• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2018

As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.177-196
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• 1993

By cluster sampling measurements, passing months of pregnancy according to changes of pregnant women body forms. On the basis of the above mentioned data, sizes of pregnant women clothes were decided. The results are as follows. 1. By cluster sampling measurements, sixty-nine items of apparel were obtained during the three different periods of pregnancy. They included the mean and standard deviation of body form measurement and the minimum and maximum values (Chart 3-4). The results of these surveys made it possible to notice the changes of pregnant womens' physical characteristics, i. e., the increased physical proportions: frontal waist area, umbilicus width, abdominal girth, crotch length, the length of the nipple, and body weight and the decreased proportions: omphalos height, perineum dimension. There was little change in the rear parts of the body. 2. The analized results of principle factors for body form measurements by cluster measurements produced seven major factors for which the proper values were over 1.0. They were: form factor, pregnancy factor, posture factor, breast formation factor, rear body formation factor, and nipple to nipple breadth. 3. In deciding garment sizes of pregnant women, four different sizes were established; small, medium, large, and extra-large according to the third, fifth, eighth, and tenth month of pregnancy. The measurement value of each item was produced by estimate.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.35-45
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to segment the women's plus-size market by the types of store patronage, profile the segments, and examine the differences in satisfaction with clothing attributes and variety of plus-size apparels according to different segments. The questionnaires included the 7-point likert scales on store patronage, satisfaction, clothing involvement and body cathexis. Five body measurements were recorded by sales people, and the respondents also provided information on their weight, height and garment size in addition to demographic characteristics. Questionnaires were collected from 7 franchise stores in Seoul, Anyang, Daegu, and Cheonan during the months of February, 2011 to April, 2011. 210 questionnaires were distributed and 160 were returned. Excluding incomplete questionnaires, a total of 149 questionnaires were used in the final analysis. The cluster analysis based on store patronage identified four segments- major patrons of specialty stores, multi-channel users, regular store users, and internet shopping mall users. Significant differences were found among the four segments of women's plus-size consumers in terms of clothing involvement, age, occupation, education and clothing expenditures. Internet shopping mall user group were in overall less satisfied with several clothing attributes and variety compared to other groups.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.707-718
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a newly developed protective suit with the fragments of grenade. The protection efficiency should be strengthened upon the degree of wound. The fragment weight of the used grenade was measured and the kinetic energy of the maximum speed of the fragments in the field test was 137.7J and this could be the protective efficiency test by the multitude fragments in less than 0.031g of the M16A1. The panel inserted to the new demining suit has protection rate of 100% within the distance of 1m and sample II has protection rate of 100% only beyond the distance of 5m. The test showed that the protection rate on the protective suit of the existing garment was comparatively high, however, the protection rate of the sleeve part was very low. The new demining suit through the research demand some complementary measures to lower the temperatures in ear, average skin temperatures, and the temperatures-humidity inside the clothing for summer climate condition, It showed that 30 minutes of rest on the clothing was difficult to go back to the original condition. But in winter climate condition, there was no problem in the temperature, humidity, and comfort to go back to the original condition during the rest and was better in warmth.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.5-18
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to identify the architectural construction of Balenciaga's works. He was perfectionist in tailoring which was based on architectural thought, and couturier who could design, cut, sew and fit a whole gar-ment. Balenciaga has never followed any fashion trend but his own. He designed from within himself, according to his own sensitivity to fashion. Like Chanel, he mad clothes in which women can be comfortable, move in, and get on and off with a minimum of effort. He ap-plied radical shapes to flattering ends, for his clothes echoed movements and gestures, never determined them. He achieved the perfect harmony between the body and the garment, freeing the spirit of the woman within. Reflec-tion his respect for women, Balenciaga never contorted or restriced their bodies. He did not depend on hoops and petticoats to hold out the skirts of his evening dresses but on well-balanced, architectural construction. Therefore in order to identify the architec-tural consturuction, this study hypothesizes (1) the effect of mass and volume, (2) the ef-fect of weight and support, (3) the effect of complexity and simplicity, (4) the effect of line and rhythm etc. The architectural beauty of form in Balenciaga's works are especially based on simplicity and support.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.87-96
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• 2001

This study, dealing with obese bodily figures from the viewpoint of garment shape, was conducted with obese male children of late school ages(nine to eleven years old) to provide data for making ready-made clothing for obese children by directly measuring and analysing the bodily figure of the upper body of them. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. According to the basic statistics, for most of obese children the values of the measuring items by ages appeared to be large, and the results of comparison with the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea made in 1997 showed that the values were more large than those of standard physical conditions. 2. It was shown that in the correlation between items the upper breast circumference had a high correlation with all items, and the weight did with the following items such as circumference, height, width and thickness. 3. The results of the principal component analysis showed that six main components hand an explainable power of more than 75.60% for all materials. The first factor was thickness and obesity of the upper body, the second one the height, the third one the length of front and rear sides, the fourth one the width of neck, the fifth one the length of shoulder, and the sixth one the breast width and the wrist circumference.