• 보존과학연구
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• 통권31호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2010

Paper cultural heritages experience chemical and physical deterioration due to various factors including preservation environments and the property of paper materials1). Thus, it is important to develop optimal preservation and restoration methods for the damaged paper cultural heritages. Currently, lining is a popular treatment for the restoration of paper cultural heritages in Korea. Since lining paper is a layer of paper directly attached to the inside of cultural heritages for protection, understanding of the preservation properties of lining paper is primarily needed in order to devise the better preservation methods. The main material of lining paper is the paper mulberry, but additives such as chalk and white clay is sometimes used to enhance the preservation properties of lining paper. To date, the properties of the functional lining paper containing these additives have been not fully understood yet. In this study, dry heating aging at $105^{\circ}C$ and biological aging by the Aspergillus versicolor and Penicillium polonicum for the lining paper, which is made from paper mulberry and the chalk, are carried out to evaluate changes in their preservation properties by these aging factors. As a result, it is found that the functional lining paper containing 25.1% of chalk can control the growth of fungi, while the paper containing 32.7% of chalk do not show any protection effect. However, the functional lining paper added by chalk is more aged than the lining paper made from paper mulberry by dry heating accelerated aging.

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.