• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.89-95
• /
• 2002

Object of this study presents marketing of new market segmentation as what I classify a social stratum, and analyze sense of value about each social class clothes and a taste, but is. The study way used a questionnaire as an investigation study way, and I did execution from September to October in 1999, and the investigation object picked up an any table with the woman university student who lived in Seoul and did investigation, and analysis targeted total 550 people. I used a measurement item of economic capital and cultural capital as a classification item of a social stratum and selected a dwelling, a kind of property, an annual salary of parents as an index of economic capital. Presentation held an occupation of parents, scholarship, culture activity as an index of cultural capital. It is social stratum structure an occupation arranges in 12 job categories by, for your reference, I do a social orbit of the P. Bourdieu which is a French sociologist and an index of inheritance cultural capital, and having set up eight phases of evaluation, and to do a Y, Cultural Capital with X with economic capital. Sense of value about clothes and attitude selected social value, aesthetic appreciation enemy value, authority a few value in sense of value of the 6 type that E. Spranger(1922) presented, and a proposal did type in 3 about clothes. The measurement way used a 11 question item and measured I with five phases of Likert-type criteria and executed factors analysis by main ingredient analysis and varimax revolution law. I named a more than inherent 1 with the liver which was social man, aesthetic appreciation enemy man, an authority enemy with a basis. The results are as follows : People of the group which they belong to the same social class, and there is have a similar taste and select a similar product, and scholarship and an occupation of parents please lay a taste of children and sense of value, a hierarchical difference of attitude too and do it.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.105-119
• /
• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Tunnel and Underground Space
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.165-174
• /
• 2008

Thermo-hydro-chemico-mechanical evolution of the radioactive waste repository and surrounding geological media is one of the key issues for the radioactive waste disposal. This article describes not only the basic context for the site selection but also a reasonable strategy for the repository related research based on the results of the French repository project carried out by ANDRA (National radioactive waste management agency). To have some alternatives for the determination of a preferable depth and geological media, it would be recommendable to establish a database system. The curing process of the fractures or microfissures in the EDZ (Excavation Disturbed Zone) during operation time has to be examined considering the evolution of the EDZ and the reversibility of the repository. It is prerequisite to carry out a feasibility study and to validate the design concept and design parameters in a properly constructed underground research laboratory (URL) in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.8
• /
• pp.49-65
• /
• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.5
• /
• pp.14-34
• /
• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.119-126
• /
• 2004

MMO RPG Online game as a new means of human computer interaction has been made rapid progress. Even though many kinds of online game have published, few games are being well received by its user. So we have a problem to be solved what is the fundamentals to attract game users. I will apply a game theory of the Roger Caillois who lived as an typical french thinker. Although Roger Caillois had never experienced a computer game since he died at 1978, his game theory was acknowledged that a game can be classified into four sections to grab the human's interest related with culture. Four sections of game were consisted of Ilinx, Mimicry, Alea, and Agon. The competition with people in game is essential to "Agon" that which stands on the basis of a pride when one is definitely superior to the others. In same way, "Alea" is that which stands on the basis of fortune, Mimicry is that which stands on the basis of simulation, Ilinx is that which stands on the basis of dizzy. In conclusion, I will explain that a game theory of the Roger Caillois is useful tool for deveoper to understand game fundamentals.d game fundamentals.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.6
• /
• pp.11-22
• /
• 2010

