• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제52권2호
• /
• pp.38-61
• /
• 2019

20세기 초반까지 독일 고고학에서는 유물 유적에 대한 객관적이고 섬세한 관찰을 중시하는 연구 경향과 어느 정도의 민족주의 혹은 자민족 우월주의의 입장에서 물질문화의 연구를 통해 과거의 민족 혹은 종족의 자취를 찾아 그들의 시공간적 범위를 확정하려는 시도가 공존하고 있었다. 2차 세계대전이 끝나고 독일이 동서로 분열된 이후 구 서독에서는 전통적인 독일 고고학의 전통을 계승하여 유물 유적의 관찰과 목록화, 그리고 편년과 분포의 확인에 집중하였다. 구 동독에서는 맑스주의의 사적 유물론에 입각한 역사의 합법칙적 발전 과정을 물질 자료를 통해 입증하려는 시도와 함께 과거의 문화유산이 갖고 있는 역사적 가치를 사회주의의 이념에 충실하거나 혹은 그 발전에 기여한 정도에 따라 평가하고자 하였다. 그럼에도 불구하고 구 서독과 구 동독의 고고학은 분열 이전의 독일 고고학의 전통을 상당히 공유하고 있었다. 분열 이후에도 고고학자들의 교류가 어느 정도 지속되고 있었고 구 동독의 고고학이 구 서독의 고고학, 그리고 유럽 고고학 전체에서도 인정받을 수 있는 의미 있는 나름의 연구 성과를 내고 있었다. 이러한 사실을 바탕으로 동 서독 고고학의 통합이 제도적인 측면에서는 어느 한쪽에 의한 일방적인 통합이었다는 한계에도 불구하고 양자가 비교적 단시일 내에 통합을 완성할 수 있는 계기를 마련하게 되었다. 한국의 경우에도 고고학 연구와 문화유산 보존의 측면에서는 공통의 연구사적 전통을 공유하고 상호 교류(공동 조사와 학술 교류 등)에 더욱 노력할 필요가 있다. 비록 맑시즘과 주체사상에 의거한 형식화된 해석이라 하더라도 이를 비판적으로 검토하여 필요한 경우 받아들이려는 열린 마음을 통해 남북한 고고학 및 문화유산 보존의 간극을 점차적으로 줄여나가는 작업은 더 이상 미룰 수 없는 과제라고 할 수 있다. 독일의 사례는 이러한 작업을 보다 효율적으로 진행하는 데 나름의 시사점을 던져줄 수 있으리라 생각한다.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권8호
• /
• pp.81-99
• /
• 2012

This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권4호
• /
• pp.138-150
• /
• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권4호
• /
• pp.65-81
• /
• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.