• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.94-112
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• 2005

This study focuss on the futurism expressed in Paco Rabanne's works. Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. First, Light, one of the most important element in Paco Rabanne's fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Second, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne's fashion include surrealism, op art and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant-garde style represents the influence of surrealism. His experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with op art and kinetic art in the early 1960's which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Third, the characters of Paco Rabanne's works are the harmony of technology and the beauty oh machine by the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles and represent and movement,and the innovational creative methods, voluptuous beauty.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.219-226
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• 2001

This study analyzed the works, introduced in the collections of Thierry Mugler in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler were characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The formative aesthetic of eroticism were specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the cosmocorps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman. The sexuality was expressed through the design concept of opposing, extreme and conversion method. The primitivism was presented through the design concept of extreme method to express a returning to nature and a nostalgia and an adoration for the past. The pieces, expressed the fetishism, was presented through opposing concepts, such as a bondage and an extreme expose. It was indicated that the design concept of futurism was based on the future. The cosmocorps was expressed through the extreme method by using geometrical formative aesthetic and contrast color combination. The grotesque represented the mysterious and abhorrent futurism through the design concept of depaysment conversion and analogy.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.37-51
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• 2000

In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to examine the relation between the cyber environment and the contemporary fashion design by studying the formative feature characteristics of cyber character's fashion in the on-line game from the point of the contemporary fashion design. The research method is to understand the general concept of the cyber-space and characters and then is to contemplate characteristics and formative features of game character's fashion of the cyber-space mainly with cyber characters that were closely linked with features of the contemporary fashion design. As a result, the formative feature of game character's fashion of the cyber-space was to be classified into four categories; reactionism, mechanism, futurism, sensualism. First, reactionism takes traditional elements with symbolical and compromising form. Second, mechanism has a tendency of deconstruction due to its vitality and sense of velocity for objects through employing geometrical forms and new materials. Third, futurism deviates from the established framework. It makes use of high-tech materials and has surrealistic and futuristic features. Fourth, sensualism does emphasize sensual parts of the body and intends to convey aesthetic atmosphere through association of ideas. Character's fashion of the cyber on-line game is unnatural and artificial in its forms and wear for the lack of knowledge for costume's structure, and it shows just simplified design that accept extremely partial fragment of features in the contemporary fashion design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.62-71
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• 2006

These days there are plenty of studies that predict a future with rapid technological development. The development of new technology also has greatly changed the fashion industry. Materials were developed with a variety of techniques, and recently as the exterior and property of materials have been brought into focus, regarding images as a trend of fashion. The purpose of this study is to consider the kinds and characteristics of diverse future materials developed by high technological advancement and to present a new course for future materials by analyzing the formative characteristics of future fashion with future materials. The methods of this work are an examination by reference to theoretical study about the conceptions of futurism in fashion and a visual analysis of the materials in picture data. Another topic of study was the positive source of future fashion that actually applies to these materials. The study makes an analysis of future characteristics expressed in modern fashion, looking at the background and developmental course of futurism. It considers the conception, types and characteristics of diverse new flexible materials such as metal, non-woven fabric, Styrofoam, rubber, glass fiber and polished fiber. With all of these works, we would like to express the course for the development of coming future fashion and the potential of an appropriate union between sensitivity and science.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.19-31
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• 2015

Futurists put forward creative fashion by combining art and functionality. This led to a new aesthetic approach in how we view modernized industrial cities. Ernesto Thayaht, a futurist, introduced the "Tuta", which was simple and practical clothes. Tuta expressed the imagination and aesthetic values of Futurism. The characteristics of the Tuta were categorized into the following: Form, Colors, Materials, and Details. The results of examining its characteristics as follows: Tuta had a linear and simple planar pattern, which could be made with one cloth. The same modernized urban colors were used for the top and the bottom. Practical Materials, such as cotton and linen were used because they were easy to wash. Tuta excluded unnecessary ornaments, and only included functional details that would allow for comfortable movement. These design characteristics of Tuta revealed functionality, popularity, modernity, and innovativeness of formativeness. Tuta presented a new model of fashion in the early 20th century and completed the modernization of clothes. Tuta reflected the democratic and equal spirit of the era by innovating and overcoming the structure and form of conventional clothing.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.356-357
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• 2004

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제3호
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• pp.117-134
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• 2005