• Title/Summary/Keyword: Gold thread

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Characteristics of Textiles Found in the Pagoda at Naksan Temple (낙산사 공중 사리탑 복장직물의 조형특성 및 시기감정)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.6
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    • pp.29-40
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    • 2009
  • On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

A Study on the Kasaya Remains of Great Monk Seo San and Great Monk Byeok Am, from the Middle Period of Joseon Dynasty (조선 중기 서산대사와 벽암대사의 가사 유물에 대한 연구)

  • Kang, Sun-Jung;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.3
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    • pp.122-138
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    • 2011
  • The present research aims to consider the real remains of 2 suits of Kasaya owned by the Hwaeom Temple(華嚴寺) based on research results about Kasaya in the meanwhile. The present research on 2 suits of remains which are Royal gifts given to monk soldiers in case of a national crisis of the Joseon Dynasty has a big meaning in examining characteristics of Kasaya and grasping characteristics and structure of the 17th century's Kasaya of the Joseon Dynasty through dense survey and analysis according to components. If examining characteristics of Kasaya, the Kasaya of the Great Monk Seo San(西山) is composed on the basis of an initial form of Sun and Moon Light Patch's generation and the Kasaya of the Great Monk Byeok Am(碧巖) has a form that is separately attached through production of embroidery patch as a process of being settled down. If examining what surrounds gold thread in the girth and expression of Sumeru and Chaeunmun(彩雲紋), the composition of a form similar to an insignia badge, so because this is a Royal gift, this can be estimated as being analyzed in a Buddhism aspect by devising a design from the insignia badge at the time, with a meaning like an official uniform given to a monk. Although the insignia badge is a square, it seems that the Sun and Moon Light Patch is made as a rectangular form corresponding to the structure of Kasaya. In addition, it is thought that what the Samjoko(三足烏) idea which is a symbol of the Sun based on Buddhism and Taoism is used together with Yijoko(二足烏) even in expression of the Sun and Moon Light Patch in the Joseon Dynasty which was a Confucian country has a relationship with what a bird was expressed in the insignia badge of winged animals.

Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from unknown Woman's Tomb, Incheon (인천시 석남동 출토 직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Bae, Soon-Wha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.10
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    • pp.24-34
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

The Type and Structure of Men's Belt in Early-Middle of Chosun Era (조선 초·중기 출토 허리끈의 유형과 구조 - 여산 송씨 출토 허리끈을 중심으로 -)

  • Son, Hee-Jin;Kwo, Young-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.672-678
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    • 2011
  • This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple (문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고)

  • 권영숙;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.6
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2001
  • This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

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A Study on the Near East Costume (II) -Osman Turkey Costume- (근동지역의 복식연구 II -오스만 터어키(Osman Turkey)복식을 중심으로-)

  • 오춘자;박길순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.1-27
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    • 1994
  • This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

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The Characteristics of the Fabrics Excavated from the Tomb of Dongrae Jung, Kimhwak's Wife (김확 부인 동래정씨(東萊鄭氏) 묘 출토직물 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.8
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    • pp.132-151
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    • 2009
  • All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

Demographic review of aesthetic surgery for patients with facial palsy

  • Min Young Lee;Yun Jung Kim;Young Seok Kim;Tai Suk Roh;In Sik Yun
    • Archives of Craniofacial Surgery
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.22-26
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    • 2024
  • Background: This study analyzed the demographic characteristics of patients with facial palsy who were treated using either dynamic or static procedures. This study aimed to compare the frequency of procedure implementation and age distribution between the two groups. Methods: This study retrospectively analyzed the medical records of patients treated for facial palsy at a single institution from 2014 to 2022. Among cases included in our study, dynamic procedures involved cross-facial nerve graft and latissimus dorsi or gracilis muscle flap transfer. Static procedures included gold weight insertion, canthopexy, browlift, and thread lift/static slings. Results: Among the 31 patients included in our study, eight (25.8%) incorporated dynamic techniques, and the average age of patients was 44.75 years (range, 24-68 years) with a male to female ratio of 1:4. The remaining 23 patients (74.2%) underwent a static procedure, of which the average age was 59.17 years (range, 23-81 years) which was statistically significantly higher than the average age of 44.75 of dynamic patients (p= 0.013). Regarding the timing of treatment after diagnosis, no patient underwent dynamic procedures more than 20 years after initial diagnosis. A greater diversity in the timing of treatment was observed in the static group. All patients who underwent dynamic procedures were treated using static procedures during the study period. Conclusion: Because aesthetics-based static techniques are typically quick outpatient procedures that can be performed under local anesthesia, our study shows that these are often preferred treatments for all age groups, especially for debilitated or older patients. Further research is required to investigate the long-term functional outcomes of these surgical techniques in a wider population of patients.

