• Title/Summary/Keyword: Fashion style

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Traditional Embroidery in India based on Bourdieu's Cultural Theory (부르디외 문화이론으로 살펴본 인도 지역별 전통자수)

  • Kim, Yi Rang;Kwon, Mi Jeong
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.758-769
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

Current status of the silk industry in Jinju (진주실크 산업의 현황)

  • Jang, Soohyun;Lee, Eunjin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.557-566
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    • 2022
  • This study aims to investigate Jinju silk companies, production items, and silk industry supporting projects from 2019 to 2021 in order to discuss the current status of the silk industry. The following are this study's methods: First, a list of Jinju silk companies that have been operating for the past three years (2019-2021) was prepared to investigate the current status of the Jinju silk industry. Second, an investigation was conducted into the representative products produced in Jinju over the past three years; this investigation was conducted using direct interview. Third, an investigation was conducted on the projects that supported the Jinju silk industry over the past three years, and the list of members of the Gyeongnam Textile and Jinju Silk Industry Cooperative Association-a facility of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, the Jinju City Hall brochure (2019), and the SMINFO(SMall business status INFOrmation System) were utilized for this purpose. The following are the results: First, Jinju silk companies are classified into four categories, namely weaving, dyeing, twisting, and designing companies. According to data from 2021, 83% (34 of 41) of silk companies were weavers. Second, the demand for solid fabrics has increased over the past three years. The demand for patterned jacquard fabrics in producing Hanbok and Western-style clothing has decreased. Third, support for the Jinju silk industry could be classified into five categories: support for the operation of silk research institutions, support for the diversification of Jinju silk, support for the promotion of Jinju silk, support for the operation of silk manufacturers, and others.

Fashion attribute-based mixed reality visualization service (패션 속성기반 혼합현실 시각화 서비스)

  • Yoo, Yongmin;Lee, Kyounguk;Kim, Kyungsun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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    • 2022.05a
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    • pp.2-5
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    • 2022
  • With the advent of deep learning and the rapid development of ICT (Information and Communication Technology), research using artificial intelligence is being actively conducted in various fields of society such as politics, economy, and culture and so on. Deep learning-based artificial intelligence technology is subdivided into various domains such as natural language processing, image processing, speech processing, and recommendation system. In particular, as the industry is advanced, the need for a recommendation system that analyzes market trends and individual characteristics and recommends them to consumers is increasingly required. In line with these technological developments, this paper extracts and classifies attribute information from structured or unstructured text and image big data through deep learning-based technology development of 'language processing intelligence' and 'image processing intelligence', and We propose an artificial intelligence-based 'customized fashion advisor' service integration system that analyzes trends and new materials, discovers 'market-consumer' insights through consumer taste analysis, and can recommend style, virtual fitting, and design support.

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Consumer Awareness and Preferences Regarding Apparel Sizing in Online Shopping (온라인 쇼핑에서 의류 제품 사이즈에 대한 소비자 인식 및 관여도 조사)

  • Eun-Jin Jeon;Ah Lam Lee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.25-34
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    • 2024
  • This study investigates consumer awareness and concerns regarding apparel sizing in the realm of online shopping. A survey was conducted with 450 women aged 18-59 who had engaged in online clothing purchases within the past year. It was observed that consumers shop for clothes online an average of 1.6 times per month, with those under 50 shopping more frequently. The importance of size is higher when buying pants than jackets, especially in online shopping compared to offline purchases. Key references guiding online shopping decisions encompassed product sizing codes, customer reviews, and garment dimensions, which were notably favored by consumers with significant concerns. Respondents opted for Korean-style sizing codes for jackets but chose inch-sizing codes for pants. While awareness of height and weight remains high, knowledge of specific body measurements crucial for clothing size design is lacking, suggesting inadequate communication of size information. Respondents prioritized specific areas for jacket and pants fit, yet the lack of comprehensive self-measurements beyond height and weight might present challenges in determining fit based solely on product dimensions. To address this issue, online retailers should display essential garment dimensions and visually suggest clothing sizes according to various body types. These findings provide valuable insights for online retailers to effectively present size information and lay a foundational framework for consumer size education.

