• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-114
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• 2009

In Honam province, the cultural prototype are largely unknown to the people, also the research on this subject are scarce, the artistic excellence, somewhat under evaluated, both in our country and internationally. It is imperative that we develop the modern design using this prototype. thereby apply it to many areas of cultural products. We should extend the dimension not only to the local festival but also to the mass production resulting in the commercial gains. The Unjusa Buddha festival for promoting the public relation would be greatly benefited by using the concept of the temple, the local prototype, by which we expect to create a ingenious textile design pattern, coinciding with the main purpose of this study. The ancient material around Unjusa come to be the subject of our textile design by way of selecting the most remarkable ones of heritage among the materials of Unjusa. In the long run, the harmonious contrast of both traditional and modern image were sought in this study. Designed patterns were edited using Adobe Photoshop CS3, a multi-purpose graphic program and were simulated in the towel for visual presentation. The design is of two kinds, the one is of the free style using combinations of reclining Buddha, stone Buddha, stone pagoda, and geometric patterns freely not to be standardized. The other one is mixing of lotus pattern, reclining Buddha, and geometric patterns. These designs were applied delicately on the towel, necktie and handkerchief, and the various colors were suggested by the 6 color ways. The brilliance of our traditional cultural property should be noted by these designs and I hope that this study would be a help to develop our cultural prototype and make a product of using the outstanding heritage.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.2 s.70
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• pp.41-52
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• 2007

Today, many pregnant women also advance up the business ladder and remain very active. They are consequently increasingly aware of the clothes they can wear. Despite these social changes, maternity wear has not been specially designed to satisfy the consumer's demands. From this, the purposes of this study are to investigate the current status of maternity wear and the apparent buying trends of pregnant women through a customers' opinion survey and interviews for the future maternity markets. In summary, the survey and interviews illustrate some important points which are that: Firstly, not all pregnant women buy maternity wear. Some pregnant women said they couldn't find enough difference in maternity wear prices even though they would like to buy some, commenting that maternity clothes were too expensive for such a short period of time. Also some already had maternity wear from a previous pregnancy, or had been passed on from friends and family. Secondly, on the other hand, many respondents were strongly concerned with style and quality rather than price because they agreed that there were not enough suitable maternity clothes for work and special occasions. Therefore some respondents would buy a maternity outfit for a special occasion. It also indicates that for a particular time, place or occasion like a party, wedding or other celebration, some respondents would buy a special outfit to make themselves feel good. Finally, according to the survey, the most important design concept is for wearable designs which change with the body during pregnancy; followed closely by designs which are able to be re-used when the pregnancy has finished. Nowadays, as recycling and saving resources are the biggest issues, if maternity manufacturers are encouraged to develop new products incorporating these new design concepts, more maternity markets will be developed to buy maternity wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is research on the characteristics of post-modernism expressed on western hair styles in the late 20th century. Therefore this thesis analyzed the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. That will re-illuminate the same beauty worth of same age as to accurate the concept of post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. And the last, criticizing the post-modernism design and that hair design, helping to find new trends. The method of this study was the literature research & analysis of visual materials focus on upper bust image that can know the relationship of modernism & the hair styles of that mage, and post-modernism & the hair styles of that mage. First, the literature research is composed of analysis of theses, magazines on art, clothing and cosmetology having the contents of 20th century western culture, art and hair styles. Second, the analysis of visual materials is composed of analysis of video films, slide films and photographs of books, magazines, and internet home-pages. Modern western hair styles, appeared after 1910's, is represented as a short cut & permanent wave. That express experimentalism, functionalism, and purism, that is same as the other art's trend of same age. Post-modern western hair styles, appeared after 1960's, also show the same trend with same age's. This summarized & characterized 8 categories; historical method, pluralism, negotiation, escape from the formality, recovery of humanity, ornament, connection with race, metaphor & symbolism. But post-modernism concentrating pluralism makes easy making low quality art and absence of criticism, so this thesis criticised it 5 categories; absence of ideas, absence of the social sense of responsibility, lost of one's characteristics, decline of skills, decline of worth of usages.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.561-574
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• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.862-879
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang's collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang's collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang's signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials' mixed and matched or made visually fun.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.313-326
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• 2018

Over the past few years, companies have started moving into specific niches in plus-size fashion. The purpose of this study was to verify the marketability of young plus-size clothes in the USA. Data were collected from female consumers aged from 20 to 39 who have experience of purchasing plus-size items. A total of 282 responses were used for statistical analysis. The research result is as follows. First, the obesity stress is affected more by the subjective obesity level than by the objective obesity level and by how people recognize their body types. Second, from an analysis of the factors affecting the shopping orientation of plus-size consumers, style consciousness, pursuing reasonable, emphasizing comfort, and body consciousness are found to be important factors. Third, even if responders are aware of their exact body size, they actively look for the correct size. Fourth, fit evaluation of plus-size products is based on the factors of size fit and movement fit. The respondents were unsatisfied with chest and arm measurements, which deviate widely by body type for tops. Fifth, the overall dissatisfaction with the plus-size market is attributed to the fact that the product assortment range from which to select styles is narrow, and trend reflection is low. Sixth, the respondents tended to avoid fabrics that make their body type more obvious, textures that give the impression of a larger body size, or stiff textures. These results show that the psychological and physical characteristics of obese consumers should be considered to develop products for the young plus-size market.