• Title/Summary/Keyword: French Design

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Study on the Textile Design using Buttons on Western clothing in the 18th·19th Centuries (18·19세기 서양 복식의 단추를 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 연구)

  • Lee, Eui-Jung;Kang, Kyung-Ae
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.97-115
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    • 2022
  • The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

A study for varieties of image design-With the credits of cinema in 1990s- (영상 디자인의 다양성에 관한 연구-1990년대 국내외 영화 크레딧을 중심으로-)

  • 김인철
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.20
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    • pp.253-262
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    • 1997
  • The era of film has begun as a few media critics had anticipated already. The interestings of visual designers has asked to being with images in the processing and changing of varied image culture are different from the era of print media. It is reason to being with images that are generalizing of video culture. Now the film of images that made from popular advertisings and goods influenced by films has come. At first to being with image to visual designers need to understand films and to join making films. In films, visual designers make strengthen in part of credit titles. Credit titles are elements in films with the form of text to help understanding in the beginning and closing part of films. Credit title design has begun first by American visual designer Saul Bass as p pioneer position and have made to be varied film credit technics of computer. The advanced of technics have to think aspects of meaning of titles in the film of '007' movie series through 60s &70s. In 80s more technics have developed to being varied credits to films. And after all, in 90s there are films with almost varied titles. In Korean films ars less varied than that of Amenrican's and of French, in this study I hope to develope more varied Korean credit titles in near future.

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Historical Transformation of Types of Hand-Drawing and Their Hybridization in Landscape Architectural Design (조경 설계에서 손 드로잉 유형의 역사적 변천과 혼성화)

  • Lee, Myeong-Jun
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.45 no.5
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    • pp.71-86
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    • 2017
  • This work explores the historical transformation of manual landscape architectural drawings in terms of hybridization to uncover their inherent creative aspect. Landscape architectural drawing has duel functions; namely, scientific instrumentality and artistic imagination, which are relative, interchangeable, and transformable. These characteristics have been embodied in the forms of particular types of drawing, projections, perspective views, and diagrams, which are not so much clearly distinguishable as rather mutually complementary and hybridized. In particular, the pictorial views of plants in the forms of a perspective view or elevation were frequently hybridized to projection drawings of grounds and architectural structures, which is called planometrics. Particular drawing types have often emerged as suitable and thereby dominant forms, depending on the particular historical styles of landscape design. Sixteenth-century Italian Renaissance gardens and seventeenth-century French formal gardens were generally visualized in the form of projections. Eighteenth-century and early nineteenth-century English landscape gardens were frequently represented in a pictorial perspective view. In nineteenth-century America, different drawing techniques such as competition drawing, photography, and map overlay were specialized depending on their respective functions. Twentieth-century American modernists began to explore the diagram to deploy design strategies. In such transformation, however, the planometric, which considers both the ground plane and plant's frontal identities simultaneously and thereby is suitable to landscape design, was frequently used as a hybridization technique. In the mid-nineteenth century, a top view of plants replaced the planometric, and then, in the twentieth century, plants were no longer represented artistically, instead reduced to the forms of standardized flat symbols. The use of instrumental visualizations thereby gradually increased rather than the use of an imaginative representation for landscape architectural drawings.

Influence of Self-Construal on Choice of Overseas Travel Product Type

  • KIM, Young-Doo
    • The Journal of Industrial Distribution & Business
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.29-38
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    • 2020
  • Purpose: Understanding which product types of overseas travel (free independent travel vs. package travel) consumers will choose is one of the key issues of marketing and consumer behavior in travel agency management. Prior studies on overseas travel type preferences mainly focused on comparing regional differences (e.g., Asian vs. Westerner, or Korean vs. Australian, or Korean vs. Japanese, or American, French, Italian vs. Japanese) influencing the choice of overseas travel type. Another researchers focused on comparing cultural differences (e.g., individualism vs. collectivism, or individualistic culture vs. collectivistic culture), subcultural difference (e.g., acculturation; Koreans living in Republic of Korea vs. Koreans living in Australia), travel lifestyle, and socio-demographics (e.g., age, gender, income level, education level, marital status, occupation etc.). However, there are few studies that identify individual psychological differences (i.e., individual psychological differences within the same culture) influencing the choice of overseas travel type. Self-construal is a psychological factors that greatly influences choice behavior. The purpose of this study was to examine the role of self-construal as an antecedent variable influencing choice of overseas travel product type. Research design, data and methodology: To achieve the purpose of this study, the questionnaire survey method was used. Self-construal items composed of independent self-construal items and interdependent self-construal items. Product types of overseas travel were free independent travel (FIT) type versus package travel type. In this study, the correlation coefficient between independent self-construal and interdependent self-construal was nonsignificant. It meant that the relationship between independent self-construal and interdependent self-construal was orthogonal. Therefore it was analyzed that independent self-construal and interdependent self-construal separately. Reliability analysis, factor analysis, and logistic regression analysis (controlling gender and age) was used as the data analysis method. Results: According to the results of this study, the stronger independent self-construal, the more preference for the free independent travel type rather than package travel, and the stronger interdependent self-construal, the more preference for the package travel type rather than free independent travel. Conclusions: Self-construal is an antecedent variable influencing the choice of travel type. Travel agencies must consider the consumer's self-construal (independent self-construal vs. interdependent self-construal) before planning and designing overseas travel products.