A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s (1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.36
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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Business Application of Convolutional Neural Networks for Apparel Classification Using Runway Image (합성곱 신경망의 비지니스 응용: 런웨이 이미지를 사용한 의류 분류를 중심으로)

  • Seo, Yian;Shin, Kyung-shik
    • Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • Large amount of data is now available for research and business sectors to extract knowledge from it. This data can be in the form of unstructured data such as audio, text, and image data and can be analyzed by deep learning methodology. Deep learning is now widely used for various estimation, classification, and prediction problems. Especially, fashion business adopts deep learning techniques for apparel recognition, apparel search and retrieval engine, and automatic product recommendation. The core model of these applications is the image classification using Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN). CNN is made up of neurons which learn parameters such as weights while inputs come through and reach outputs. CNN has layer structure which is best suited for image classification as it is comprised of convolutional layer for generating feature maps, pooling layer for reducing the dimensionality of feature maps, and fully-connected layer for classifying the extracted features. However, most of the classification models have been trained using online product image, which is taken under controlled situation such as apparel image itself or professional model wearing apparel. This image may not be an effective way to train the classification model considering the situation when one might want to classify street fashion image or walking image, which is taken in uncontrolled situation and involves people's movement and unexpected pose. Therefore, we propose to train the model with runway apparel image dataset which captures mobility. This will allow the classification model to be trained with far more variable data and enhance the adaptation with diverse query image. To achieve both convergence and generalization of the model, we apply Transfer Learning on our training network. As Transfer Learning in CNN is composed of pre-training and fine-tuning stages, we divide the training step into two. First, we pre-train our architecture with large-scale dataset, ImageNet dataset, which consists of 1.2 million images with 1000 categories including animals, plants, activities, materials, instrumentations, scenes, and foods. We use GoogLeNet for our main architecture as it has achieved great accuracy with efficiency in ImageNet Large Scale Visual Recognition Challenge (ILSVRC). Second, we fine-tune the network with our own runway image dataset. For the runway image dataset, we could not find any previously and publicly made dataset, so we collect the dataset from Google Image Search attaining 2426 images of 32 major fashion brands including Anna Molinari, Balenciaga, Balmain, Brioni, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Cividini, Dolce and Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ermenegildo, Fendi, Giuliana Teso, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Leonard, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Max Mara, Missoni, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, and Yve Saint Laurent. We perform 10-folded experiments to consider the random generation of training data, and our proposed model has achieved accuracy of 67.2% on final test. Our research suggests several advantages over previous related studies as to our best knowledge, there haven't been any previous studies which trained the network for apparel image classification based on runway image dataset. We suggest the idea of training model with image capturing all the possible postures, which is denoted as mobility, by using our own runway apparel image dataset. Moreover, by applying Transfer Learning and using checkpoint and parameters provided by Tensorflow Slim, we could save time spent on training the classification model as taking 6 minutes per experiment to train the classifier. This model can be used in many business applications where the query image can be runway image, product image, or street fashion image. To be specific, runway query image can be used for mobile application service during fashion week to facilitate brand search, street style query image can be classified during fashion editorial task to classify and label the brand or style, and website query image can be processed by e-commerce multi-complex service providing item information or recommending similar item.

