• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.65-76
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• 2000

The purposes of this study were to claassify of clothing-wearing motives, to analyze tendency of fashion in campus, and to propose fashion merchandising plans and marketing strategies of companies for female college students. Research had been done during 1 week each on April and October in 1998 and 1999. Sixty-two students in spring semester and 54 student in fall semester were surveyed and analyzed. Their grades and majors were not considered in this study. Fashion Diary had been written by students and then their statements were analyzed by the means of the qualitative data analysis. Following conclusions were obtained from this study. 1. Clothing-wearing motives were classified with 'group depending on daily work', 'group depending on image', 'group depending on body supplement', 'group depending on weather', 'group of fashion following', 'group depending on courtesy', 'group depending on mood', and 'group of unconcerning'. 2. The fashion tendency of the students were layered look and they preferred casual styles, such as round t-shirts, jean pants, and cardigans. The color of white, black, and gray were prevalent for top wear, and the color of blue, black, beige for bottom wear in both seasons. For shoes, color of black, brown, white were popular. For bags, black, blue, and khaki color were prevailed. 3. The proposals obtained from this study are as follows : 1) Production of clothing enforced functional and practical base is wanted for 'group depending on daily work'. 2) Designs considering body parts such as hip, arm hole, shoulder, and thigh are needed. 3) Utilization of new materials such as waterproof with ventilation, opaque (means 'not see-through'), antipollution finishing process are required. 4) Simple designs of clothing which could be performed by herself with various accessories. Thermochromic materials are wanted for 'group of fashion following'. 5) Diversity of semi-suit is required for 'group depending on courtesy'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.376-393
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• 2013

In modern society, culture is an important factor to form a country's image and identity and a representative content to generate revenue. Culture is a keyword to design life in the 21st century and has become competitiveness between countries. As a cultural content with international competitiveness, this study performed textile design development with the use of relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong, which is the tumulus of King Muryeong who was the 25th king of Baekje among Korean history. The developed design could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products such as clothes, scarf, neck-tie, and bag. The process for the design development was carried out as follows: As a first step, this study found basis as a cultural content with a global sense that could form the historical value of the Tomb of King Muryeong and gain global sympathy of people all over the world through literature reviews. As a second step, this study examined the current state that traditional Korean elements were used as a fashion cultural products. As a third step, this study analyzed the current state and problems of fashion cultural products using relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong through field survey. As a final step, this study planned the concept of design with the use of diadem ornaments, earring, sword, stone guardian animal, and bricks with lotus-flower design from the tomb of King Muryeong. And these developed 6 textile designs could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.43-55
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• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제6권10호
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• pp.163-173
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• 2006

섬유 패션 산업은 소비자의 구매 욕구를 예측하여 제품을 개발하는 경우가 빈번하며, 예측이 잘못될 때는 즉 소비자들이 특정제품을 외면하는 경우 할인판매를 통해 제품을 처리해야 하는 문제점을 안고 있다. 반면에 신속대응 시스템은 소비자의 욕구를 지속적으로 관찰하여 신속하게 제품개발 및 생산일정을 수립함으로써 불필요한 재고가 쌓이는 경우를 사전에 방지할 수 있게 한다 소비자의 욕구는 POS 시스템에서 창출되는 자료를 통해 수집 분석되고 이런 소비자의 선호도는 네트워크를 통해 실시간으로 관련 제조업자에게 제공되어 제조업자들이 소비자의 선호도에 부합하는 제품을 개발, 생산, 제공할 수 있도록 해준다. 본 연구에서는 신속대응 시스템의 주요한 목표인 신기술의 접목을 통하여 의류제품의 기획, 구매, 생산, 유통과정 상의 재고 수준의 절감 및 과정 소요기간의 단축, 의류제조업자와 소매업자간의 보다 나은 협조체계의 개발, 소비자의 욕구에 적절히 대응하는 시스템을 학생들에게 교육할 수 있는 프로그램을 개발하였는데 신속대응 시스템을 위한 섬유 패션 스트림간 상품 기획 프로그램을 개발하였다.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.217-231
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• 1990

The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.64-71
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• 2019

Climate change and global warming are the biggest challenges of the current generation. Every industry has contributed to the climate change and global warming. Even the apparel industry cannot avoid the criticism regarding fast fashion and its contribution to the pollution. The transition to the decarbonized economy is in progress. All aspects of business functions are influenced by climate change. Sustainable development and climate change are closely linked, and business plays the key role in addressing and finding solutions to the challenges of climate change. Luxury brands are the trendsetters and tastemakers. They are the leaders in the fashion industry and therefore responsible for improving on sustainability as well. Even luxury business cannot avoid environmental issues. The relation between luxury and sustainability is explored with the Burberry case based on the Triple Bottom Line (TBL) framework. There are various ways for luxury brands to excel in sustainability and affect other companies' practices. The companies can incorporate the concept of sustainability in their brand stories as part of the branding process. They can also improve demand planning accuracy and produce upcycled goods. Centering on Burberry's case, this paper aims to explore the current sustainable practices of luxury business along with its future direction toward sustainable development. Its contribution and directions for both researchers and business practitioners are discussed.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.300-311
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• 2024

Amid global environmental concerns, initiatives to adopt sustainable industrial processes have garnered significant attention in diverse sectors. Efforts have centered on utilizing natural resources as dyeing and functionalizing agents in the textile industry. However, the limited color fastness and functional endurance of natural compounds remains a substantial challenge. This research investigated whether ultrasound could enhance the finishing effect of natural compounds on cotton fabrics. Chestnut shell extract was prepared and applied to cotton fabrics using a pad-dry-cure technique, with concurrent application of ultrasonic power. Once integrated into the fabrics, the chestnut shell extract exhibited prolonged health benefits for users. The findings demonstrated that ultrasound treatment during the finishing process facilitated the diffusion of natural compounds from the chestnut shell extract into the fabric structure, resulting in a substantial enhancement of the finishing effect, notably augmenting the antibacterial properties of the treated cotton fabrics.