• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.91-100
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• 2000

인체에 대한 거부, 인체의 부재의 다양한 의미를 평면화된 의상으로 전달하고자 한 세 작품을 분석한 결과, 1) 손으로 가공한 종이 / 코트 평범한 / 평범하지 않은, 의도적인 / 우연히, 자연적인 / 인위적인 요소들의 대립을 통해 전통과 현대의 대림과 조화의 의미를 전달하고 있다. 2) 입체 /평면, 벽면 / 바닥, 상체 / 하체 둥의 요소들의 대립을 통해 인체에 대한 냉소적인 태도를 엿 볼 수 있다. 3) 안 / 밖, 하나의 드레스 / 덧입은 드레스, 완전한 평면/ 불일치의 공간은 전통적인 옷입기에 대해 새로운 방식의 옷입기를 제시하고 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권8호
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• pp.1242-1252
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• 2006

Many applications in computer graphics require complex, highly detailed models. However, to control processing time, it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models. Therefore, we have developed the notion of an optimal matrix to simplify the model surface which can then rapidly obtain high quality 2D patterns by flattening the 3D surface. Firstly, the woman's 3D body was modeled based on Size Korea data. Secondly, the 3D model was divided by shell and block for the pattern draft. Thirdly, each block was flattened by the grid and bridge method. Finally, we select the optimal matrix and demonstrate it's efficiency and quality. The proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly utilized in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. This can facilitate much better approximations, in both efficiency and exactness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제2권
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• pp.90-127
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• 2000

The Paper aims to survey and analyze the meaning 'Absence of body' from clothes as non-verbal communication medium. Two types of absence of body from clothes are clothes as object because of removing body, and flattened colthes to deny the body form. In results of analysis, 1)the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active/passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means social/private, body/clothing, relevant/irrelevant, subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited/free present the various way of waering. 4) tradition/contemporary is expressed by materials 5) enlarged clothes expresses the cynical attitude about body 6) inside/outside , one dress/layered dress suggest new concept to wear against traditional way of wearing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1825-1836
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• 2008

3차원 인체 형상에 적합한 의복 패턴을 제작하기 위하여 인체 형상을 평면전개하여 체표패턴을 얻기 위한 다양한 연구들이 진행되고 있다. 본 연구는 Grid method를 이용한 여성 상반신 앞면의 평면전개를 위하여 최적 그리드 기준을 결정하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. Grid method는 인체 형상의 표면에 커브를 생성하고 각 커브의 길이를 플로팅하는 원리에 의하여 3차원 형상을 평면전개 방법이다. 첫째, Young 모델과 Adult 모델에 해당하는 두 개의 3차원 바디들을 사이즈코리아데이타에 기초하여 모델링하였다. 둘째, 각각의 모델을 3차원 특징점에 의하여 shell과 block으로 세분화하였다. 셋째, 각각의 block은 다양한 그리드수의 조합에 의하여 평면전개되었다. 마지막으로, 가장 효율적인 조합을 선정하여 평면전개의 기준으로 제시하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.52-61
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• 2023

This study aimed to present data for the development of a shoe which is suitable for plus-size men (BMI 25kg/m² or higher) and to analyze the characteristics of each type of foot. The results of the study are as follows. To assess foot shape in relation to weight gain, participants were categorized into normal weight, overweight, and obese weight groups, according to their BMI indexes. Those in the normal weight group exhibited a smaller value than the overweight or obese weight group in all items. As a result of the cluster analysis, by type of foot, of the obese men category, men were classified into four BMI index groups: members of the type 1 group had a BMI index of 157 (18.4% of total sample), while for type 2 the figure was 213 (25.0% of sample), for type 3 it was 259 (30.4%), and for type 4 it stood at 224 (26.3% of total sample). Those from the type 1 group had thin ankles with narrow toes and flattened sides. Type 2 group members had thick ankles with well-developed outer feet and thick sides. Those within the type 3 group had medium-thick ankles with narrow feet but wide inner feet. Finally, those in the type 4 group had feet with a slanted side, as well as thick ankles, wide feet, and flat sides. Among these categories, the type 3 group members indicated the highest distribution.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.694-705
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• 2021

Forming perceptions and having experiences through digital media is becoming more common than having in-person relationships in digital media environment. This study, which was conducted when Fashion Week transitioned to a digital platform in 2020, focuses on fashion shows that are announced through social media. The purpose of the study is to explore how traditional fashion media change through social media and what their media characteristics are from the perspective of remediation, which has been suggested by Bolter and Grusin (1999) as the logic of change in the new media. The results of the case analysis in this study, based on the definition and logic of remediation outlined through a literature review, are that social media fashion shows are remediated from traditional fashion shows in the manner that they are represented, improved, refashioned, and absorbed. The characteristics of remediation expressed in social-media-based fashion shows were derived from repurposed video content, improved the elements of fashion shows to express the shows in various ways, expanded places within the fashion shows, and decontextualized and visually flattened spatial discontinuity, and from genre transitions and perceptual shifts. Social-media-based fashion shows are becoming a tool to renew the fashion experience and views of fashion and strengthen the authenticity of the brand by interacting with the audience, improving on the spatial limitations of traditional fashion shows, and diversifying fashion presentation methods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.