A Study on Ancient Korean Clothing and Ornaments Through Official Chinese History - focusing on hat and hair style - (중국정사(中國正史) 조선전(朝鮮傳)의 한국(韓國) 고대복식(古代服飾) - 관(冠)과 수발(修髮)을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Jin Seon;Koh, Bou Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.1
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    • pp.106-122
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    • 2014
  • This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

The Development of Gangnam and the Formation of Gangnam-style Urbanism : On the Spatial Selectivity of the Anti-Communist Authoritarian Developmental State (강남 개발과 강남적 도시성의 형성 - 반공 권위주의 발전국가의 공간선택성을 중심으로 -)

  • Ji, Joo-Hyoung
    • Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.307-330
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    • 2016
  • This article aims to explain how Gangnam, as a model and standard of compressed urbanization in South Korea, was created. Gangnam and Gangnam-style urbanization need attention not only because they contrast with Korea's urbanization in the past as well as urbanization in the West but also they provide an important model in contemporary Korea's politics, economy and culture. However, there are little studies of how Gangnam's peculiar urbanism was created. To fill this gap, this article will first capture Gangnam's peculiar urbanism as a material landscape and sociocultural lifestyle. Gangnam-style urbanism is (a) materially characterized by high-rise apartment complexes owned by the middle and upper class for dwelling and asset growth and (b) socio-culturally characterized by political conservatism, public indifference, competition over academic performance, appearance, and fashion, and nightlife. Then it will show Gangnam's archetype was created in a spatially and temporally compressed way in and through the spatial selectivity of Korean anti-communist authoritarian developmental state strategies: (1) anti-communism led to the diffusion and accommodation of the population through apartments in Gangnam in the context of its confrontation with North Korea and the fast-growing population of Seoul; (2) military authoritarianism excluded the low-income class and the urban poor from urban development; and (3) the developmental state adopted selective housing policy which treated construction companies and the middle class preferentially through exceptional zoning and price distortions, promoting the construction of apartment in Gangnam and its resultant uneven development.

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A Study on the Clothing Design of Giacomo Balls (발라(Giacomo Balla)의 복식디자인 연구)

  • 이금희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.6
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    • pp.1094-1105
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    • 1997
  • Balla within Italian art is characterized by the irreducibility of proteiforme work. He was aware of the possibility of abolishing all the barriers between major arts and minor arts and he placed dissemination of art in life: He applied his idea of a lively, joyous art to the world around him. His irruption of art into life appeared in futurist clothing. As a father of Futurist fashion he designed the futurist dress for men and women. It was invented a new type of dress. It was conceived as the realisation of his art-life-festivity and created with an mimic funtion of modern city. In futurist men's out-fit, he eliminated static lines, forms and colors and he used asymmetrical cuts and various strong bright colors. The colors was the determinent of factor of use of clothing. Women's dress was secondary to his reevaluation of the male dress but it was current with other European trend. He made dynamic patterns in textile design, which were the key point in the futurist design. The factors of the futurist textile design were abstract character, dynamic character and asymmetrical character. But the patterns was not related to the dynamic forms. His invention of the new style was simple form with dynamic patterns as a modernizing factor in clothing design.

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Influence of Sexual Attitude and Body Satisfaction on Buying Intention of Body Exposed Clothing (성에 대한 태도, 신체만족도가 신체 노출 의복의 구매의사에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Soo-Kyoung
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.2
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    • pp.105-114
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study wasisto investigate the influence of attitude toward sex and body satisfaction in the on interest, preference, and buying intention of body exposed clothing among female university students. The Susubject were 397 female students from 3 different universities in Seoul. The instruments of this study wereconsisted of response scale and stimuli. Thirty-four four items on a of 5-point Likert scale were used to measure the attitude towards sex and body satisfaction The stimuli were 6 types of different body exposed clothing style on line drawing. The results were as follow; 1. Most female students were liberal in sexual attitude and had a high level of body satisfaction. Especially, younger students were more liberal than older students. 2. Designs with the greatest interest, preference and that were most interested in, prefer and had buying intention were Camisole, V-neckline and low-neckline designed clothes. 3. Attitude toward sexual value has a strong effect on interest, preference, and buying intention of body exposed clothing. And also ilneterest of body exposed clothing has more effect on buying intention than preference.