• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.47-63
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• 2022

This study aimed to examine the changes in women's fashion, focusing on the repercussions that bicycles had on women's life and fashion, centered on France in the 19th century, and then it examines the significance of the period to women's cycling clothing and its contribution to fashion. The research is based on literature and visual materials extracted from 19th century French newspapers, magazines, and posters. As a result of this study, the appearance of bicycles in the 19th century contributed to fashion as follows. First, the need for clothing suitable for outdoor activities promoted development of new designs with practical and functional features. Second, the clothing worn by female cyclists contributed to the introduction and propagation of new clothing, and pioneering wearing trousers. Third, the boom of bicycles in the 1890s led to the expansion of ready-to-wear items in department. The significance of the period to women's cycling clothing in the 19th century France is as follows. First, the era challenged customs and attitudes towards women's bicycle clothing and led to modernization. Second, a new and reasonable clothing design was presented that required a compromise to be accepted by the public. Third, although the clothing reform movement was not active in France, bloomer-style bicycle clothing was popular among fashionable women in Paris, revealing only its visual status as the capital of fashion in the 19th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.346-359
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine students' reasons and standards for purchasing their casual upper garments through online shoppin. A questionnaire composed of 26 items in five-point Likert type (14 items for measuring reasons, and 12 items for measuring standards for their purchase) was administered. The subjects were 422 male and female students attending middle schools, high schools and colleges located in the metropolitan region of Daegu. For a statistical analysis, a $3{\times}2$ two way ANOVA design (3 levels of schools: middle school, high school and college and 2 sexes: male and female) was involved, and Turkey's HFD multiple comparisons were made. The results showed that the reasons for students' purchasing casual upper garments through online shopping malls were as follows: quality, availability of discount coupons and points, other benefits such as special promotions, gifts, the easy return of goods and refunds, and also no trial of wearing shirts even at off-line stores. Significant differences in purchasing reasons through online shopping were found among middle schoo, high school and college students. There were also significant differences between male and female students mostly found in three variations of purchasing reasons: ease of availability of garments in contemporary fashion, convenient shopping without any restriction on time, and the decision to purchase with help from consumers' recommendations. Significant differences among middle school, high school and college students were found in the following standards for the students' decision to purchase their casual upper garments through online shopping: affordability, color, design, style, payment safety, and ease of maintenance (cleaning and ironing). Differences between male and female students were found to be significant in the following categories: affordability, fashionable, brand name, free delivery, product quality, coordination with other clothes, and consumers' recommendations on the products concerned.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권11호
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• pp.1519-1530
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• 2006

This study has surveyed and analyzed in 2005 S/S domestic men's street fashion by using the Web-SFAS system that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total of 270 men who were sensitive to fashion were surveyed around 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone was shown as follows. 1. The most interest in producing fashionable shape when they go out was in the order of clothes>hair style>shoes and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone was to meet with friends>watching movies>shopping etc. 2. T-shirts were most preferred as upper garments and as for bottoms, blue jeans were preferred. Black, gray, and white colors were most preferred and blue color was most preferred primarily due to the preference for blue jeans. The color image was proven mainly modem and light tone, comfortable and casual items were preferred. An active comfort casual image emphasized with activeness by coordinating comfortable T-shirts or shirts with blue jeans were most preferred in 9 areas. 3. A clear difference was confirmed in color by commercial area. Blackish color was most prevalent in Daehakro whereas simple color was mostly shown around Hongik University area. Bright and unique colors such as green and violate were dominant at Dae-Gu Dongseongro, and basic colors such as white and black were preferred in Masan Hapseong-dong and Changwon Sangnam-dong. Through the results of nationwide street fashion survey, the each commercial zone has unique characteristics in fashion trend even in the same city, rather than the regional difference in Seoul and local city.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.283-290
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shopping condition of Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. A depth interview was administered to eight consumers aged 10s through 30s who had shopping experiences at Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. The contents of interview were about the reasons of preference for Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall, the merchandise categories purchased, assortment, price, shopping environment, and service offered by Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall. The results of this study were as follows: The reasons of consumers' Dongdaemoon Shoppingmall preference were reasonable price, variety of merchandise assortment, easy catch of fashion trend, entertainment place, and opening hour at nighttime. The mainly purchased items were casual and fashionable clothes. Children's wear was mainly bought item by housewives too. The unique design, similar merchandises sold at department stores and new style in early adoption of fashion cycle were perceived as positive aspects, but copied merchandises and large quantity of same merchandise as negative aspects. The fixed price system was not trusted by consumers. Consumers' complaints about shopping condition were crowded pathways and shopping booths, the lacks of facilities such as fitting room, toilet, lounge area, sales persons' service, and difficulty of using credit cards. From these results, some implications for marketing strategies and practices might be suggested. In order to improve the design variety of merchandises, marketers and apparel manufacturers should make efforts by managing merchandise planning, production, selling, and promotion cooperatively. Fixed price system, acceptance of credit cards, and merchandise return/exchange service should be improved. The training the salespersons was the most important and basic step and easy way to get to successful business.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.161-173
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• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권8호
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.71-90
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of currently targeted consumers of the fashion enterprises. It also aims to assess the value of consumer-related variables that are related to market segmentation. In order to identify the characteristics of targeted consumers, the contents of brand concept and target of 143 brands for women's clothing, and 79 brands for men's clothing were qualitatively analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the demographic characteristics of both male and female included the desire to appear younger, and be more youthful in sensibilities than their actual age. In terms of occupation, male had more variety and concreteness than female. Male and female were above middle class, with an emphasis on being a part of the new generation, one that is young, free, healthy, and leisurely. Second, the psychological and behavioral characteristics of both male and female consumers included the benefit sought of the following: rationality, economy, practicality, functionality, individuality, fashionability, and aesthetics. Their fashion orientations were found to be practical, rational, fashionable, expressive of individual style, and aesthetic sensibilities. Their lifestyles were characterized by elements such as rationality, smartness, urban, active, healthy, young, leisurely, and stable. In terms of the spirit, female had a tendency to be intelligent, elegant, and sensitive, while also being self-reliant, self-disciplined, and unafraid of challenging situations. The male consumers had a tendency to be rational, progressive, passionate, and embracing change, with emphasis on legitimacy, honor, success, pride, and affluence. Third, the usefulness of consumer-related variables in targeting consumers was different according to male and female. These results show that there is a need for these variables to be looked at more closely during market segmentation process. This research may be used as base material in setting up the brand concept and the target market.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권8호
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• pp.1029-1043
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• 2013

The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.