• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.75-86
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify consumers' use of information source, store image, and demographic characteristics by their lifestyle types. and to establish a strategy for marketing and customer satisfaction management in order to response actively to the change of consumer behavior and to survive in this boundless competition. Out of the adult females who visited any discount store from October 3 to October 13. 2001. 300 women who would understand the purpose of the survey and respond it. were given with the questionnaire. Finally, 245 questionnaires were returned and analyzed. The data were processed in factor analysis. group analysis. deviation analysis. Duncan. and cross analysis. with SPSS WIN 10.0. The results are as follows: 1. Life style were categorized into 4 groups: social service pursuing group, fashion change pursuing group. convenience pursuing group, cultural life pursuing group. 2. There were some differences in discount store consumers's use of information source about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types. 3. There were some differences in discount store consumers's store image about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types. 4. There were some differences in discount store consumers's demographic characteristics about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.137-158
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• 2005

Modernization of Korea had begun with the reformation of the Kab-o Reform in 1894, which the government had designed after the protectorate treaty with Japan in 1876. It had affected drastic changes on the formation and framework of a Han-bok by government and the main changes is found in creating new style of Gae-ryang Han-bok. During 1980's, the peoples were interested in traditional cultural heritage, and 'the campaign of wearing Woo-Ri Ot' prevailed in Korea to instill the radical sprit of Korean. A Han-bok, which was made at this time, has called a Saeng-hwal Han-bok. The purposes of this study are to defue the the words that are Han-bok, Gae-ryang Han-bok and Saeng-hwal Han-bok of meaning and characteristic based on the previous studies and historical materials and present a unified and historical opinion about Han-bok to the academic world and industry of Han-bok by the consideration. Han-bok is a traditional costume with a long skirt and long breast-tie based on the later Cho-sun and is emphasized a virtue and manner on it. Gae-ryang Han-bok is an improved Han-bok that is include with a Tong-Chima and Jeogori for making a movement and function better. Saeng-hwal Han-bok is originated by the movement of wearing Woo-ri Ot in 1984, is interpreted the traditional Korean beauty from the modem view and is a practice Han-bok for popularizing intodaily life. After investigating the 33 of previous studies, the characteristics and transitions of Han-bok are followed. First, the reason of fail about the reform of dress is a loss of traditional beauty. Second, the yes or no of the establishment of law about the reform of dress, it influenced on a reforming or wearing speed of costume. Third, after 8.15, a modem girl and girl student can not impact on a system of Korean women anymore because, the number of the group that means a high educated and active woman, was growing. So, the elevation of women's education matured the system of Korean women's costume. forth, western style clothes are popularized after the Korean War and it is set down in the system of Korean women's dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.135-158
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• 1994

The fashion industry of today is closely re-lated with the information activity. This study investigates now they take advantage of the fashion information by analysing some related fields including fashion design. Furthormore this study identify the factor which makes the design activity distinctive and predict and fu-ture trend in design. The purposes of this study through analysis are : to help find the way to facilitate the fashion industry and to develop the fashion merchandising in order to activate the re-cession of manufacturers and to improve competitiveness in the world market and to contribute to the academic achievement in the study of fashion merchandising. In the experimental approach the tasks of research are as follows: Research 1: The application of fashion infor-mation is discussed in terms of process and level. Research 2: The differences of the fashion design activities are captured on the basis of the characteristics of manufactures and fashion specialists and fashion information ac-tivities. The factors are identified which pre-dict and discriminate the results of fashion de-sign activities. The questionaire and interview were conduc-ted among women's clothing manufactures in Seoul and their fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development. The methods of survey were designed on the basis of theories developed so far and on he advice from the social scientists and fashion specialists. the methods were corrected and complemented through the 1st and 2nd preliminary investigations before their application For data analysis cronbach's a coefficient fre-quency percentage average standard devi-ation pearson's correlation coefficient were calculated and t-test F-test(ANOVA) Duncan's multiple range test regression and Discriminant analysis were conducted. The results of analysis throughout the experimen-tal studies were as follows: 1. The analysis of fashion in formation (1) the present application of information a. The source of information : Both the foreign and the domestic information came mostly from fashion journals magazines newspapers and other periodicals, the main source of market information was collected from the survey of popular items in recent years the data about the life-style of customers and their tastes for wearing were widely used as the information about consumers. b. The applicaton of information : The most widely used information was about fabrics. The foreign information was prefered on the whole. The domestic problems pointed out in this investgation were that the domestic journals showed the lack of specialty and the special organizations for fashion informatino were in urgent need. (2) The research of fashion information a. The various processes and levels of in-formation activities: Among the process of collection analysis and distribution the collec-tion process showed a good acheivement whereas the distribution whereas the distribution didn't. In levels of the systematic activities the acceptance of support and the utility of supported instruments the first indicated a high degree whereas the second showed lowest. b. The correlationship among subvariables : There was a significant correlation between the collection and the analysis process. The systematic activities revealed close relation-ship with the analysis process and the accept-ance of support with the distribution process. The close correlation was found between the utility of supported instruments and the analy-sis process. 2. The analysis of the fashion design activities (1) No significant differences were found in the design activities when the characteristics of companies were compared only. (2) According to the characteristics of fashion specialists the one with age experi-ence and high income showed rather good achievement but no significant differences were captured among sex department in charge title academic background education in abroad and field experience (3) The fashion information activities were strongly correlated with the design achieve-ment : The analysis process and the system-atic activity level had a great influence on the design activities. (4) In order to examine which cha-racteristics in (1-3) made it possible to pre-dct and discriminate the achievement in de-sign activities the Discriminant analysis was carried out. The results were as follows: the fashion information activities showed the highest discriminant rate. Next came the in-come level experience and age in that order Those four variables discrimated 37 from 50 who showed great achievement in design area (74%) and 51 from 83 in low achievement group (81%) Thus the total discriminant rate was 77.5%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.95-109
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• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.231-240
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• 2005

The social participation and economic position of the woman come to be high, they are rising to the market as a core consumer and trend inventor leading the fashion. So that, we have to recognize the woman with one axis of product development, it is necessary to the product development and the strategy which it will put woman oriented sensibility in product design. From this research, it reviews the backgrounds from social culture and the economic marketing sides through the digital product recently, it analyzed the features of woman characteristic designs which is embossed the product. Also it connected actual product development, it developed a woman oriented sensibility audio which reflected a woman's consuming trend, life style and the preference product style. It proposed the necessity of woman oriented product development ultimately and researched the product design strategy for the reflection of woman sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.175-206
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• 1995

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.