• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.72-81
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop geometric patterns which can be reinterpreted in a modern sense and textile designs which can be commercialized in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb. Of 42 tombs where genres and portraits could be observed, the costume style of Goguryeo dynasty could be mainly observed in the tombs built in the 4th and 5th centuries. Since geometric patterns found in the portrait could be represented in a modern sense, this study was intended to develop the patterns of a necktie which is one of cultural products by applying geometric patterns in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century with many patterns distributed. The scope of patterns was limited to a square, a triangle, a circle, and a diagonal line which were the basic of geometric patterns found in the mural painting. The methods of study were literature review and empirical study. Adobe Photoshop CS3 was used to edit geometric patterns found in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century. By extracting a square(${\square}$), a triangle(${\vartriangle}$), a circle(${\bigcirc}$), and a diagonal line(${\diagdown}$) from edited images, predicted images were proposed before products were made. Finally textile designs were made through the simulation of edited design patterns in the necktie and handkerchief. This study will contribute to the positive effects on the development of cultural product designs applying the characteristic of geometric patterns and the construction of Korean image.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.32-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.54-68
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• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.7-18
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• 2006

A lot of relics were unearthed in the Shinchang-dong wetland site, which can help restore prehistoric life style, including construction tools such as wood doors, wood hammers, ax handgrips, sickle handgrips, wedges, awls, wood pillars and connection members, food vessels made of earth or wood and fish, shell fish, seeds and remains of weapons. In particular, a door was found in the site, which was measured at 110cm long and 37cm wide. If restored it will be 75cm wide. The door seems to date back as far as the 1st century B. C., which would be the oldest one ever discovered in Korea. This paper is intended to explore the implications of the door by investigating the environment of the Shinchang-dong wetland site bearing the relics intact, manufacturing techniques and times of manufacturing of the door as well as attributes of doors presented in the literature related to old time architecture such as Goguryeo tomb paintings and house-shaped vessels. It also intends to provide basic data for study of residential architecture in prehistoric times.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.183-199
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• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.280-301
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• 2021

첨차초각은 부재의 장식을 위한 그림에서부터 비롯된 것으로 여겨진다. 고구려 고분벽화에서 사용된 여러 가지 문양의 그림은 봉정사 극락전에서 보이는 덩굴문양 단청으로 이어진 것으로 보이며 봉정사 극락전의 첨차에서는 단청뿐만 아니라 하단에 연화두식을 새기면서 비로소 첨차초각이 시작되었다. 또한 봉정사 대웅전에서는 초기적인 덩굴초각을 가진 첨차가 만들어졌는데 이것은 부재 표면에 직접 초각을 새기는 것이었다. 이후 덩굴초각은 오랫동안 전통 목조건축에서 중요한 첨차의 장식 기법이 되었다. 정자각은 임란 이후부터 조선 말까지 지속해서 조영된 건축물로서 대부분 덩굴초각을 새긴 첨차를 사용하였기 때문에 여러 세대를 거치면서 변화된 모습을 볼 수 있다. 첨차초각은 처음에는 초각줄기가 주두를 기점으로 올라가는 모양(상향형)으로 시작되다가 종래에는 재주두를 기점으로 그 줄기가 아래로 내려가는 모양(하향형)으로 변하였다. 필자는 이러한 변화에 관심을 가지고 변화과정과 그 원인을 살펴보았는데, 상향형이 하향형으로 변화는 과정 중에는 방향성과 연관이 없는 새로운 초각의 연결 방식이 사용되었음을 알게 되었고 이 기간은 경종의릉과 인조장릉의 정자각이 지어지던 시기로 화반초각에서도 연꽃이 사라지기 직전의 과도기와 일치하는 것이었다. 또한 첨차초각의 방향성이 변한 원인으로는 이익공의 내부에 두 단에 걸쳐 새겨지는 덩굴초각이 주두를 기점으로 상하 양방향으로의 분리가 일어났는데 이는 초익공 내부에 하향형 초각을 새기는 계기가 되었고 변화된 초익공의 덩굴초각은 나아가 첨차초각의 방향에까지 영향을 주었을 것이라고 추론하게 되었다. 이 글은 2018년 투고한 「능원 정자각의 화반초각에 대하여」의 후속된 글로서 정자각에 있는 여러 부재 중 하나인 첨차라는 부재를 중심으로 한 것이기에 나머지 초각들을 완전히 이해하지 못하였다는 한계를 안고 있다는 점을 밝혀 두고자 한다.