal waist dart factor. The bust size and height, which can be easily utilized for the top original grading, were used for deriving a regression formula, and the deviation was set in accordance with the result. Second, by applying the deviation which reflects the changes in the body shape, the crimps which were generated due to the application of existing deviation were remarkably reduced, indicating that the grading of the present study is more fitting than the existing one. The deviation derived by the analysis of actual increase and decrease of body size was more fitting than the existing one. This was proved by actual wearing experiment, which represents the significance of this study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.55-64
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the grading practices and size systems of women's apparel industry in Korea and thereby, analyze the grading problems to find their solutions. Compared with other pattern producing processes, the working principles and methods of grading seem to be consistent, repeatable and stable. Therefore, if the grading deviation setting and working method should be standardized and systematized, it is much easier to automate the grading work than other pattern works. Nevertheless, it was found through this study that grading deviation setting or its application depending on body forms or age groups is not systematic. Moreover, since size identifications, basic sizes or intervals differ among apparel businesses, consumers may be confused in selection of the apparels fitting their body forms. Thus, it is deemed necessary to precisely analyze consumers' body sizes and determine on grading gains or losses in consideration of the body forms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.896-903
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the present condition of pants grading and the methods for the specific dimensional increments, a questionnaire has been conducted. For the questionnaire, 16 casual wear brands, which were on higher ranking of sales in Korea, were selected. The results are summarized as follows. Based on the pants grading data resulting from the research conducted on the (16) domestic clothing brands, the grading method could be classified into three different types. According to the criteria; i.e., the front and back divided by crease of pants and the deviation ratio of the grading increments of the waist and the hip girth, the grading types were (1) G1: front 5:5, back 5:5, (2) G2: front 4:6, back 4:6, and (3) G3: front 4:6, back 3:7.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women's wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.646-657
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the problems of brands preferred by adolescents on sizing system and grading method and to provide a basic information for adolescent apparel manufacturers. Brands preffered by adolescents were obtained via a questionnaire from adolescents aged from 13 to 18 in Seoul and finally we selected upper 12 brands out of 20 brands they preffered. Also the graders of 12 brands were surveyed through direct interviews. The results indicated only 2 brands out of 12 brands(such as Adidas and Basic House) manufactured apparels for adolescents and most brands targeted customers in their early twenties as a main target market. As a results of researching the sizing system of 12 brands, women's apparel brands produced two sizes separately for upper and lower garments, unisex apparel brands produced garments in 4${\~}$8 sizes. For most of the brands, each size has a dimensional deviation on the same rate in all parts and 12 brands manufactured garments mainly with a dimensional deviation of 5cm in bust circumference and hip circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.184-195
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• 2017

Baseball is a life sport that gives vitality to people. However, currently available leg guards do not have a variety of sizes and it is very difficult to purchase a leg guard that is suitable for the size of a specific consumer. Therefore, this study investigated the size system of a leg guard sold in the market and suggested a grading deviation suitable for the legs of Korean males. The results of the study were as follows. First, most brands were sold only in three size systems as children's, teenagers, and adults. Adult size systems were not subdivided. Second, Korean male legs were classified into Group 1 (large girth and height and lower body muscle) and Group 2 (small girth and height and low underbody muscle). Third, the size system is based on vertical items such as height and mid-thigh circumference. Each group produced 10 sizes. The smallest height or the largest height was also found to be about 4.5 to 5.0cm smaller or larger than the sample size for each group. The total length of the leg guard was about 2.5cm when the height was increased or decreased by one size. It was confirmed that the deviation of the circumference of the mid-thigh should be about 2.0cm larger or smaller than the sample size even if the height is the same. The deviation of the knee circumference and ankle circumference was smaller than the other circumference. In conclusion, the dimension combinations of the leg guard must be set differently to provide a leg guard with high size suitability according to leg type.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.205-210
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.877-890
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• 2019

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount defined by 17 women's wear brands for a pants item by target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50). This study utilized 6th Size Korea data and a script-based on a 3D scan measurement program to analyze the increase rate of body size in order to suggest a grading deviation distribution ratio for the pants using regression analysis. This study found that most brands appropriately divided grading amount at front thigh girth and back hip girth into the side and center by 1:1. Most brands divided the grading amount at the front hip girth into the side and center by 1:1; however, the ratio found from Size Korea is 0.8:1.2 for the 20-30 age group, 0.7:1.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 0.6:1.4 for the 40-50 age group. Regarding the back thigh girth, the brands targeting 20-30s, 30-40s, and 40-50s respectively assigned the grading amount into the side and center by 1:1, 1:1.2, and 1:1.3. However, the ratio found from Size Korea is 1.4:0.6 for the 20-30 age group, 1.7:0.3 for the 30-40 age group, and 1.3:0.7 for the 40-50 age group. The results can be utilized in improving the grading system of the pants item.

• Journal of Biosystems Engineering
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.607-614
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• 1998

An automatic grading algorithm was developed to replace the manual trading of white ginseng. The algorithm consists of three consecutive stages, (a) image acquisition and preprocessing, (b) mathematical feature extraction, and (c) grade decision using artificial neural network. Mathematical features such as area ratio, mean and standard deviation of graylevel, skewness of graylevel histogram, and the number of run segment are extracted from five equally divided parts of ginseng. An artificial neural network model was used to classify white ginsengs into three categories. The performance of the algorithm was evaluated using 120 ginseng samples and the rate of successful classification was 74%.