• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.154-164
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.21-32
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• 2001

Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.758-769
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제15권
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• pp.96-121
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• 2014

심희수 초상화는 조선 17세기 공신상이며 '종가 보존본'과 '차종손댁 보존본' 2본으로 1980년에 기증되었다. 기존 장황 형태를 그대로 유지하고 있었으나 화견의 결손 및 수해에 의한 얼룩 등 손상 상태가 매우 심각하여 보존처리를 진행하여 원형을 살리도록 복원하였다. 또한 X-ray 촬영 및 XRF, XRD, 그라프 "C" 정색반응 등 다양한 과학적 조사를 통해 재료 및 제작 기법을 조사하였다. 바탕 직물은 정련된 견섬유로 씨실 2줄이 한 쌍으로 날실 1줄로 이루어진 평직으로 되어 있었다. 배접지 분석결과, 1차 배접지는 대나무 섬유의 중국지, 2차 배접지는 닥나무 섬유의 한지로 확인되었다. 안료는 연백, 주사, 연단, 아타카마이트, 먹, 석청, 은, 금 등 다양한 전통 안료를 사용하였음을 알 수 있었다. 채색기법을 조사한 결과 흰색 ^연백·녹색 ^{아타카마이트}·주황 ^연단·흑색 ^먹·황색 ^금 등의 색을 사용하여 배채가 이루어졌음을 확인할 수 있었다. 더불어 X-ray 투과사진에서 먹이나 염료와 함께 연백을 혼용하여 사용하였음을 알 수 있었다.

• 대한치과보철학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.661-678
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to analyze the stress distribution at supporting bone according to the types of endosseous implants. This investigation evaluated the stress patterns in rectangular photoelastic models produced by four different types of dental implants such as $Br\ddot{a}nemark$, screw type of Steri-Oss, blade type of Steri-Oss, IMZ with IMC and resin tooth using the techniques of quasi-three dimensional photoelasticity. All prostheses were casted in the same nonprecious alloy and were cemented or screwed on their respective implants and abutments. 20 kg of vertical load was applied on the central fossa of casted crown and 16 kg of inclined had was applied on the top third of distal surface of casted crown respectively. The results were as follows : 1. Under the vertical load, screw implants of Steri-Oss and $Br\ddot{a}nemark$ showed increasing stress condition between and around the screw threads along the implant lateral surface and cylindrical implant of IMZ showed the less stress condition along the lateral surface with concentration of stress mostly near the root apex. 2. Under the vertical load, the stress of Steri-Oss blade was distributed uniformly at the alveolar bone under the broad blade. 3. Under the inclined load, the stress concentration of Steri-Oss screw and $Br\ddot{a}nemark$ was developed highly around the mesiocervical bone area on the contralateral side to force application. The stress of $Br\ddot{a}nemark$ with flexible gold glod was more concentrated in the cervical bone area than that of Steri-Oss with stiff screw. 4. Under the inclined load, the stress of Steri-Oss blade broadly was distributed around the mesioceivical bone area and the lower and mesial bone area of the blade. 5. Under the Inclined load, IMZ implant showed the gap between c개wn and fixture due ta deformation of the IMC and IMZ was lower in stress concentration developed around the mesiocervical bone area than $Br\ddot{a}nemark$ and Steri-Oss screw. 6. Under the inclined load, the stress magnitude induced in the mesiocervical bone area of implants was in order of $Br\ddot{a}nemark$, Steri-Oss strew, IMZ and Stsri-Oss blade. 7. Tilting forces as compared to axial forces exerted greater magnitude of stress in the cervical bone area of the implant. 8. In respect of stress distribution, Steri-Oss blade was superior than any other implants and in respect of the stability by horizontal lone, IMB and $Br\ddot{a}nemark$ was inferior than any other implants.