Fatigue fracture of different dental implant system under cyclic loading (반복하중에 따른 수종 임플란트의 피로파절에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Won-Ju;Cho, In-Ho
    • The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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    • v.47 no.4
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    • pp.424-434
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    • 2009
  • Statement of problem: Problems such as loosening and fractures of retained screws and fracture of implant fixture have been frequently reported in implant prosthesis. Purpose: Implant has weak mechanical properties against lateral loading compared to vertical occlusal loading, and therefore, stress analysis of implant fixture depending on its material and geometric features is needed. Material and methods: Total 28 of external hexed implants were divided into 7 of 4 groups; Group A (3i, FULL $OSSEOTITE^{(R)}$Implant), Group B (Nobelbiocare, $Br{\aa}nemark$ $System^{(R)}$Mk III Groovy RP), Group C (Neobiotec, $SinusQuick^{TM}$ EB), Group D (Osstem, US-II). The type III gold alloy prostheses were fabricated using adequate UCLA gold abutments. Fixture, abutment screw, and abutment were connected and cross-sectioned vertically. Hardness test was conducted using MXT-$\alpha$. For fatigue fracture test, with MTS 810, the specimens were loaded to the extent of 60-600 N until fracture occurred. The fracture pattern of abutment screw and fixture was observed under scanning electron microscope. A comparative study of stress distribution and fracture area of abutment screw and fixture was carried out through finite element analysis Results: 1. In Vicker's hardness test of abutment screw, the highest value was measured in group A and lowest value was measured in group D. 2. In all implant groups, implant fixture fractures occurred mainly at the 3-4th fixture thread valley where tensile stress was concentrated. When the fatigue life was compared, significant difference was found between the group A, B, C and D (P<.05). 3. The fracture patterns of group B and group D showed complex failure type, a fracture behavior including transverse and longitudinal failure patterns in both fixture and abutment screw. In Group A and C, however, the transverse failure of fixture was only observed. 4. The finite element analysis infers that a fatigue crack started at the fixture surface. Conclusion: The maximum tensile stress was found in the implant fixture at the level of cortical bone. The fatigue fracture occurred when the dead space of implant fixture coincides with jig surface where the maximum tensile stress was generated. To increase implant durability, prevention of surrounding bone resorption is important. However, if the bone resorption progresses to the level of dead space, the frequency of implant fracture would increase. Thus, proper management is needed.

Scientific Study on Materials and Painting Techniques of Portrait of Sim Huisu (심희수 초상의 재료와 제작기법에 대한 과학적 조사)

  • Chang, Yeonhee;Yun, Eunyoung;Kim, Sooyeon
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.15
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    • pp.96-121
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    • 2014
  • Portrait of Sim Huisu is a seventeenth-century Joseon portrait of a meritorious vassal. The National Museum of Korea currently owns two portraits of Sim Huisu, which are the eldest son's family and by the eldest grandson of the family's second eldest son. Both were donated in 1980. Portraits were still in its original mounting, but the supporting silk had been damaged and stained in a flood. Conservation treatment was undertaken to restore the original style, and scientific analysis, such as, X-ray, XRD, XRF and Graff "C" stain, was conducted to study the materials and painting techniques. The support silk was found to be refined fibroin and a plain weave consisting of two weft threads and one warp thread. The lining papers were found to be bamboo fiber paper of first layer in China and Korean traditional mulberry paper in second. Various pigments were identified in the painting, including white lead, cinnabar, atacamite, ink stick, azurite, silver, and gold. The study also confirmed the use of the back painting, with colors such as white White Lead, green Atacamite, orange Minium, black Ink Stick, and yellow Dye. Also, it was found that stick ink or dye was used with white lead.