• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.479-485
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• 2001

This study was to determine the effect of garment closures and layering systems on insulation, using a thermal movable manikin in cold weather conditions. The insulation values of ensembles with opened and closed features were measured, and those of four different layered clothing ensembles were tested while standing and while walking. Our research indicated that when there was an opening involved in design the system, insulation decreased; even a zip-out lining in the armpit affected little. If a light weight jacket and pants are put on over a fleece shirt and pants instead polyester underwear, the amount of insulation increase was 0.43 clo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.826-832
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• 1998

In order to understand the influences of wearing clothings with different thermal insula-tions when men were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, thermoregulatory responses were measured on 4 healthy female college students. Subjects rested wearing T-shirts, trousers, and socks called LC(total weight 541g) at 25$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5% R.H. and then exposed to the room conditioned in 18$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5$^{\circ}C$ R.H. with LC as it was(LC Type) or with T-shirts, trousers, socks, training wear upper garment, the training wear lower garment called HC (total weight 1368g)(HC Type) for 120 min. The results can be summarized as follows: 1) When subjects were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, decrease of rectal temperature was significantly smaller in LC Type than in HC Type. 2)Increase of heat production and weight loss had no significant difference between two types of clothing. 3)Internal thermal conductance was higher in HC Type and external thermal conductance was higher in LC Type. Therefore total thermal conductance was higher in LC Type than in HC Type. 4)Decrease of skin temperature was greater in LC Type than in HC Type. 5)Subjects felt colder with LC Type than with HC Type, but did not feel differently in comfort sensation between two types of clothing. It was suggested that less decrease of rectal temperature in LC type inspite of more dry heat loss from body might be ascribed to a shift of blood from the shell area to the core area originating in the vasoconstriction and the lowered internal thermal conductance. In conclu-sion, the importance of the state of internal heat distribution in the homeostasis seemed to be reaffirmed.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.291-301
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide the apparel manufacturers who have not been effectively preparing for worldwide trends of rapid increase in overweight population with fundamental data to develop updated domestic market through the findings derived from the actual dissatisfaction factors in purchasing of a garment by overweight body customers excluded in the apparel industry. The results of study are as follows : Considering the relationships with dissatisfaction factors in purchasing ready-to-wear according to the interests in weight control, there is a slight difference in the partial intention from degree of self-recognition of body figure and interests in weight control and motivation of interests in weight control. As a results, first, the more recognition of obesity, the more dissatisfaction with "product variety" and "purchasing decision". Second, the more interests in weight control, the more dissatisfaction with product variety in purchasing of ready-to-wear. Third, the more self-recognition of obesity as the motivation of interests in weight control, there is a high dissatisfaction with product variety.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.28-34
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• 2005

The purpose of the research was to examine the effect of three different levels of enzyme treatment on the physical characteristics and the end-use suitability of the lyocell fabrics made with four different types of commercial wood pulp. The appropriate enzyme concentration for obtaining an optimum as well as consistent physical characteristics and fabric hand trait was 3 g/l for the concentration levels tested in the present investigation. Weight loss was more affected by higher enzyme con­centration than other physical properties. H2 was least affected by enzyme treatment for all three physical properties and fab­ric hand. 5 g/l concentration exhibited little difference from 3 g/l in the physical characteristics, whereas the KES-FB values indicated a significant loss of fabric hand in most PHV s with the 5 g/l concentration level. Among different garment parame­ters, all four fabric types were relatively inappropriate for the men's slacks (MS) fabric due to the lower hand value of koshi required by the MS parameter. However, despite the relatively low koshi values, high fukurami values required for men's dress shirt (MWDS) resulted in the highest THV among the four garment parmeters. The four fabric types, which represent the usage of four different wood pulps, in general seem to exhibit a higher applicability to women's winter thin dress (WWTD) than women's winter suit (WWS) garment parameter.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.149-161
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of Tencel fabrics on physiological reactions of a human body and thermal comfort under the hot environment. The 3 females subjects in their twenties were selected and a wear sensation test of the subjects was performed with four experimental ensembles made of cotton and Tencel fabrics for the study in the hot environment(3$0^{\circ}C$, 70%RH). The resets of the test were summarized as follows: For the mean skin temperature, Tencel garments showed about 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower than that of the cotton garment. The temperature of the rectal was 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower for Tencel garments than that for the colon garment. In the form of ensembles, the order of rectal temperature of the subjects for both Tencel and cotton ensembles was 1>IV>III>II. In the body weight loss according to garment materials, Tencel had a lower and more uniform than the cotton Thus, it could concluded that if the perspiration took into account, garments made of Tencel can be more ideal than that of the cotton. The heart rate and oxygen consumption appeared to be proportional to each other. For the heart rate, ensemble TI and TII of Tencel were much lower than ensemble CI and CII. For whole enembles except for TIV, Tencel ensembles showed relatively better thermal sensation and comfort sensation than the cotton ensembles. In the fatigue sensation, the reactions of the subjects were “slightly fatigue” and “fatigue” for the cotton, but “neutral” and “slightly fatigue” for Tencel.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.117-126
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the sizing information of women's ready-to-wear pants as indicated on online retail websites and to suggest better sizing communication that can assist customers in making successful apparel size selections. We gathered size specifications and size reference information for basic straight pants from 34 online apparel retail websites. Although the Korean standard recommends labeling the body dimension-based sizing code and specification, most websites preferred to use various types of sizing codes. Body measurements were only used by a few websites, and garment dimension descriptions were the most common method to indicate product size. Many websites provided size reference information through customer review boards and fit model images, however, there was insufficient body size information to allow customers to infer the fit of their body type. When using the size guidance tools, the major data input points were stature and weight measurements. However, the waist measurements of pants sizes guided only by stature and weight values revealed inconsistent ease allowance for corresponding body size populations, especially in the overweight group. Based on our findings, we propose a more effective method of communicating the size information of pants online. We expect that this will contribute to the efficiency of online apparel product display and build a better shopping environment that satisfies both sellers and consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.172-182
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• 2018

The purpose of the present study was to quantify the thermal insulation of garments by item and examine factors influencing clothing insulation. A total of 769 garments in clo unit were collected and classified into 12 categories: blouses/shirts (95 items, BS), T-shirts/sweaters (62 items, TS), vest (23 items, VT), cardigans (23 items, CD), jackets/coats (75 items, JC), sport outerwear (including padding jackets)(48 items, SO), trousers (23 items, TR), skirts (56 items, SK), dresses (28 items, DS), underwear (150 items, UW), sleepwear (50 items, SW), and personal protective clothing (59 items, PPC). The results showed that clothing insulation was $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for the BS, $0.22{\pm}0.01clo$ for TS, $0.12{\pm}0.00clo$ for VT, $0.23{\pm}0.02clo$ for CD, $0.40{\pm}0.02clo$ for JC, $0.49{\pm}0.03clo$ for SO, $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for TR, $0.18{\pm}0.01clo$ for SK, $0.34{\pm}0.03clo$ for DS, $0.09{\pm}0.01clo$ for UW, $0.42{\pm}0.03clo$ for SW, and $0.56{\pm}0.03clo$ for PPC (p<.001). The most influential factors among the seven factors for thermal insulation of garments were clothing weight and covering area; however, the explanatory powers of two factors differed according to clothing categories. The covering area had more significant impact on clothing insulation in cardigans, jackets/coats, trousers, and dresses than clothing weight. Covering areas and clothing weight were the most influential factors in the following categories: blouses/shirt, T-shirts/sweaters, skirts, sleepwear and personal protective clothing. The garment weight was the most important factor for thermal insulation for the sport outerwear.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.