The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing/ Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis and ANOVA. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting height and upper chest circumference for upper garments and height and waist for lower garments. 2. Analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of height/upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications, 17 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Beijing men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 15 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $70{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 4%. Thus, a total of 60 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. 3. 16 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Shanghai men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 16 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $68{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 3%. Thus, a total of 56 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. For other reference measurements, grading measures were set for each type and body part, while the average measures of major body parts were calculated.
Composite draw textured yarns(DTY) and air jet textured yarns(ATY) with hollow PET filament have been used for making high emotional fabrics including light weight sports wear garments. This study investigated effect of hollow composite yarns and fabric structural parameters to the comfort properties related to the moisture and thermal transport phenomena for the composite fabrics made of DTY and ATY with hollow PET filament. Wicking property of hollow composite fabric was superior at the high pore size fabric and was not influenced by fabric cover factor. Wicking property of the fabric with ATY was better than that of the fabric with DTY. On the other hand, drying rate of fine pore sized fabric was shorter than that of large pore sized fabric and drying rate of high multi yarn fabric with low cover factor and small pore size was superior than that of hollow composite fabric. The pore size of the fabric was dominant factor in the air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric. High pore sized fabric showed high air permeability and thermal conductivity of hollow composite fabric was nonlinearly inversely proportional to pore size of the fabric.
The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.
This study shows the result of the survey conducted for male adults who had to use wheelchairs. The objectives of this study are to develop and improve the clothes for the disabled people and to make those garments put into practice. For this purpose, the survey was conducted at first so as to understand the situation of the disabled peoples wearing clothes and the garment demands. This survey is to suggest the suited form of the pants they want. The result of the study is as follows. 1) The average age of the subjects was 38.4 years old. They have used wheelchairs for 12 years on the average. Most subjects two limbs were paralyzed because of the acquired spinal paralysis. 60 percent of them were wearing the urine bags all the time. The average size of the pants they purchased was 39 inches, which means that their waist and abdominal circumstance were very big. 2) Regarding the situation of wearing habits, although the subjects usually purchased ready-to-wear, most of them are very dissatisfied with them. Especially, they considered the size as their main dissatisfaction. The main concern for buying garments was how comfortable and mobile they are while wearing them. They also needed outdoor garments. Lastly, they looked forward to the shop specialized in the garments for disabled people. 3) The functional pants for adult men using wheelchairs had the same zipper as that of general pants. The waist belt was made of rubber to reduce the pressure on waist and to cover 2 inches (5 cm) of waist circumference. Also it should be made to secure each button within the belt in accordance with size. Finally, it was designed as formal wrinkled pants that had pockets within the reach of hands when the disabled used wheelchairs.
The purpose of this study was to assess the feasibility and the effects of near infrared lighted garments on thermo-physiological responses in human body. Seven healthy adult men were recruited for this study. All subjects were informed the contents and purpose of this study. The experiment was carried out in a climate chamber of $32^{\circ}C$, 60%RH with 'Rest', 'Exercise' and 'Recovery' period. The experimental garments consisted of briefs, undershirts(sleeveless), nightclothes, T-shirts, knee-trousers and socks. Subjects participated in two experiments, one was wearing near infrared lighted garments(NIR-O), the other was wearing regular garments(NIR-X). The order of experiment was randomized, and subjects wore experimental garments before 24 hours in order to benefit by near infrared light. Measurement items included rectal temperature ($T_{re}$), mean skin temperature ($\bar{T}_{sk}$), sweat rate, heart rate, oxygen uptake and subjective sensation. The results are as follows: As to the variation of rectal temperature and mean skin temperature, value of wearing NIR-X was higher than value of wearing NIR-O, indicating a significant level of difference (p<.001). Sweat rate under NIR-O and NIR-X condition were 575.35 g and 535.75 g, respectively. Heart rate value of NIR-X condition was higher than NIR-O. Oxygen uptake measured during experiment was the higher in NIR-X condition with significant difference (p<.001). In the subjective sensation, the value of NIR-O condition was higher than NIR-X condition without significantly difference.
