• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2008

People in the Ancient Society of Korea liked golden earrings. The Royal Family or the nobility wanted to make more splendorous golden earrings in order to display their high-ranking positions. However, appearances or production methods of golden earrings differ a little by countries, for example, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje, Gaya, etc. Therefore, by closely examining articles discovered from tombs, we can know which country they were from. In particular, earrings of Goguryeo and Silla are similar to each other while those of Baekje and Gaya are similar. This would be closely related with political relationships between the two countries. The shape of golden earrings in the middle of the $5^{th}$ century A.D. is relatively simple. However, since the latter half of the $5^{th}$ century, golden earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea changed in the direction of long length or significantly splendorous surface decoration. Accordingly, we can estimate the period of production by analyzing golden earrings discovered from a tomb. In addition, the above trend was common all the earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea, which implies that each nation closely exchanged reciprocally at that time.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.81-92
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• 2015

Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2005

Suhainmyuldo(수하인물도) is a kind of picture which express a person under the tree and is known to be transmitted from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini(=Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India of from the 'Tree of Life' in W. Asia, and they had in fluenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way. For example, Jookrimchilhundo(죽림칠현도: seven wise men in bamboo forest), during Six Dynasty. The tree of life(arbor vitae, lignum viate), the origin of the Painting of figure under a tree(수하인물도), was spreaded in several regions around the center of Mesopotamia early, and them transmitted to Sasan dynasty of Persia, even to Islam, Byzantine, Romanesque, ancient East Asia. The mural painting found in the 4th Tongu Ogoe tomb, which was created after the 5th Tongu Ogoe tomb, used Obangsaek more than the 5th tomb painting did. (The term Obansaek refers to the five Korean traditional colors consisted of yellow, blue, white, red and black) The mural painting on the 4th Ogoe tomb employed distinct technique to depict an object in a certain color by painting the surroundings with different primary colors, making the painting look more exotic and mysterious.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.712-722
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.28-38
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• 2008

Balhae was an ancient Korean kingdom that existed almost 1,300 years ago. It was a dynamic time in the Korean history when the national strength was building up in terms of politics, economy and culture, thereby called as "Haedongseongguk, the powerhouse in the East". Balhae had dominated parts of Manchuria and the northern part of the Korean peninsula between the late 7th century and the 10th century, occupying the center stage of the northern Korean history. It serves as a window to the East Asia in the present as well as in the past. Yet, due to its geography spanning from the North Korea to Kilin Province of China to part of Heilongjiang Province and to the Littoral Province of Siberia, Balhae has been the center of historical disputes among neighboring countries that insist it is part of each of their own history. China argues that it was a prefecture of the Tang Dynasty, established by the Mohe, not a successor to Goguryeo, which is a China-oriented viewpoint of history. In addition, Russia recognizes Balhae as their first-ever medieval feudal state since the Littoral Province is now under their sovereignty. Therefore, the restoration of Balhae history is in line with the veritable establishment of the ancient Korean history. For this, it is necessary to embrace inter-disciplinary achievements and to continue efforts to adopt them rather than to blame the shortage of historical documents and the difficulty of the excavation of relics. If fashion is "a visual symbol" of our society, beauty culture serve as a mirror to reflect our civilization and culture directly or indirectly. Still, it is not easy to draw similarities by analyzing and comparing the attributes of various cultures and civilizations party because the essence of culture lies in diversity. Nevertheless, it is believed that cultural liaison as well as geographical liaison can be a medium to compensate for the limits of the foreign exchange history of Southeast Asia in proving the relationship between Goguryeo and Balhae, by examining and speculating beauty culture that reflect their period. It was confirmed by various documents regarding Goguryeo out of relics, historical sites and documents. Mural paintings showed how the people of Balhae wore and accessorized themselves. They also allowed us to speculate their way of living. As the contemporary historians can assert that Balhae is part of the Korean history thanks to the realism scholars in the late Joseon Dynasty, who rediscovered the Balhae history and conducted practical researches, it is expected that researchers who study beauty culture contribute to completing the restoration of the Balhae history by thoroughly examining our history, costume and beauty culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.13-34
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• 2008

In Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States there was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap(Trim), and Crown[Tree-typed Diadem and Tree and Antler-typed Diadem] was excavated from the tombs. Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. The Ornaments for Diadem in Baekje was excavated from the tombs is adorned with a arranged leaf-stems on either sides and the flower-shaped. They were distinguished with the original mode of Goguryeo and ancient Silla at the time. Tree-typed Diadem is five part in according to the Mountain(;山)-typed piled up. Only one Mountain(;山)-typed one in three stand-up ornament(I-1 type), and three step one in three stand-up one(I-2 type), modification one (I-3 type), three step one of four and five stand-up ones(I-4 type), and four step one of four and five stand-up ones (I-5 type). Tree and Antler-typed Diadem is three part in according to the step of Mountain(; 山)-typed and cross-shaped of the upper part. Three one of three step one of Mountain(;山)-typed and two Antler- typed (II-1 type), cross-shaped one(II-2 type), four step one(II-3 type).

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.91-102
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• 2019

Tibet has a long history and many traditions that feature colorful costumes. This study analyzes the similarities and differences in the use of multicolored stripes in the Korean Saekdong (색동: stripes of many colors) and Tibetan folk costumes. The analyses were done within the framework of Tibet's cultural and religious background and the characteristics of the region's traditional costumes. For this study, literature and photographs from books and the Internet that record the history of Tibet's traditional costumes were analyzed. The results show that the use of various colorful stripes was common in the Bangjeon (帮典) apron, one of the greatest costumes in Tibetan history. A Bangjeon is made of wool of multiple colors and has horizontal lines as compared with the silk Saekdong's vertical lines. In addition, they have a multicolored striped band on the sleeves which reminds one of the traditional Korean jacket with its Saekdong sleeves. However, these multicolored stripes appear in more parts of the Saekdong (such as the hemline and front collar) when compared with contemporary Korean costumes. Moreover, the multicolored bands are noticeable in several ornaments from the time, which suggests that Tibetans and Koreans were very fond of using multicolored stripes. Costumes from the Goguryeo (高句麗) dynasty indicate that Tibetans, like the Mongols and Manchus, were very similar to Koreans as they had multicolored garments and Paji pants in common.