• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1162-1174
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• 2010

Excavated gold brocade, often shows signs of serious damage and contamination from environmental factors such as exposure to soil or human remains. Therefore, most of the conservation procedures are focused on the consolidation of the gold thread and on cleaning with water or organic solvents. Indiscreet cleaning using solvents could damage the gold leaf, which identifies the features of fabric. There is a need to develop cleaning protocols appropriate for relics through the careful analysis of the condition of the relics. This study finds the appropriate cleaning method for the excavated gold brocade. Four different cleaning methods, vacuum cleaning, kneaded rubber eraser cleaning, immersion wet cleaning, and absorption wet cleaning were applied to the excavated gold brocade. The degree of cleaning and damage were examined depending on the cleaning methods, changes to the physical condition (before and after cleaning) were also analyzed through the surface observation. Although immersion cleaning showed the best cleaning result, this method had a risk of damage to the gold thread. Absorption wet cleaning safely eliminated the various soluble contaminants and the rotten smell of relics. Kneaded rubber eraser was suitable for the excavated gold brocade fabric because it can be applied to selective parts, intentionally excluding some sensitive parts such as the gold thread. The vacuum cleaning method required special attention because of a possibility of suctioning off loosely attached gold leaf. Dual cleaning, the kneaded rubber eraser cleaning, followed by the absorption cleaning was the most effective method to preserve and clean excavated gold brocade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1778-1790
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• 2002

본 논문은 중세 동서 아시아 사이 의 직금금(織金錦;gold brocade) 장식적 교류에 대한 연구이다. 중세 직금금에 대해서는 선행 학자들이 기술적인 측면이나 디자인과 관련하여 논의한 바 있다. 그러나 동서 아시아 직금금의 기술적 및 장식 적 교류와 관련된 연구는 진행 된 바가 없다. 특히 한국에 보존되어 있는 고려시대 의 직금금은 다른 나라의 직금금과 비교하여 연구되어 있지 않다 따라서 본 논문에서는 한국에 보존되어 있는 고려시대 직금금을 포함한 동서 아시아 직금금의 장식적 교류에 대하여 연구하고자 하였다. 본 논문은 한국의 직금금을 포함한 동아시아의 직금금 21점과 서아시아의 직금금 37점을 연구대상으로 하였으며, 이들 동서아시아의 직금금 각각을 그 장식적 특성에 따라 분류하였고 동서 아시아 직금금 사이에 교류된 문양과 패턴의 장식적 특성에 대하여 논의하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.82-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.115-126
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• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.151-160
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• 2002

This study implicates that the Danryoung(Formal dress) has been worn by the lady in Joesun dynasty. So far 8 cases of Danryoung excavated has been supposed to be worn by woman. The differences between man and woman's Danryoung is at the 'Somae(sleeve)'and 'Mu(gusset)'. Through those excavated Danryoungs, 'Somae' in Woman's Danryoung was straight and 'Mu' attached in outer layer of dress with rectangular form. From the excavated dresses, Ot-go-reum(strings) coloured violet and wider than man's Danryoung. It was also found as detached. Woman's Danryoung was decorated with gold brocade and excavated with belt. Through the dress and accessories excavated, it was estimated in mid-16C to early 17C. With this respect, it was implicated that Danryoung has changed its style to Wonsam after late 17C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 2004

This study focuses on the medieval Mongol costume called YosunOja. This dress consists of a blouse and a skirt, and some lines on the waist part. The purpose of the study is to analyse the structural characteristics of this costume, especially on the medieval remains from the tomb Mingshui in the district of Neimenggu. It can be analysed that this costume has three structural characteristics, which are the functional structure, sumptuous one, and the idea of Buddhism. The functional structure consists of the style with a blouse and a skirt, which gives enough surplus for the movement, the back-slash for the ease of the riding, and the dart in the front line which eliminates unnecessary surplus. The sumptuous structure is the many lines of the waist which show the maximization of the decoration, the extraordinary long sleeves, and the use of the expensive gold brocade which shows the wealth of the dresser. And also, the cutting of the fabric into the numerous segment may mean the medieval Mongols believed in Buddhism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

The shape of floral Pattern in the Period of Baroque could be divided single. bunch and vine. The style of representation was stylized, abstract and realistic. the most of style was stylized. The type of composition was fullness, independent and scattered. Floral patterns were shaped simple and complex and components of design could be classified into flower and leaf. flower and fruit. flower and band. bunch of flower, flower and geometry. flower and pot, flower and animal. flower and crest. Kinds of flower were tulip. common marigold, lily, carnation, small bel]flower. lotus, acandus leaf, pomegranate, strawberry. pine cone and abstract anonymous flower which were unfolded by repeat. Characters of floral Pattern were classical elegance, taste of royalty and lively and damask, velvet, brocade which made with gold and silver so, those were a very brilliant and gorgeous. Characters of design were illustrated plane style and stylization where developed arranged on front by repeat or repeat symmetric of vertical. Art, costumes and textiles in this era were a very rich and colorful. The result of study on Baroque's floral pattern will be used to develope a various textile design and chance to be adopted classical pattern into aesthetic value in our time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.88-100
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• 2017

This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.