• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.503-518
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• 2003

Statement of problem : There have been previous studies about considerable variations in machining accuracy and consistency in the implant-abutment-screw interfaces. Purpose : The purpose of this study was to evaluate the machining accuracy and consistency of implant/abutment/screw combinations on two randomly selected implants from each of four manufactures. Material and methods : In this study, screws were respectively used to secure a cemented abutment, to a hexlock implant fixture ; teflon coated titanium alloy screw(Torq-Tite) and titanium alloy screw in Steri--Oss system, gold-plated gold-palladium alloy screw(Gold-Tite) and titanium alloy screw in 3i system gild screw ana titanium screw in AVANA Dental Implant system, and titanium screws in Paragon System. The implants were perpendicularly mounted in polymethyl methacrylate autopolymerizing acrylic resin block(Orthodontic resin, Densply International Inc. USA) by use of dental surveyer. Each abutment screw was secured to the implant with recommended torque value using a digital torque controller. Each screw was again tightened after 10 minutes. All samples were cross sectioned with grinder-polisher unit(Omnilap 2000 SBT Inc) after embeded in liquid unsaturated polyester (Epovia, Cray Valley Inc) Results : There were the largest gaps in the neck areas of screws in hexagonal extension implants which were examined in this study. The leading edge of the abutment screw thread (superior surface) was in contact with the implant body thread, and the majority of the contacting surfaces were localized to the middle portion of the mating threads. Considerable variation in the contacting surfaces was noted in the samples evaluated. Amounts of contact in the abutment screw thread were larger for assemblies with Gold-Tite screw, gold alloy screw. Torq-Tite screw than those with titanium screws. The findings of intimate contact between the screw and screw seat were seen in all samples, regardless of manufacturers. However, microgap between the head and lateral neck surface of the screw and the abutment could be dectected in all samples. The findings of intimate contact between the platform of the implant and the bottom of the abutment were consistent in all samples, regardless of manufacturers. However, microgaps between the lateral surface of external hex of the fixture and the abutment could be dectected in all samples. Conclusion : Considerable variations in machining accuracy and consistency were noted in the samples and the implant-abutment-screw interfaces were incomplete. From the results of this study, further development of the system will be required, including improvements in pattern design.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

Using non-destructive analytical methods, we identified the material characteristics of two gold fabric artifacts excavated from the Cheongsong Sim clan (Bugeum Wonsam, Jikgeum Chima), including the artifact condition, fiber type, surface contamination, and metallic threads. We found that the artifacts were buried and had turned brown; thus, we were unable to determine their original color. The fiber type was determined to be silk from cocoons, based on scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) analyses of Amide I, II, III, and IV peaks, and color reactions Further, the FT-IR and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses identified the white and black stains as natural resin hydrolyzed substances, such as lipids and proteins, that occurred as microbial decomposition due to body decay. Finally, the XRF analyses identified the thin gold layer of the metallic yarn as gold (Au). According to the FT-IR data and the color reaction to the metallic yarn medium, the adhesive component of the medium was a product of-Amides I, II, III, and 3000 cm^-1 within Amides A and B (an animal type), respectively. Thus, the medium was identified as Hanji (Korean paper), which is made from domestically produced Broussonetia kazinoki fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.153-165
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• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.87-100
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• 2004

This study is to understand the types and characteristics of wool fabrics of the Korea. It classifies the types of wool fabrics whose name can be found in the documents by their weaving methods and it researches their characteristics by type, time, usage, and pattern. In Wool fabric of the ancient age were there compound weaving fabric, such as Gyesoo. which is made with embroidery method, Gyegum, which is made with embroidery in gold threads, as well as general fabric, such as plain-weaved Gal, twill-weaved Sagal, gauze-weaved Mosa, Mora, etc. There were also various weaving methods, such pile-weaved Yung, tapestry-weaved Tabdung, or Guyoo, or Dahm, felt-weaved Jeon, etc. It was found in documents that wool fabric such as Gye, Jeon, Dahm were produced in Korea and China. In case of Korea, wool fabric was enormously developed in Koguryo, Shilla, Balhai, United Shilla. Koryo era. Particularly in Koguryo and Balhai, the stock-farming and hunting were the main parts of their occupation. In Koryo era, the weaving technique of wool fabric had made great development. The wool fabric was used not only in clothing but also in official hats, rugs. wall-tapestries, etc.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.628-640
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• 2004

Statement of problem. Wear as a result of repeated closing/opening cycles may decrease the friction coefficient of screw head, threads, and other mating components and, consequently, resistance to opening gradually decreases. It may cause screw loosening, which is one of the most common failures in implant prosthesis. Purpose. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the changes on the head and thread surface of the abutment screws after repeated closing and opening through the examination of tested screws in SEM(scanning electron microscope). Materials and methods. Five species of abutments were selected (3i-three, Avana-two) respectively by two pieces. The implant fixtures were perpendicularly mounted in liquid unsaturated polyesther(Epovia, Cray Valley Inc.) with dental surveyor. Each abutment was secured to the implant fixture by each abutment screw with recommended torque value using a digital torque controller. The abutment screws were repeatedly tightened and removed 20 times with a digital controller. FESEM (field emission scanning electron microscope, Netherland, Phillips co., model:XL 30 SFEG) was used to observe changes of each part caused by repeatedly closing/opening expeiment. First, the Photomicrographs of pre-test screws provided by each manufacturer were taken. The changes of each screw were investigated after every fifth closing and opening experiment with FESEM. Scaning electron microscope photomicrographs of each screw were taken four times. Results. As the number of closing and opening was increased, the wear or distortion of hexed or squared slot that contacted with the driver tip was more severely progressed. Wear or distortion of hexed slot was more severe than that of squared slot and it was more remarkable in the titanium screw than in the gold screw. All the tested screws showed that the width in the crest of their screw thread decreased gradually as the test was proceeded. Conclusions. Conclusively, we recommend the clinical use of gold screw, a periodic exchanges of abutment screws and avoiding repeated closing/opening unnecessarily. We also suggest a more careful manipulation of the abutment screw and screw-driver and using of abutment screw with an acute-angled slot design rather than an obtuse-angled one. Finally, it is suggested that the new slot design and the surface treatment for enduring wear or distortion should be devised.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.119-130
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• 2007

Statement of problem: A few dry lubricants were applied to abutment screws for the improvement of joint stability. Purpose: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the surface change and fit of TiN-Coated abutment screw through the examination of tested screws in the field emission scanning electron microscope(FE-SEM;Netherland, Phillips co., model:XL 30 SFEG) after repeated closing and opening. Materials and method: Titanium(3i/implant Innovations Inc, USA) and Gold-Tite abutment screws(3i/implant Innovations Inc, USA) were selected for Group A and C respectively. TiN coated titanium abutment screws were also divided into two groups, Group B and D. Abutment screws of each group and the fit of abutment screw/implant fixture/abutment were observed on FE-SEM after repeated closing and opening test respectively. Results: 1. The abutment screws of TiN coated groups(Group B and D) showed more remarkable wear resistance in the threads of the screw than those of the other group(Group A and C). 2. There were more severe wear and defect of TiN coating in Group D tightened to 32 Ncm than Group B to 20 Ncm. 3. There was no difference in the fit of abutment screw/fixture/abutment among four groups, Group A, Group B, Group C and Group D. Conclusion: Under the conditions of this study, it is suggested that TiN coating of abutment screw be clinically acceptable and be expected to reduce the risk of abutment screw loosening. TiN coating of abutment screw showed good resistance against wear and the adequate fit of abutment screw/implant fixture/abutment.