This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.
This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for investment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.
This study has its purpose in classifying the ways in which transparent materials appear in clothes creating a sample garment on this basis, and studying the formative characteristics of human body expression through materials. The study methods for this study are: first, related documents and precedent theses were researched. Second, the expression methods of transparent materials shown in the clothes collection were classified through objective research. Transparent refers to the lexical definition of being see-through, and the transparency of materials arises from the chemical components and physical characteristics of its raw materials. Transparent materials have been applied to clothes and expressed in diverse ways, revealing the beauty of the human body. Such expression methods of transparent materials are classified by the 'degree of transparency', 'presence of patterns', and 'range of use'. In clothes, transparent materials are depicted through 'revealing' which exposes the body, 'making seemingly lighter' which makes the body livelier, and 'overlapping' which overlaps the body with the structure and patterns of the material. Furthermore, transparent materials express the human body through having the beholder 'peep' into other parts of the body, 'imagine' areas which are covered by looking at the areas which are exposed, and through 'blurring' the boundaries or the shape of the human body, depending on the degree of transparency. As such, the study of the expression methods of transparent materials and human expression has its importance in that it explores the expression methods of materials and formative characteristics of human body expression through these methods.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.39
no.6
/
pp.877-884
/
2015
Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) is an eco-fiber with good elastic properties; however, it requires more detailed studies related to spinnability according to blending of various kinds of fibers. The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improved productivity with good quality; in addition, air vortex spinning was recently invented and applied on the spinning factory as the facility with good productivity and quality. More detail spinning technology according to the blending of various kinds of fibers on the air vortex spinning system is required to obtain good quality yarns for high emotional fabrics. In this paper, the physical properties of air vortex, compact and ring staple yarns using PTT/wool/modal blend fibers were investigated with yarn structure to promote high functional PTT that includes fabrics for high emotional garments. Unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of compact and ring yarns; in addition, imperfections were greater than those of compact and ring yarns, which was attributed to a fascinated vortex yarn structure. Tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns were lower than those of compact and ring yarns, caused by higher unevenness and more imperfections of air vortex yarns compared to compact and ring yarns. Vortex yarns showed the highest initial modulus and ring yarns showed the lowest ones which results in a stiff tactile feeling of air vortex yarns in regards to the initial modulus of yarns. Dry and wet thermal shrinkages of air vortex yarns were lower than ring yarns. Good shape retention of vortex yarns was estimated due to low thermal shrinkage.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.15
no.2
/
pp.151-162
/
2013
Studying employees' personality and relationship to their job would help to improve high unemployment and turnover rate in the current Korean fashion and textile industry. Based on personality which is an important influential factor, this research studied types of fashion and textile-related occupations and differences among employees' personalities related to the types. Using disclosed data from Korea Employment Information Service, 27 fashion and textile-related occupations were selected for the final analysis. Ward's Minimum Variance Cluster Analysis, MANOVA, and ANOVA by SAS 9.3 was used to analyze data. First, fashion and textile-related occupations were classified into three groups. Group 1 was mostly consisted of occupations related to manufacturing process of fashion and textile including mechanical technicians. Group 2 included occupations in garment designing and manufacturing. Designers and manufacturers including shoes, bags, and jewelry belong to group 3. Second, after observing differences in personalities among the three groups, group 1 answered that most of the personalities were not important for performance of their duties, group 2 said that only some of them were important, and group 3 regarded most of them as important. Specifically, group 1 considered precision as the most important personality but rest of the personalities not as necessary. It was revealed that personalities in relationship with other personnel such as sociality and leadership were not important. The results in this study will be used for analyzing whether job seekers' desired occupations in fashion field corresponds to their personalities and is expected to become a basic data of students' career counseling for educators.
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