• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.91-100
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• 2000

As non-verbal communication medium, clothing has various form to express the artist's statement, for example, flattened clothing. On this thesis, three flattened clothing are analyzed, these works convey the meanings, 1) tradition/ contemporary 2) cynical attitude about body 9) new concept to wear

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1242-1252
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• 2006

Many applications in computer graphics require complex, highly detailed models. However, to control processing time, it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models. Therefore, we have developed the notion of an optimal matrix to simplify the model surface which can then rapidly obtain high quality 2D patterns by flattening the 3D surface. Firstly, the woman's 3D body was modeled based on Size Korea data. Secondly, the 3D model was divided by shell and block for the pattern draft. Thirdly, each block was flattened by the grid and bridge method. Finally, we select the optimal matrix and demonstrate it's efficiency and quality. The proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly utilized in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. This can facilitate much better approximations, in both efficiency and exactness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.2
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• pp.90-127
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• 2000

The Paper aims to survey and analyze the meaning 'Absence of body' from clothes as non-verbal communication medium. Two types of absence of body from clothes are clothes as object because of removing body, and flattened colthes to deny the body form. In results of analysis, 1)the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active/passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means social/private, body/clothing, relevant/irrelevant, subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited/free present the various way of waering. 4) tradition/contemporary is expressed by materials 5) enlarged clothes expresses the cynical attitude about body 6) inside/outside , one dress/layered dress suggest new concept to wear against traditional way of wearing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1825-1836
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• 2008

Many applications in computer graphics require complex and highly detailed models. However it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models in order to control the processing time. Thus, we aim to develop a notion of optimal matrix to simplify surface which can rapidly obtain the high quality 2D patterns flattening 3D surface as follows. Firstly, two 3D bodies are modeled based on existing Size Korea data. Secondly, each model is divided by shell and block for its pattern draft. Thirdly, each block is flattened by grid and bridge method. Finally, we selected the optimal matrix and demonstrated the efficiency and quality of the proposed method. This proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly used in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. It is expected that this method could facilitate much better approximation in both efficiency and precision.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.52-61
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• 2023

This study aimed to present data for the development of a shoe which is suitable for plus-size men (BMI 25kg/m² or higher) and to analyze the characteristics of each type of foot. The results of the study are as follows. To assess foot shape in relation to weight gain, participants were categorized into normal weight, overweight, and obese weight groups, according to their BMI indexes. Those in the normal weight group exhibited a smaller value than the overweight or obese weight group in all items. As a result of the cluster analysis, by type of foot, of the obese men category, men were classified into four BMI index groups: members of the type 1 group had a BMI index of 157 (18.4% of total sample), while for type 2 the figure was 213 (25.0% of sample), for type 3 it was 259 (30.4%), and for type 4 it stood at 224 (26.3% of total sample). Those from the type 1 group had thin ankles with narrow toes and flattened sides. Type 2 group members had thick ankles with well-developed outer feet and thick sides. Those within the type 3 group had medium-thick ankles with narrow feet but wide inner feet. Finally, those in the type 4 group had feet with a slanted side, as well as thick ankles, wide feet, and flat sides. Among these categories, the type 3 group members indicated the highest distribution.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.694-705
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• 2021

Forming perceptions and having experiences through digital media is becoming more common than having in-person relationships in digital media environment. This study, which was conducted when Fashion Week transitioned to a digital platform in 2020, focuses on fashion shows that are announced through social media. The purpose of the study is to explore how traditional fashion media change through social media and what their media characteristics are from the perspective of remediation, which has been suggested by Bolter and Grusin (1999) as the logic of change in the new media. The results of the case analysis in this study, based on the definition and logic of remediation outlined through a literature review, are that social media fashion shows are remediated from traditional fashion shows in the manner that they are represented, improved, refashioned, and absorbed. The characteristics of remediation expressed in social-media-based fashion shows were derived from repurposed video content, improved the elements of fashion shows to express the shows in various ways, expanded places within the fashion shows, and decontextualized and visually flattened spatial discontinuity, and from genre transitions and perceptual shifts. Social-media-based fashion shows are becoming a tool to renew the fashion experience and views of fashion and strengthen the authenticity of the brand by interacting with the audience, improving on the spatial limitations of traditional fashion shows, and diversifying fashion presentation methods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.