Study on the Conservation and Restoration of Excavated Costume (출토복식의 보존.보수에 관한 연구)

  • An, Myung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.3 s.112
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    • pp.14-22
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    • 2007
  • This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

Rock Music Inspiration Represented in Hedi Slimane's Menswear Design (에디 슬리먼의 남성복 디자인에 나타난 록(Rock) 뮤직 영감)

  • Lee, Hae-Dong;Suh, Sung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.353-364
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    • 2016
  • This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

Estimation of the Overhaul Cycle Time for KTX Wheelset Bearing by RCF Test (RCF 시험을 통한 KTX 윤축베어링의 분해 정비 주기 평가)

  • Sim, Dae-Sop;Heo, Tae-Hyeon;Park, Young-il;Kim, Hong Seok;Shin, Ki-Hoon;Cheong, Seong Kyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.13-18
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    • 2016
  • KTX wheelset bearings have thus far been maintained in accordance with the maintenance system of French national railway company, SNCF. The overhaul cycle time (OCT) of KTX wheelset bearings is now 1.4 million km in mileage. This value, however, has not been validated in Korea that has much different railway environments with France. In fact, it is impossible to validate OCT of wheelset bearings directly because they are disassembled and cleaned only when some faults are detected. In this paper, the accuracy of the current OCT value was evaluated indirectly by investigating the effect of grease lubricants on the bearing life. Five grease samples (one new and four aged greases) were used in this study. Four aged greases of different conditions were obtained from four wheelset bearings whose mileages were about 0.3, 1.2, 1.3, and 1.8 million km, respectively. Each grease sample was then injected into the RCF (Rolling Contact Fatigue) tester and fatigue lifetime was experimentally estimated. In addition, the wt% of Fe in each grease sample was analysed. The experiment results reveal that the bearing lifetime is inversely proportional to the mileage of grease sample while the wt% of Fe increases with the mileage of grease sample. Based on the experimental results, it can be concluded that the current OCT value is appropriate for the first overhaul of wheelset bearings. However, further validation is required to determine the second and third OCT values.

A Study on the Influence of 18th Century Costumes in Contemporary Fashion (메트로폴리탄 박물관의 18세기 복식전시가 현대 패션에 미친 영향 연구)

  • Yun, Un-Jae;Park, Hyung-Ai
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.1 s.215
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    • pp.25-35
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    • 2006
  • This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

Types and Characteristics of Women's Embroidered Handicrafts of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 자수 규방공예품의 유형과 특성)

  • Kwon, Su-Yeon;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

Evaluation of Creep-Fatigue Integrity for High Temperature Pressure Vessel in a Sodium Test Loop (소듐 시험루프 내 고온 압력용기의 크리프-피로 건전성 평가)

  • Lee, Hyeong-Yeon;Lee, Dong-Won
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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    • v.38 no.8
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    • pp.831-836
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    • 2014
  • In this study, high temperature integrity evaluation on a pressure vessel of the expansion tank operating at elevated temperature of $510^{\circ}C$ in the sodium test facility of the SEFLA(Sodium Thermal-hydraulic Experiment Loop for Finned-tube Sodium-to-Air heat exchanger) to be constructed at KAERI has been performed. Evaluations of creep-fatigue damage based on a full 3D finite element analyses were conducted for the expansion tank according to the recent elevated temperature design codes of ASME Section III Subsection NH and French RCC-MRx. It was shown that the expansion tank maintains its integrity under the intended creep-fatigue loads. Quantitative code comparisons were conducted for the pressure vessel of austenitic stainless steel 316L.