The main purpose of this research was to examine the linguistic characteristics of domestic men's formal wear brand name. Four linguistic characteristics of language type, combined structure type of language, word class, length of brand name were investigated in this research and also examined the difference between brand type. For sample selection, the 209 men's fashion brands were selected from '2009 Korea Fashion Yearbook' and then, 25 brands which could not collect proper informations about the brand name or naming were excluded. Among total 184 men's brand names, 66 men's formal wear brands were selected and studied. For data analysis, quantitative evaluation of the frequency and qualitative evaluation have been used. The result as follows.; (1) Seven language types were found in domestic men's formal wear brand names. English has been used the most, then followed by Italian and French. (2) For combined structure type of brand name language, the single word used the most, followed by separately combined word type, artificially combined word, and unified word type. (3) The most frequently used the type of word class was noun, and followed by phrase, adjective, and verb. In the noun type, 6 different types which expressed a person, concrete & abstract entity, place, acronym, and neologic were found. For phrase, only noun type was appeared, however, 6 out of 20 phrases were abbreviated type. All eight adjective brand names implied an attributive character of the brand such as 'Dainty' or 'Solus(Solo)'. (4) The long name used most and then followed by normal and short length of brand name. Looking by the number of syllable, 4 syllables appeared the most and then followed by 3, 5, 6, 2 & 7 showed the same rate, and 8 syllables. (5) The result which compared the difference according to each brand type showed a difference in its language type, language combined style, word class, but length of brand name.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
• /
• v.31 no.6
• /
• pp.545-556
• /
• 2022

Evaluation and optimization of tunnel wall convergence (TWC) plays a vital role in preventing potential problems during tunnel construction and utilization stage. When convergence occurs at a high rate, it can lead to significant problems such as reducing the advance rate and safety, which in turn increases operating costs. In order to design an effective solution, it is important to accurately predict the degree of TWC; this can reduce the level of concern and have a positive effect on the design. With the development of soft computing methods, the use of deep learning algorithms and neural networks in tunnel construction has expanded in recent years. The current study aims to employ the long-short-term memory (LSTM) deep neural network predictor model to predict the TWC, based on 550 data points of observed parameters developed by collecting required data from different tunnelling projects. Among the data collected during the pre-construction and construction phases of the project, 80% is randomly used to train the model and the rest is used to test the model. Several loss functions including root mean square error (RMSE) and coefficient of determination (R²) were used to assess the performance and precision of the applied method. The results of the proposed models indicate an acceptable and reliable accuracy. In fact, the results show that the predicted values are in good agreement with the observed actual data. The proposed model can be considered for use in similar ground and tunneling conditions. It is important to note that this work has the potential to reduce the tunneling uncertainties significantly and make deep learning a valuable tool for planning tunnels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.467-477
• /
• 2009

This study was conducted to investigate and analyze food related and space related elements of popular Vietnamese restaurants in Hong Kong to identify restaurant images related to food, to examine how Vietnamese traditions are applied to such restaurants, and ultimately, to get their implications for us. Luxury Vietnamese restaurants in Hong Kong tended to be located in major office buildings and famous shopping malls in the downtown area; therefore, they were highly accessible to foreigners. In addition, most Vietnamese restaurants were quite formal in size or atmosphere. The food-related elements of the luxury restaurants reproduced traditional menus, but the table setting and service generally adopted a formal Western style setting. The presentation of foods was also creative and contemporary, to suit international customers' tastes. Regarding the spatial elements, restaurants serving traditional menus had interiors influenced by the French colonial period, while those serving contemporarily adapted menus had interiors with simple contemporary images emphasized by Vietnamese traditional decorations. These characteristics allowed foreigners from diverse countries to access the restaurants without a sense of rejection. Casual restaurants were primarily exposed to many people on busy roadsides, but they tended to be inferior in terms of size and quality. Apart from size and price level, food-related elements failed to reflect Vietnamese unique traditional characteristics. The outward appearance consisted of basic construction materials (glass, chassis, and bamboo) instead of those representing Vietnamese architecture. Additionally, the interior of the casual restaurants contained traditional elements or objects more frequently than luxury restaurants, but they looked rather disorderly and lacked harmony. Overall, the image of casual restaurants was degraded by the use of cheap and low quality finishing materials and furniture. The results of this study may be useful for organizations promoting the Branding of Korea or businesspeople and designers promoting the globalization of Korean foods.