• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.670-683
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• 2006

Such trend offers new fashion designs as a formative art with creative spontaneity. The purpose of this study is to seek to work out fashion design methods whereby fashions can be developed into an art form embracing handicraft premium textures, geometric formativeness and traditional beauty so as to satisfy the individualist expression desires of modern people who pursue practicality, originality, and beauty of simplicity. This art form also allows new images to be expressed. The corresponding methods studied include the space and technique of patchwork that can create artistry and aesthetic functionality into differentiated levels of images, and geometric ion from Mondrian' works. Fashion designs based on patchwork technique and the characteristics of Mondrian's works reveal that the patchwork technique using diverse materials is an artistic technique with high handicraft value. This technique provides new value to traditional aesthetic materials of clothing, and that Mondrian's unique designs are very effective in developing new fashion designs because they provide artistry and unique effects to modern fashion expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.129-145
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• 2001

Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.111-121
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes, and analyze functions and characteristics of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 20C. This study will examine how the social backgrounds influenced on the changes of the functions of men's underclothes and how the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes in the second half of the 20C. In the early, the second half of the 20C, underwears of functions was continued to cleanliness and comforts. In the later of the 20C, underwears came to be seen as expressing male sexual power when it became body-conscious. By the changes of outer garments. underclothes changed the same size of proportion. In the late 1960's, the turtleneck type of shirts were copied by outer garments, and we understand that underwear can influence on outer garments. The ruffles of the 18th century reappeared in the 1960's. This reactionism of the late 20C tells us about the relation between social environments and underwear. So the social backgrounds influenced on the formativeness of men's underclothes. We understand that underwear can influence on outer garments and outer garments can influence on underwear, too. The important characteristics of the second half of the 20C were the remarkable resemblance of some styles to those of the Past and the occasional blurring of the distinction between underwear and outerwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.20-40
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the concept of surrealism and its expression technique and to develop creative and artistic women's coat design based on the analysis of various expression techniques of surrealistic artists and designers. To this end, literature review was done and design and actual works of women's coats were made. Surrealism was applied to fashion by Schiaparelli in the 1930s and it has constantly been applied by many fashion designers. The examples used in fashion were examined by shape of body parts or natural objects, metaphor and transformation of objects, position change and optical illusion. Based on this examination, motifs were drawn from paintings of Rene Magritte, Salvador Dali, Vladimir Kush, and Rafal Olbinski, who most inspired contemporary fashion designers with their works. The creative and artistic sense of five women's coats for 20's and 30's were designed using surrealistic paintings and fashion design expression techniques in a view of social problems. This study has a significance in that it expanded the expression techniques of fashion design and its field with original design which is inspired by surrealistic formativeness and expression technique with social criticism. It is also possible for this study to contribute to the development of fashion design if various designs are presented through grafting various artistic expression techniques onto fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.993-1004
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• 2002

This study was designed to examine the aesthetic characteristics of traditional wedding dress in Japan based on the internal$.$external aesthetics. They were extruded external and internal aesthetics based on pattern, color and fitting. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Decorative characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into three factors; fantasticism, movement, amusement. The fantasticism was based on the omitted pattern, painting gold. The movement was presented through irregular composition, fitting method, and silhouette. The amusement was expressed through the composition focus on a near view and pattern reminded of bring up the image. Fitting characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into four factors; grace, cubic effect, optical illusion, and tradition. The pace was expressed through the weight, formativeness, and layered look The cubic effect was presented through spacing of belt and H-line silhouette. The optical illusion was based on the straight line of seam, V-pleats and straight silhouette of fitting, and high-waisted belt. The tradition expressed through the unchanged form since Heian-dynasty. Internal aesthetics were characterized by the naturalism and the moderation. The naturalism was presented through the natural pattern which based on subjective feeling, indignity and position of wearing man, and color based on taste. The necessaries, or pressed artificial moderation, were expressed through the clothing silhouette by simplicity.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.52-59
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• 2009

In the study will look into how Baroque concepts are expressed in architectural space by analyzing the concepts of Baroque formative vocabularies applied in his architecture through a Spanish architect Paolo Portoghesi. Baroque is regarded as the philosophical thought that means enlargement toward diversity of a firm and fixed trend beyond the concept of a certain epochal form of 16th and 17th century architecture. In addition, it is from the free attitude and the intelligent and formal stereotype, and signifies common conditions more than one style in architecture history. Paolo Portoghesi proposes to express gestalt approach by Baroque precedent in his architecture through plasticity and geometric collision technique. Here, the expression of plasticity means the effect that gives formative rhythm to Baroque curved structures. That is the method to expand the formative possibility by changing various materials such as bricks, concrete, and timbers. Second, the geometric collision technique is the technique to constitute the flat form of overall space through the juxtaposition technique, Baroque symmetrical and homogeneous geometric manipulation technique. Accordingly, this study will overcome Inlimitation of formative monotony and expression of abstraction that modernism architecture has, and examine formative waste and conflicts which may be derived from impractical architectural languages of the concept of excessive disorder or the minimum form. This discussion is considered as the first step to tune balance between productivity and formativeness in modern architecture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.738-754
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• 2020

As a cultural feature of, the relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong are suitable design content for applying with sophisticated production and delicate molding laser cutting techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop modern bag designs using relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong of Baekje using laser-cutting techniques. First, the historical background and meaning of Baekje's cultural content were explored. Second, the principle of laser-cutting techniques were explored, laser-cutting techniques applied to modern fashion and bag design were examined, and bag design characteristics were analyzed. Third, based on prior research, the criteria for the development of bag design, from which eight bag design were developed that combine modern popularity and functionality utilizing Baekje cultural content and using laser-cutting techniques to apply the textile design developed by researchers in 2013 (modified to match laser-cutting techniques). The research results show that bag were clutch, tote, shoulder, and mini. Gold, silver, brown, beige, and navy colors were arranged, based on black/white contrast. Cow, lambskin, washed snakeskin, mesh, and Saffiano leather were used. For the pattern-applying technique, this study showed that a new digital technique, which is laser-cutting techniques could be combined with contemporary bag designs. Moreover, a bag design was developed that has a modern sense and functionality as well as Korean formativeness, which is significant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.705-715
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• 2020

The domestic fashion industry of the middle and late 20th century emphasized the importance of a standardized design process; however, the values of differentiated brand individuality have become increasingly important with the qualitative·quantitative growth of designer brands. Therefore, paying attention to designer individuality (or a differentiated element of a designer brand growing up in the domestic fashion industry) this study reestablished factors of the designer brand individuality. An in-depth interview was conducted with 13 designers and consumers for empirical analysis. In order to identify concepts of designer individuality based on the theory of the brand personality by Aaker along with precedent studies, the study devised a theoretical frame to explain a conceptual structure of designer brand individuality as well as reestablish its factors as the designer individuality, design and non-design factors through empirical research. Empirical research derived the designer individuality factors as an external designer image, designer taste, design philosophy and designer personality. Design factors were derived as concept, working process and method, style and formativeness. Non-design factors were also extracted as wearing experience, wearer image, lookbook image, fashion shows and exhibitions. It is meaningful that little empirical research has been conducted on domestic fashion designers who actually run designer brands and that this study helped understand designer brands through a new approach called designer individuality.